FSF-Sew4Home_Pandas(728x90)

Facebook Twitter Sew4Home RSS Feed Follow Me on Pinterest Instagram

Sew4Home

Baby Gifts: Pretty Bird Quick Trip Diaper Bag

Printer-friendly versionSend by emailPDF version

Click to Enlarge

Our smaller (and cuter) diaper bag isn't meant to supplant the full-size, workhorse of a diaper bag; you know the one I mean... the one that holds enough stuff to open your own nursery school. Nope. This one is perfect to grab and go for short jaunts out and about. It's still big enough, with pockets inside and outside, to hold the essentials: several diapers, wipes, a couple bottles, a special blankie or toy, even your own wallet and keys. The outside fabric is a designer cotton; the inside is the popular PUL waterproof fabric.

The finished bag is approximately 14" wide and 14" tall with a 6" x 14" bottom panel, and 6" side panels.

PUL (Polyurethane Laminate) fabric can be a little finicky to work with, but is a great option when you want a thin, lightweight waterproof layer. It's very popular right now with folks making their own diaper covers. These same people caution against the use of pins as they poke unnecessary holes into the PUL and reduce its effectiveness as a waterproof fabric. They suggest paper clips or basting tape. I totally get this for a diaper cover, which you really do want as leakproof as possible, but for our bag, we did use pins. Our construction is much more complex than a diaper cover, and there are points where matching is essential and so, therefore, are pins. Your lining will still be plenty water-resistant to protect against splashes and small spills, as well as the wet items that inevitably get tossed in.

If you experience skipped stitches on the PUL, it usually means you're using the wrong needle. We chose a #14 denim needle and had excellent results.

Click to Enlarge

Our thanks to Michael Miller Fabrics for providing us with the beautiful wonderful Pretty Bird from Pillow & Maxfield for this project. The incredible hot pink, vibrant lime and bright blue was a super fun combo for our bag, but the options available in today's designer cottons are nearly limitless. Part of the fun will be finding your perfect blend. 

Sewing Tools You Need

  • Any Sewing Machine (we recommend the Janome Skyline S5)
  • Size #14 denim needle for working with PUL waterproof lining fabric

Fabric and Other Supplies

Click to Enlarge

  • 1½ yards of 44-45" wide fabric for the outside of the bag: we used Pillow & Maxfield Pretty Bird from Michael Miller Fabrics in Pink Meandering Vines
  • ⅝ yard of 44-45" wide coordinating fabric for the inside facings: we used Pillow & Maxfield Pretty Bird from Michael Miller Fabrics in Pink Bloomies
  • 1½ yards of PUL waterproof lining
  • ⅝ yard fusible craft fleece
  • ¾ yard heavy-weight fusible interfacing
  • ⅞ yard light-weight fusible interfacing
  • 6" x 14" rectangle of extra heavy-weight interfacing (we recommend Timtex Interfacing Craft Pack
  • 2 yards ¼" elastic
  • All purpose thread to match fabrics
  • One swivel hook for keys
  • One 1" wooden button
  • See-through ruler
  • Wash away fabric marker
  • Scissors and rotary cutter and cutting mat
  • Iron and ironing board
  • Straight pins

Getting Started

  1. Download and print the Outside Pocket Pattern, Long Strap Pattern and Short Strap Pattern.
    IMPORTANT: These patterns consist of six, four and three 8.5" x 11" sheets respectively. You must print these PDF files at 100%. DO NOT SCALE to fit the page.
  2. Butt the pages together to create each full pattern. Do NOT overlap. Tape together.
  3. The two strap patterns print out and butt together left to right to form each piece. The pocket pattern is a bit different. Butt together pages one, two and three in a vertical column. Then, butt together pages four, five and six in the same manner to form a second column. Now, butt together the two columns to finish the pattern. You are initially working vertically to tape everything together, but your finished pattern will be a horizontal piece.
  4. Cut out each pattern along the solid line. Transfer the patterns' pleat and seam line markings to the fabric with a fabric pen or pencil.
  5. From the fabric for the outside of the bag (Pink Meandering Vines in our sample), cut:
    TWO 15" x 21" side panels
    TWO 7" x 15" bottom panels
    ONE 4" x 4" square for button loop
    ONE outside pocket, using our pattern
    ONE short strap, using our pattern
    ONE long strap, using our pattern
  6. From the fabric for the inside facings (Pink Bloomies in our sample), cut:
    TWO 3" x 21" facings
    ONE short strap, using our pattern
    ONE long strap, using our pattern
    ONE 3" x 4" rectangle for swivel hook
  7. From the PUL waterproof lining, cut:
    TWO 13" x 21" side panels
    ONE 11" x 27" panel for pleated pockets
    ONE 11" x 21" panel for flat pockets
    ONE 7" x 15" bottom panel
    ONE outside pocket, using our pattern but REVERSED
  8. From the fusible craft fleece, cut:
    TWO 15" x 21" side panels
    ONE 7" x 15" bottom panel
  9. From the heavy-weight fusible interfacing, cut:
    TWO  3" x 21" facings
    ONE outside pocket, using our pattern but REVERSED
  10. From the light-weight fusible interfacing, cut:
    ONE short strap, using our pattern
    ONE long strap, using our pattern

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

  1. Following the manufacturer's instructions, fuse the light-weight interfacing to the wrong side of the outside long and short straps. Fuse the heavy-weight interfacing to the wrong side of the two 3" x 21" inside facings. Trim the heavy-weight interfacing for the outside pocket as shown, and fuse it to the wrong side of the outside pocket.
    Click to Enlarge
  2. Following manufacturer's instructions, fuse the craft fleece to one of the outside bottom panels and the two outside 15" x 21" side panels.
    Click to Enlarge

Straps

Click to Enlarge

  1. Match each outside strap to its coordinating inside strap (Vines to Bloomies in our sample), right sides together. Align the pleat marks and all raw edges. Pin in place.
  2. Sew each pair together, using a ½" seam allowance, leaving the bottom edge open. Trim close to the stitching line all around.
    Click to Enlarge
  3. Turn right sides out. Press. Topstitch ¼" from the edge. Form pleats by folding on the marked lines and basting in place.
    Click to Enlarge

Front pocket and body of the bag

Click to Enlarge

  1. Following the pleat and the stitch-line marks you made on the outside pocket piece, sew the outside pocket to the PUL waterproof lining along the upper edge, using a ½" seam.
    NOTE: It is especially important the vertical stitch-line is correctly marked on your fabric.
  2. Turn right sides out and press. Top stitch ⅜" from the edge, forming a casing. Insert elastic into casing with ½" extra extending out each end. The pocket unit should lay flat.
    Click to Enlarge
  3. Place the outside pocket on one of the outside 15" x 21" side panels. The lower edge and short side of the pocket should match the edges of the panel. The opposite edge of the pocket extends beyond the panel.
    Click to Enlarge
  4. Pin in place from the short end back toward the marked vertical stitch-line and up toward the casing.
  5. Machine baste the pocket to the side panel. Start in the corner at the casing, stitch down, pivot at the bottom corner, stitch along the bottom edge, and stop at the marked vertical stitch-line.
  6. With your fabric pen pencil (make sure it's one that washes away or fades with exposure to the air because you are marking on the front of the project), extend the marked vertical stitch-line past the top of the pocket slant to the upper edge of the panel.
    Click to Enlarge
  7. Stitch along this marked line from the lower edge of the panel to the upper edge of the panel, backstitching across the casing to reinforce this point.
  8. Match the left side of the pocket with the left edge of the side panel, and pin in place. Form pleats by folding on the marked lines, and pin pleats in place.
    Click to Enlarge
  9. Pull the elastic until gathers form and the upper edge of the pocket lays flat against the side panel. Pin, and baste in place along the remaining raw edges of the pocket. Trim the excess elastic even with the edges.
    Click to Enlarge
  10. Lay the remaining outside side panel right side up on your work surface. It should lay in the finished direction - with the 21" sides top and bottom and the 15" sides left and right. Mark a vertical stitching line 6½" in from the left edge of the panel. Stitch along the line.
  11. Place the two side panels right sides together, aligning the 15" sides. Stitch along both sides, through all layers, with a ½" seam allowance, to form the body of the diaper bag.

Bottom of the bag

  1. Place the outside bottom panel with the fusible fleece wrong side up on your work surface. Fold under one short end of the remaining fabric bottom panel ½" and press. Place this fabric panel over the fleece, right side up. Align the unfinished edges. Baste the two pieces together along the three raw edges. The short side with the folded edge should not be basted.    
    Click to Enlarge
  2. The side with the folded edge (which forms a little pocket) is the wrong side of the bottom panel.
  3. With the body of the bag wrong side out, insert the bottom panel into the bag. Align the right sides of the bottom of the bag with the right sides of the bottom panel. Match the corner points of the front pocket to the 'front' two corners of the bottom panel, the match up the 'back' corners exactly opposite. Pin in place, adjusting as necessary and using plenty of pins to insure the panel sits in the bag evenly and square.
  4. Using a ½" seam allowance, sew the bottom panel to the body of the diaper bag, matching each side and clipping at the corners. Start and stop at each corner.
    Click to Enlarge
    NOTE: Take care to not catch the folded edge of the bottom panel in the stitching. You need this 'pocket' to be open to allow you to insert the stiffener that will create the solid bottom of the bag.
    Click to Enlarge
  5. Trim corners, and insert the piece of Timtex into the bottom panel pocket.
    Click to Enlarge
  6. Hand stitch the 'pocket opening' closed. Turn the diaper bag right side out.
  7. Pin the short strap to the side of the diaper bag with the pleated pocket. Pin the long strap to the opposite side.

Inside pockets from the waterproof PUL

Click to Enlarge

  1. Fold down ½" along one long side of the 11" x 27" PUL panel. Topstitch ⅜" from the folded edge to form a small casing. Mark the panel for pockets: space the first vertical line 8½" from the left and a second line 9" from this first line.
    Click to Enlarge
  2. Insert elastic into the casing with ½" extending from each end. The pocket unit should still lay flat at this point.
  3. Mark one of the 13" x 21" PUL panels for pocket placement, space the first line 6½" from the left and the second line 7" from this first line.
  4. Place the 11" x 27" panel with elastic over the 13" x 21" panel marked for pocket placement, both with right sides facing up. Align the first set of marked lines with the lower edges even, and pin in place.
    Click to Enlarge
  5. Stitch along the marked line, back stitching across the elastic.
  6. Align the left edges of the two pieces of PUL and pin in place. Pull the elastic from the left, adjusting the fullness to fit the pocket width. Pin the elastic in place. Create a box pleat at the lower edge of the pocket to accommodate the lower fullness. Machine baste along the side and across the bottom of the pocket. Trim excess elastic.
    Click to Enlarge
  7. Align the second set of marked vertical lines, keeping the lower edges even. Pin in place. Pull the elastic from the right, adjusting the fullness to fit the pocket width. Pin the elastic in place. Stitch along the marked vertical line, back stitching across the elastic. Create a box pleat at the lower edge of the pocket to accommodate the lower fullness and machine baste in place along the bottom edge.
    Click to Enlarge
  8. Finally, align the right edges and pin in place. Pull the elastic from the right, adjusting the fullness to fit the pocket width. Pin the elastic in place. Create a box pleat at the lower edge of the pocket to accommodate the lower fullness. Machine baste along the bottom and side of the pocket. Trim excess elastic.
    Click to Enlarge
  9. Place the completed inside PUL pocket unit right sides together with a 3" x 21" inside facing piece along the upper edge.
  10. Stitch together, using a ½" seam allowance.
  11. Press the seam toward the facing and topstitch ¼" from the seam. This completes the first section of the diaper bag lining.
    Click to Enlarge
  12. Fold down ½" along one long side of the 11" x 21" PUL panel. Topstitch ⅜" from the folded edge to form a small casing. Insert elastic into casing with ½" extending from each end. The pocket unit should lay flat. Mark the panel for pockets: space the first line 6½" from the left and a second line 7" from this first line.
  13. Mark the remaining 13" x 21" PUL panel for pocket placement, placing the first line 6½" from the left and a second line 7" from this first line.
  14. Place the 11" x 21" elastic casing panel over the 13" x 21" panel with both right sides facing up. Align the sides and lower edges, and machine baste in place.
  15. Align the marked vertical pocket lines on both pieces and pin in place. Stitch along these marked lines, back stitching across the elastic. Trim the ends of the elastic.
    NOTE: For this pocket unit the elastic acts as a stabilizer, but is not gathered.
    Click to Enlarge

Key hook, button loop, and completion of the lining

Click to Enlarge

  1. Fold the 3" x 4" rectangle of inside fabric (Bloomies in our sample) in half lengthwise matching the long sides (it is now 1½" x 4"). Stitch with a ½" seam.
    Click to Enlarge
  2. Turn right side out. Press, centering the seam on one side. This is the loop for the swivel hook. Insert the loop through the swivel hook and match the ends.
  3. Center the loop above the right hand pocket of the flat PUL pocket unit and pin in place.
    Click to Enlarge
  4. Sew the remaining 3" x 21" fabric facing piece to top edge of this flat PUL pocket unit, right sides together with a ½" seam allowance. You will be securing the loop as you sew. Press the seam toward the facing. Top stitch a ¼" from the seam. This completes the second section of the diaper bag lining.
    Click to Enlarge
  5. Sew the two PUL lining units right sides together at the side seams, using a ½" seam allowance.
  6. Sew the 7" x 15" PUL bottom panel into place, matching a seam to opposite corners of the bottom panel and a line of stitching to the alternate corners.
  7. Sew with a ½" seam allowance, starting and stopping at each corner. Trim the corners.
  8. Fold the 4" x 4" outside fabric square diagonally and stitch ¼" from the fold. Trim away the excess and turn right side out, using a safety pin or loop turner. Press flat.
  9. Find the top center point of the side that will be the ‘back' of your bag (the side without the pocket). Make a mark at this center point with your fabric pencil. Then, still using your fabric pencil, draw a short horizontal line along the ½" seam line.
  10. Fold your loop in half and pin it at the center point mark you just made above. Adjust the loop so enough of it extends past the seam line for the button to pass through easily. Don't guess. Test it with your actual button. Pin the loop in place.
    Click to Enlarge
  11. Stitch the loop down, running forward and backwards several times so your loop is secure and can stand up to lots of wear and tear. Trim away the excess.

Finishing

  1. With the body of the diaper bag wrong side out and the lining right side out, slide the lining inside the bag - so the two pieces are now nested and right sides together.
  2. Match up the top raw edges all around, aligning seams and corners of the bottom panels. Make sure the two straps are sandwiched in between bag and lining but the ends are hanging free. (You won't be able to actually see the straps because they are between the bag and the lining, but you just need to make sure they don't accidentally get caught up or tangled when you slip the lining inside the bag.)
  3. Using a ½" seam allowance, sew the lining to the diaper bag along the upper edge, enclosing the straps and the button loop in the seam. Leave about a 3-4" opening for turning the bag.
  4. Turn the diaper bag right side out. Push the lining down inside the bag, poking the corners of the lining's bottom panel into the corners of the bag so the bottom lays as flat as possible.
  5. Press, making sure the raw edges of your opening are pressed in so they are flush with the sewn seam.
  6. Topstitch around the top of the bag ¼" from the edge, closing the opening.
  7. Sew a button in place on the front panel of the bag above the outer pocket, matching its position to the button loop.
  8. Tie the two straps together with a square knot, adjusting to your preferred length.
     
    Click to Enlarge

Contributors
Project Design: Alicia Thommas  
Sample Creation, Pattern Design and Instructional Outline: Michele Mishler

Tags: 

Section: 

Comments (181)

nmleal13 said:
nmleal13's picture
I don't know what i am doing wrong. But I have sat here for hours trying to figure the bag out. I printed out the patterns and taped everything the way it told me to but now I'm at the point where it is telling me to cut the fabric. The big pieces I'm suppose to cut it doesn't have a pattern right. And I'm trying to figure out how everything is suppose to go together and it's not working. I really would like to make this for a friend and it just isn't coming out the way i need it to in the beginning. Please help me and tell me what I'm doing wrong. My email is nmleal12@yahoo.com.
Jan Gaffney said:
Jan Gaffney's picture
smilies/grin.gif I don't have a little one, but this looks like the perfect bag for anyone. Not too big, pockets, and it slips over your shoulders for a little more safety. This is going on my todo list. Thanks
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture
@ Ashleyk - I'm sorry, but I'm not quite understanding the question - the PUL doesn't have a "sticky" side. Can you give me a few more details about what you are wondering about?
Ashleyk said:
Ashleyk's picture
Did you sew the Pulled with the sticky side visible inside the bag lining or was the flight part the part used that you touch and see in the lining? Thanks, I can't wait to start this project!
Chymaera said:
Chymaera's picture
Love that pattern! Not that I need a diaper bag but I think it can be a really awesome knitting or crocheting project bag! smilies/wink.gif I'm going to make one this weekend for sure smilies/cheesy.gif And I'm going to keep the pattern for when I'll need a diaper bag for real smilies/wink.gif
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture
@ Ashlee - Yay! No problem - sometimes things hide from you. You got - have fun with the rest of the project. smilies/grin.gif
Ashlee said:
Ashlee's picture
I'm sorry, I seem to be missing a brain cell. It's right there, right in front of me! Maybe more coffee would help? Lol.
Ashlee said:
Ashlee's picture
I am having a terrible time with number 4/5 in the bag construction. I don't see a vertical stitch line any where on my pattern. I'm sure it's user error, as the user is still new to sewing smilies/smiley.gif Can you help me with it? I'm trying to make a bag to take to see The Lorax this Sunday.
amarulah said:
Thank you so much for this gorgeous idea. The instructions are just perfect. Following the step-by-step tutorial you simply can't go wrong. Finished the bag yesterday and will give it to my friend's daughter who is expecting her baby boy in two weeks time.
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture
@ airam - thank you for sharing your bag... from Bulgaria! It is very pretty. I like the red accents you added ... I think they are hand embroidered flowers. Nice touch!
airam said:
Hallo my dear Sew4home.I'm writing from Bulgaria, Varna. Congratulations for your web tutorials, they are really great.The instrucions are very precise and begginers like me can easily realise each project. I was deeply impressed by this baby gift bag and I deceided to make it.I had a lot of fun while sewing it. Here is link to my blog with the result http://airam-mimi.blogspot.com....html.Nice day.
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture
@ swena79 - Refer to the Getting Started section above. There are three pattern sets to download

"Download and print the Outside Pocket Pattern, Long Strap Pattern and Short Strap Pattern.
IMPORTANT: These patterns consist of six, four and three 8.5" x 11" sheets respectively. You must print these PDF files at 100%. DO NOT SCALE to fit the page."
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture
@ aarstige Heidi and @ Lisbeth -- lovely smilies/cheesy.gif - thanks for sharing!
C. Ann said:
C. Ann's picture
Thanks for the great design & tutorial! I just finished my second bag. I gave the first to my daughter for Christmas, eveyone loved it. I am not the most experienced seamstress, and I had never made anything like it before, but the tutorial was so helpful and clear, I had no trouble and learned a lot!
Mollymuffin said:
Mollymuffin's picture
I finished this bag today in denim and puppy print quilting fabric. With the denim being stiff I found that the outside pocket did not need any interfacing. Also I wanted it to zip and found a wonderful tutorial on about.com to make a recessed zipper on the top. It required cutting 3"s off the top of the bag to put the zipper on with additional strips of fabric stitched to the zipper. Then sewing it all back onto the bag. Sounds much more complicated than it is. The hardest part was having the nerve to cut off the 3" and hope it would finish out the way I wanted it. I finished the raw edges with strips of puppy fabric and made a zipper pull with a square of fabric with paw prints.

It is something I will make the next time I need a baby gift, now I know the pattern it will make up quickly.
As far as instructions they are a 10 in ease of following.

Thank you for sharing this bag.
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture
@ Caramia-Made - beautiful job - the plaid is great - awesome job matching the pattern on the pocket to the bag smilies/cheesy.gif. Looks like you've found a lot of inspiration here! Thanks for sharing the link and letting your blog followers know about S4H.
Florence said:
Florence's picture
OK, It took me a bit but I figured out how to add the link. I put it at the bottom of the page. Keep up the good work!
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture
@ Florence - fun versions of the bag! It's always cool to see people get different uses from one pattern. Thanks for the mention on your blog; if you could add link back to our tutorial within the mention that would be great. smilies/cheesy.gif
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture
@ Florence - scroll all the way down to the "Bottom of the Bag" section, step #5. The Timtex slides into the "sleeve" to stabilize the bottom of the bag.
Florence said:
Florence's picture
I am in the process of making this bag for myself as a purse. I have a question. what do you use the 6X14 inch piece of extra-heavy weight interfacing for? I do not see anything in the instructions that say to cut or use this piece. I would like to know before i continue or I am afraid i will make a mistake. Thanks!
momof4babes said:
momof4babes's picture
i just made this last night, i wish i could post a photo for you. LOVE it! thanks for the tutsmilies/smiley.gif
schnuppe81 said:
Hi Liz Johnson,

I am very enthusiastic about the diaper bag baby gifts: pretty bird quick trip diaper bag and she would like to sew. They can give me the schnittmuster to send because the text is always the speech of a schnittmuster.
Would make me very happy. smilies/smiley.gif

Love greetings Sandra Friday
DianeL said:
DianeL's picture
I am going to make another of these pretty bags. Made one for my older daughter last year. We thought too about a zipper but decided against it. She loved the design too much (me too) to try another pattern. Now she tells me she glad not to have a zipper. She says everything stays put and she like the easy access. Anyway, I came back today because I'm going to make thus bag for my younger daughter who is due the first of January.
Casey Lane said:
Casey Lane's picture
That is quite alright! I love this bag so much I'm still going to try it out! My fabric should arrive early next week! Can't wait to get started! Thanks again! smilies/smiley.gif
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture
@ Casey Lane - Adding a zipper would require a re-design of how the top of the bag is configured because of how we constructed our lining and how the straps are attached. I'm afraid that is more of a change-up than I have time to work through... especially without actually stitching up a sample. I'm always wary of just throwing out a few random ideas when the alteration is rather involved, because I would feel awful if it didn't come out right. We really work hard to make sure our project design is well thought out and our step-by-step instructions are complete... so even new sewers can have success. So -- while we are always happy to see folks experiment with our projects to make them their own, we traditionally don't have time to re-engineer them ourselves. I do hope you still give the bag a try!smilies/smiley.gif
Casey Lane said:
Casey Lane's picture
I am not an expert sewer, but I have made things from a pattern in the past with much success. I absolutely LOVE this bag but was wondering how difficult it would be to add a zipper closure instead of a button. Could someone point me in the right direction about how to go about that? Thanks so much for sharing this amazing bag!
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture
@ Ronnie -- the pocket shouldn't feel stiff to gather. Perhaps the lining fabric you chose is too thick. The PUL that we recommend is actually quite thin and pliable. If you make another, use that for the lining; I think you'll have better luck. Glad you are enjoying the project!
Ronnie said:
Ronnie's picture
I just loved the look of this bag & had to try it. My biggest problem was the side pocket. I had trouble gathering it because it was so stiff. Was wondering if anyone else had that problem. I used the nylon that you can use for flags for the inside. I also would like to make it a little smaller. Thanks again for a great design.
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture
@Sewpenny -- I sat down with the seamstress on the project and we went through everything again. You must have had some success if you are on bag three! smilies/cheesy.gif The instructions are correct. The 'stiff stuff' is inserted into the outside cover of the bag after all the construction is complete but before it is turned right sides out. This step is before the lining is sewn to the upper edge. Once the lining is sewn in, there is no other way to get the timtex between the lining and the outside of the bag. The bag is stiff because of the layers, and definitely difficult to turn, but this is indeed how we did it.
Sewpenny said:
Sewpenny's picture
This is a beautiful bag. I am on my third one. The problem I have is that you can't put the stiff stuff in the bottom until the last step. If you do you're not going to be able to turn it. I am an experienced seamstress and Boy, I've tried. so unless I'm missing something.
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture
@ SewinMama -- great job - so glad you had fun with our tutorial... and that your hubby likes it too smilies/cool.gif
Jemima said:
Jemima's picture
That is what I call a clever idea. Too often bags like this are too big and the contents can end up a jumbled mess (well they did with me). It is a really functional size which is great and having the compartments around the oustside certainly means space is used effectively, with room in the middle for the bulkier items. I was a prefold cloth diapers person mostly, but when visiting, disposeables are easier!

Of course this bag will not only be useful for just baby\'s needs - but the design could be used for going to the beach etc.
Penny Oosterman said:
Penny Oosterman's picture
Absolutely Awesome diaper bag. I made one and my daughter loves it, especially the adjustable handles. It was pretty easy to make, but don't sew in the bottom stiffy board or whatever you use. Cause if you do you won't be able to turn it. Hand sew the bottm end when you are all done with it.
Joyce Taylor said:
Joyce Taylor's picture
Thanks for the great tute! Can't wait to make my daughter one. She'll even be able to use this after the 1 yr old is potty trained.
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture
@ June O -- making it smaller is certainly doable, but will take some math figuring on your part. It's not something I can do quickly... especially late in the day like this when my brain is sleepy.... there are a lot of pieces! The patterns we did as downloads are just for the straps and the pocket. All the other pieces are simply measurements... that's where the math will come in. The straps would probably work fine as is; you could just make a larger pleat when attaching them. For the pocket and all the other pieces, I'd say give it a go to reduce them all proportionately from the measurements given. However, it might be a good idea to try a muslin sample first to make sure everything lines up correctly.
Kathy T. said:
Kathy T.'s picture
Grandbaby due in September - I can't wait to make this!!! Thanks!smilies/cheesy.gif
June O. said:
June O.'s picture
Is there a way to shrink it jusst a bit. Would printing the pattern at say 80% give me the same ratio for the pieces?
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture
Hi again, Songa6b - All projects, patterns, photos, etc. on Sew4Home are copyrighted, so the instructions themselves and any associated patterns or pictures cannot be reproduced in anyway.

However, we do allow people to make items to sell using our tutorials. We always ask that on the tag or somewhere within the display or packaging, credit is given for the item being created from a design/pattern/tutorial from Sew4Home.com.

Thanks for checking.
Sonja6b said:
Sonja6b's picture
Can you make any of the projects that you have listed on this website to sell at bazaars, stores, etc...?

Thank you
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture
Hi Jessie10 -- the finished bag is approximately: 14" Wide, 14" Tall, Bottom 6" x 14", Side Panels 6"

Pages

Add new comment

*Sew4Home reserves the right to restrict comments that don’t relate to the article, contain profanity, personal attacks or promote personal or other business.
By submitting this form, you accept the Mollom privacy policy.