Okay - true confession time. In school, I was a theater rat... always in plays and musicals, always taking artsy-fartsy classes, including "How To Mime" or, as I remember it, "How To Pretend You're Stuck In A Box And Look Foolish Doing It." It's true, unless you're Marcel Marceau, you look really silly doing mime. So... no mime today. But, we are still making a box. In particular, a boxed corner. This is a sewing technique everyone should have in her/his arsenal. The boxed corner creates space in something that would otherwise be flat. For example, in a tote bag, you have a lot more room to put all your stuff if you create boxed corners. Basically, any sewn corner can be turned into a boxed corner with a few simple steps.
If you sew two squares together, then turn them right side out, the square is still flat. If you were to stuff it with some filler, it would make a nice knife-edge pillow. If you want to turn your flat square into something with more dimension, you can add boxed corners.
We love the box corner here at S4H. Below are just a few projects made more appealing and functional thanks to their boxed corners.
The basic box corner
We always use a light colored fabric with a bright colored thread so you can clearly see the steps of our technique tutorials. You would use the fabric of your choice with coordinating thread.
In this example, we're assuming we’re working on a project that has sewn corners and is shaped like a square or rectangle. If you’re following a pattern or tutorial, the boxed corners (as well as the exact measurements) will be indicated.
- Place the fabric right side together.
- Using a straight stitch, and the indicated seam allowance, sew the side and bottom seams, pivoting at each corner. We used a ½" seam allowance.

- With the sewn fabric still right sides together, match the side seam with the bottom (or adjacent) seam to create a point or "peak." Place a pin in the seams to hold them together. It is very important that you exactly match the seams; that is what will make the lines of your finished corner look good.

- Mark the depth of the boxed corner with a fabric marking pen or pencil and a straight ruler, positioning your ruler so the depth is measured from side to side at the base of the "peak." Our boxed corner depth is 3” (more on how to determine measurements below).

- Sew across the peak on the drawn line. Be sure to backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam.
NOTE: Depending on the project you’re sewing, you may want sew across the peak two or three times to reinforce for added strength at corner. This would be an especially good practice for a bag.
- Trim away the peak to ¼" - ½" from the line of stitching.

- Gently pull apart the corner at the seamline to see the boxed corner take shape.

- Turn the fabric right side out to really see what your finished boxed corner looks like!

Cut-out box corner
As with many sewing techniques, there’s an alternate way to create a boxed corner. Some people prefer to cut a square from each corner, then bring the seams together to sew the corner. You get the exact same finish as above, just in a different way. You may find this to be a better approach to sewing a boxed corner with heavier-weight fabrics.
- Place the fabric right sides together on a flat surface.
- Measure, mark and then cut equal size squares from each corner. In our example, we cut 2" x 2" squares.

- Using a straight stitch, and the indicated seam allowance, sew the side and bottom (or adjacent) seams separately (because you just cut away the corner you would have pivoted at!).

- In the same manner as the basic box corner above, carefully match the side seam with the bottom or adjacent seam. Pin in place.

- Sew along raw edge of the corner, using a straight stitch and the indicated seam allowance. Be sure to backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam.

NOTE: Interestingly enough, you will sometimes see pockets shaped like this (with the two bottom corners cut out) except they use just one layer of fabric. Think about a cell phone pocket inside a bag; you need depth in the pocket for the phone... solution: boxed bottom corners.
Measurements
If you’re not following a pattern or tutorial that tells you the proper measurements, you will need to do some calculating to determine the size (or depth) of your boxed corner. It’s recommended you start with a shorter distance and go from there; you can always increase the size of box corner (especially if you’ve already trimmed away the fabric), but ya can't go smaller after you've made your cuts. As always, we recommend testing any new technique on scraps prior to starting on your project.
Basic box corner
With a basic box corner, the distance from one folded edge to the other at the base of the peak is the depth of the box corner. Remember, in our example above, we sewed 3” across the peak from fold to fold, which yielded a 3" box corner.
The farther away from the peak that you draw your line and sew, the deeper the box corner will be. Using a ruler to mark the stitch line will help you determine the depth, plus it helps you stay consistent on the other corner(s).
Cutout box corner
When you plan to use the cutout box corner method, you need to pre-determine the size of the box corner. The most important thing to remember is: the size of the square you cut away is half the size of your finished box corner. In our example above, we cut out a 2" x 2" square, which resulted in a 4" box corner.
The other detail to remember is seam allowance. You want to use the exact same seam allowance across the box corner seam as was used for your side and bottom (or adjacent) seam allowance.
As always, accuracy in cutting is key so the box corners are consistent in size.
A few additional helpful notes to remember about box corners
- The deeper or larger the box seam, the shorter or more narrow the project.
- The smaller or shorter the box seam, the less depth you will have overall.
- If you’re making a tote bag, make sure to create identical box corners on your lining.
Contributors
Sample Creation and Instructional Outline: Jodi Kelly







A Romantic Retreat with Rowan & Free Spirit Fabrics: How To Box Corners

















What a great resource, nice to know those two options are interchangeable. The cutout version always seems easier to me.
What a great tutorial! I always wondered how the corners always looked so nice and neat! The fabrics in this line are so fun and colorful!
I always struggle with boxed corners. This tutorial is exactly what I need!
I love learning how to sew more accurately, thank you for your teaching pages! I love all these fabrics, thank you for the giveaway! Here's hoping!
WOW! A great and informative article. Thanks so much!
Patsy Booher
Great tutorial! Things can look so complicated until someone shows you how easy it can be. tilleybl@aol.com
Thank you for such a great tutorial!
Just discovered the site and have found so much inspiration, and about 20 projects that I have to do immediately. I'm going to box some corners ASAP!
New to sewing: Thanks for the helpful tutorial!
Love these boxes!! Wait wait to make some! Thanks so much for all your wonderful tutorials!
Oh, the possibilities!!! I can't wait to try your techniques!
Love the patterns here and the instructions are so easy to follow. Thanks!
Great tutorial, this is used in so many projects!
This tutorial was so much help to me! Sometimes a technique appears so hard to do do! If you can have someone show you how, it is very do-able once you have that AH-HA moment!! Thank you for posting these instructions!!
boy, did this tute come at the right time! i'm making a totebag for my sister-in-law out of her son's air force uniform top. i'm lining it with an air force fabric as well. i've used one of the techniques in the past but not the other. sew4home always delivers the best info! thanks!!
I just love your sight so much. Yours is the first post I look for. Thanks for being so great. I have made many, many of your projects for myself and love one.
Perfect!
I love this project and the tutorial is well explained. I want to make a bunch of these!!!
This is great and resourceful. Only to wish you had it posted it earlier... lol.. Always eager to jump into patterns and new projects. I found online the cutest lunch tote for my son for work, Did not bother to check the persons pattern and needless to say., Well the measurements on the corners were off, so, I had to find out the hard way, Check always the pattern for boxed corners. They said to cut off 3 inches and really the sew line needed to be at 3 inches. Thank goodness I was able to deam the pattern and fix it, If you cut off to much like she said you can not put it back on. So, I just went up the side seams and made his lunch tote a little bit skinner to fix the problem. If the sew line is at three, then normally the cut line will be at 2.5, cause in home interior the seam is always 1/2 inch, Thank you for posting another great tutorial.
One quick question, I was just reading over this one more time after I posted this, It looks like your seam is only 1/4 inch, I was always taught on pillows hand bags ect.. that it should always be 1/2 inch because it holds the seam better in place for heavy usage and wear and tear. Please correct me if I am wrong. It is always good to learn something new.
@ TimelessKreations - as we mention within the article, with the first method you trim to 1/4" to 1/2" - if you feel safer at 1/2", you should use that. You'll also notice we recommended double or even triple stitching lines for reinforcement! On the cut out method, the key is that your diagonal seam allowance must match your side and bottom seam allowance. We used 1/2" which is pretty standard for bags and totes.
Thank you Liz, I wanted to make sure too. cause I saw that too, you said 1/4 to 1/2. Another question.,,,, is there a way to remove the bulk when you put two items together that are boxed? is there a secret. Example... I made my son's lunch box, the inner panel was fleece with insulbrite, and the outer was cotton with stabilizer, I used the boxed corner, 3.5 was the final sew with a 1/2 seam all reinforced seams. The bulk was very bulky, the lunch bag did look nice, but I was very bothered by the bulk. Would it have been better I used the outer alone with cotton and the stabilizer, insul brite and flannel on the inner? When I say bulk, I mean when I put the inside to the outside box: The corners seams and the side seams made a lot of bulk, is there a secret to keep them from bulking?
@ TimelessKreations - I don't have any super secrets on bulk other than to, as you describe, start with less-bulky fabrics. I'm sure you are already trimming away bulk within the seam allowance as best you can. I'm guessing that, indeed, the fleece would be the one to go in this scenario.
Very informative tutorial. Took me forever to figure out one time I did this. I will remember this tutorial. Thank you.
The one time I attempted boxed corners, it didn't turn out as I wanted. Thanks for the tutorial and guidelines so can adjust as needed.
Thanks for this - I have always made my corners by the cut out method (unless the pattern tells me not to) and I appreciate learning the other way. I now know that I can calculate how big to make the diagnol stitch line in order to make the corners the right size. Great pictures!
Love this tutorial! Thank You! I've never gotten my boxed corner 'just right' so hopefully I will now!
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