There is something universally likable about the aqua and red color combination... or as Bonnie & Camille call it in their new Vintage Modern collection: Sky and Candy Apple. Mix in Cream, Pebble, Melon and Pear and you have a delicious blend of nostalgic warmth and romance with a whipped topping of clean, crisp and trendy sophistication. Today's tutorial in our Kitchen Confections series for Moda Fabrics is a quilted table runner with a pretty patchwork center that mixes and matches some of our favorite designs from within the 40 quilting weight prints in this delightful new collection. It coordinates perfectly with our five other tasty tutorials: placemats and napkins from this week and an apron, oven mitts and toaster cozy to come.

Our thanks for Moda for sponsoring Kitchen Confections. Bonnie & Camille's Vintage Modern is available now in-stores and online. Check our our S4H Marketplace for some of our favorite online retailers.

Not only have we designed six lovely Vintage Modern projects for you to use to makeover your own kitchen or give as gifts, we've also created a matching set of recipe cards and gift tags. You'll be able to download these next week absolutely FREE, courtesy of Moda. And, at the end of the series, Moda will sponsor a generous Great Giveaway with fabric cuts and more. It's a yummy couple o' weeks here on Sew4Home.

Sewing Tools You Need

• Any Sewing Machine (we recommend the Janome Memory Craft 6600P)
• Quarter Inch foot (optional)
• Walking foot with quilt bar (optional)

Fabric and Other Supplies

Supplies listed below are for ONE table runner, which finishes at approximately 16" wide x 30" long.

• 6 cuts from the Vintage Modern collection by Bonnie & Camille for Moda Fabrics: specific yardage is shown below
  NOTE: You could certainly use fewer cuts, but the beauty of this collection is how marvelously it all mixes and matches, so we have given you the information for how to build a runner that looks just like ours.
• ¼ yard of coordinating solid; we used Bella Solids by Moda in Aqua
• ¾ yard of 45" wide lightweight, low loft batting; we used Warm & Natural quilt batting
• All purpose thread to coordinate with the fabrics
• Machine quilting thread, 50 wt
• See-through ruler
• Iron and ironing board
• Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
• Small, sharp scissors for appliqué cutting
• Fabric pen or pencil
• Straight pins
• Adhesive dots or masking tape
• Temporary spray adhesive (one option for basting)
• Hand sewing needle and contrasting thread (another option for basting)

Specific Yardage Notes

¼ yard of fabric 1: Floral Dot Stripe Candy Apple/55045-15

¼ yard of fabric 2: Floral Vintage Sky/55040-11

¼ yard of fabric 3: Floral Vintage Cream/55040-17

½ yard of fabric 4: Floral Hopscotch Pebble/55041-17

¼ yard of fabric 5: Floral Wish Sky/55044-11

¼ yard of fabric 6: Floral Snickerdoodle Candy Apple/55046-15

¼ yard of fabric 7: Bella Solids Sky/9900 34

Getting Started

Fabric 1 - Floral Dot Stripe Candy Apple:
Cut THREE 2" x Width of Fabric (WOF) strips

Fabric 2 - Floral Vintage Sky:
Cut FOUR 4½" high x 8½" wide rectangles

Fabric 3 - Floral Vintage Cream:
Cut ONE 8½" x 8½" square

Fabric 4 - Floral Hopscotch Pebble:
Cut ONE 18" high x 32" wide rectangle
Cut EIGHT 4½" x 4½" squares

Fabric 5 - Floral Wish Sky:
Cut TWO 5" x 5" squares

Fabric 6 - Floral Snickerdoodle Candy Apple:
Cut TWO 5" x 5" squares

Fabric 7 - Bella Solids Aqua:
Cut TWO 16½" high x 7½" wide rectangle

Low loft batting:
Cut ONE 18" x 32" rectangle

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

Flying geese blocks

1. Our patchwork center features four 'flying geese' blocks. Each block is made from one rectangle and two squares. When sewn, these pieces are transformed into a pattern of three triangles whose sewn shape resembles the flying 'v' of migrating birds. The good thing is, the quilting version of flying geese is much, much quieter than the real version. Take it from someone who lives in the flight path of hundreds of Canadian geese!
2. Find the FOUR 4½" x 8½" (Floral Vintage Aqua in our sample) rectangles and the eight 4½" x 4½" squares (Floral Hopscotch Pebble in our sample). Match up two squares with each of the four rectangles.
3. Place one square right sides together with the left side of the rectangle, aligning the 4½" sides.
4. Using a clear ruler, draw a diagonal line through the middle of the square from the upper right corner to the bottom left corner.
   
5. Stitch from corner to corner along the drawn line. Again using your clear ruler, measure ¼" to the left of the sewn seam and trim away the excess 'corner.'
   
6. Press the triangle away from the block.
7. Place the other 4½" x 4½" square right sides together with the right side of the rectangle, aligning the 4½" sides.
8. Using a clear ruler, draw a diagonal line through the middle of the square from the upper left corner to the bottom right corner.
   
9. Stitch from corner to corner along the drawn line. Again using your clear ruler, measure ¼" to the right of the sewn seam and trim away the excess 'corner.'
   
10. Press the second triangle away from the block to complete the 'flying geese' block.
    
11. Repeat to create the remaining three flying geese blocks.

Half square triangle blocks

1. Find the two sets of two 5" x 5" squares (Floral Wish Sky and Floral Snickerdoodle Candy Apple in our sample). Mix and match the sets so you have two pairs of two contrasting fabrics.
2. Place one set of 5" x 5" squares right sides together.
3. Using a clear ruler, draw a diagonal line through the middle of the layered square from the upper right corner to the bottom left corner.
   
4. Stitch ¼" to either side of the drawn line.
   
5. We used our Janome Quarter Inch foot to keep our stitching line a perfect ¼" seam. This foot has a flange, which you can run along the drawn line. Most other brands will have a similar foot.
   
6. When both seams are sewn, cut along the drawn line to separate the triangles. Press the seam toward the darker fabric (Floral Snickerdoodle Candy Apple in our sample). 
7. Using your see through ruler and a rotary cutter (or a quilter's square template if you are lucky enough to have one), trim the sewn square down to exactly a 4½ x 4 ½ square. You will be trimming off just a tiny amount. 
   
8. Repeat these steps with the remaining 5" x 5" pair of squares.
   NOTE: With directional fabrics, you need to mark the second set of squares with the diagonal line in the opposite direction to create a symmetrical set.

Assembling the center patchwork

1. Arrange the completed units as shown below. There are three rows, each row is made up of three units.
   
2. Sew each set of three units together to make one row. To do this, place the outside units right sides together on either end of the center unit. Pin in place, then stitch the two short seams, using a ¼" seam allowance.
3. Press your seam allowances in opposite directions row to row. Press row one towards the right, row two towards the left, and row three towards the right. This will help you nest your seams together and tightly match your corners.
4. When your three rows are complete, you can stitch them together. Working from the top row down, pin the first two rows right sides together. The most important thing to remember is to keep your seams in line with one another. It helps to place a pin in the seam
5. Remember when you assembled the rows, you pressed the seam allowances in opposite directions row to row? This now allows you to ‘nest' the seams. One seam is pressed in one direction, the opposing seam is pressed in the other direction, and they lay easily against each other.
6. Using a ¼" seam allowance, sew the rows together.
7. Your careful matching along the seams will create perfect points on the front. 
8. Repeat to assemble the final row in the same manner.
   

Finish the runner top

1. Find the two 16½" high x 7½" wide rectangles (Bella Solids Aqua in our sample) .
2. Place one of these rectangles on either side of the finished center patchwork, aligning the 16½" sides. Pin in place.
3. Using a ¼" seam seam allowance, sew the side pieces to the center. Press the seam allowance together and toward the sides. This completes the runner top.
   

Layer and quilt

1. Find the 18" x 32" back rectangle (Floral Hopscotch Pebble in our sample) and the 18" x 32" batting rectangle.
2. Place the runner back right side DOWN on your work surface. Layer the batting rectangle on top of the back. Layer the completed runner top right side UP on top of the batting. The backing and batting are cut slightly oversized to allow a bit of extra room for quilting.
3. Baste all three layers together all around the outer edge. You can use a temporary spray adhesive for this step or a long running stitch with needle and thread. We opted for needle and thread.
   
4. Attach a walking foot to your machine.
5. Channel quilt parallel lines, following the lines of the fabric. Our lines were 1" apart.
   
   NOTE: We used the AcuFeed foot on our Janome 6600P, you could also use a traditional Walking Foot with a Quilt Bar to keep your lines straight. Or, you could draw lines on the runner top in an erasable fabric marker and stitch along the drawn lines. Even with the drawn lines, a Walking-type foot is recommended to keep the layers from shifting. If you are new to straight lines quilting, check our our Guest Tutorial from Modern Quilting whiz, Heather Jones.
6. When the quilting is complete, trim away the excess batting and backing to match the runner top.
   

Bind

1. Find the three 2" x WOF binding strips (Floral Dot Stripe Candy Apple in our sample).
2. Place the three strips right sides together, end to end, along the 2" ends. Pin and stitch in place with a ¼" seam allowance to create one long strip.
   NOTE: For the red and white striped fabric (Floral Dot Stripe Candy Apple), we carefully placed our seams to match the stripe.
3. Fold the joined strip in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press.
4. Working from the front of runner, align the raw edges of the folded and pressed strip to the raw edge of the runner.
5. Start in the middle of one long edge, leaving a tail of approximately 4". Sew the binding to the runner, using a ¼" seam allowance.
6. Miter each corner. To do this, stop with the needle in the down position when you are  ¼" from the corner.
7. Pivot the fabric 90°.
8. Using the reverse button on the machine, back off the fabric
9. Turn the binding straight down at a 90˚ angle. This will create a 45° fold to the inside of the corner, and allow you to align the raw edge of the binding with the raw edge of the next side of the placemat. Re-start stitching at the point of the fold.
10. Stitch all the way around, stopping approximately 4" from your starting point.
11. Open out the binding and join the ends, measuring to fit.
12. Re-fold the binding.
13. Bring the binding up and over to the back side of the runner, covering the line of stitching. Press in place and pin as needed.
    
14. Stitch in the ditch from the front side all the way around.
    
15. Remove the basting threads if you used them to hold the layers together.

Hints and Tips

If you are new to quilting and/or binding, here are some other helpful tutorials with more information as well as additional photos:

Quilting Basics

Beautiful Baby Quilt

Butterscotch & Rose Diamonds Pillow

Butterscotch & Rose Framed Pillow

A Complete Step-by-Step for Binding Quilts & Throws

Beautiful Binding: Italiano Reversible Kitchen Placemats

Contributors
Project Design: Alicia Thommas  
Sample Creation and Instructional Outline: Michele Mishler

Other machines suitable for this project include the Singer 5500 Fashion Mate and the Elna 3230 .