The final entry in our Pretty Piped Pillow Series is a gorgeous octagon, which features a double framed square and clever corner triangles. As with the other pillows in this series, the patchworking looks much more complex than it really is. Make sure your initial cuts are precise, and assembly will be a snap. We show you how to add the piping and how to alter your pillow form to fit the unique shape.

The final entry in our Pretty Piped Pillow Series is a gorgeous octagon, which features a double framed square and clever corner triangles. As with the other pillows in this series, the patchworking looks much more complex than it really is. Make sure your initial cuts are precise, and assembly will be a snap. We show you how to add the piping and how to alter your pillow form to fit the unique shape.

Joanna Figueroa’s lovely Butterscotch & Rose collection is the perfect fabric choice for these pillows and so much more. The colors are rich and creamy and the patterns elegant. But in true Joanna fashion, nothing ever feels stuffy or dated. She injects a modern energy into the charm of a nostalgic color palette. Like a cashmere sweater worn over your favorite jeans; it’s comfortable and stylish in one fell swoop. Butterscotch & Rose is no longer a current collection, but there are many similar options within the myriad of new quilting weight cottons. 

To find the other two pillows in this Series, scroll to the bottom of the page to the “Related Articles” links.

Sewing Tools You Need

• Any Sewing Machine (we recommend the Janome 4120QDC)
• Zipper foot

Fabric and Other Supplies

• ⅓ yard of 44-45″ wide feature fabric for the center square; we used Joanna Figueroa’s Butterscotch & Rose by Fig Tree Quilts for Moda Fabrics in Buttercream Floral Natural
• ¼ yard of coordinating 44-45″ wide fabric for the inside frame; we used Joanna Figueroa’s Butterscotch & Rose by Fig Tree Quilts for Moda Fabrics in Ruby Tossed Buds
• ¼ yard of coordinating 44-45″ wide fabric for the outside frame; we used Joanna Figueroa’s Butterscotch & Rose by Fig Tree Quilts for Moda Fabrics in Butterscotch Floral Natural
• ¼ yard of coordinating 44-45″ wide fabric for the corner triangles; we used Joanna Figueroa’s Butterscotch & Rose by Fig Tree Quilts for Moda Fabrics in Solid Ruby
• ½ yard of coordinating 44-45″ wide fabric for the pillow back; we used Joanna Figueroa’s Butterscotch & Rose by Fig Tree Quilts for Moda Fabrics in Ruby Floral Queen Anne’s Lace
• ½ yard of ONE additional coordinating fabric for the piping; we used Joanna Figueroa’s Butterscotch & Rose by Fig Tree Quilts for Moda Fabrics in Ruby Acorn Mosaic
• 2¼ yards of ½” cotton cording
• Curved needle (optional, for sewing on buttons)
• One 18″ x 18″ pillow form
• See-through ruler
• Iron and ironing board
• Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
• Fabric pen or pencil
• Straight pins
• Tape measure
• See-through ruler
• Seam gauge

Getting Started

1. From the fabric for the center square (Buttercream Floral Natural in our sample), cut ONE 11″ x 11″ square.
2. From the fabric for the inside frame (Ruby Tossed Buds in our sample), cut the following:
   TWO 2½” x 11″ strips
   TWO 2½” x 14″ strips
   NOTE: We cut two 2½” x width of fabric strips and then cut those strips down into the 11″ and 14″ lengths.
3. From the fabric for the outside frame (Butterscotch Floral Natural in our sample), cut FOUR 3½” x 14″ strips
   NOTE: We cut two 3½” x width of fabric strips and ten cut those strips down into the 14″ lengths.
4. From the fabric for the corner triangles (Solid Ruby in our sample), cut TWO 3½’ x 3½” squares, then cut each square in half into two triangles
5. From the fabric for the pillow back (Ruby Floral Queen Anne’s Lace in our sample), cut the following:
   ONE 13″ x 18″ rectangle (the overlap panel)
   ONE 15″ x 18″ rectangle (the underlap panel)
6. From the piping fabric (Ruby Floral Queen Anne’s Lace in our sample), cut enough 2″ wide strips on the bias to create a finished strip at least 78″ long.
7. Arrange all the cut pieces to match our pattern. This will allow you to pick up the pieces in the correct order as you sew together the pieces.
   

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

1. Find the two 11″ inside frame strips (Ruby Tossed Buds in our sample) and the 11″ x 11″ center square (Buttercream Floral Natural in our sample).
2. Pin one strip, right sides together, on the top of the center square and one strip, right sides together, on the bottom of the center square.
   
3. Stitch together using a ½” seam allowance. Press the seam allowance together and towards the darker fabric.
4. Find the two 14″ inside frame strips (Ruby Tossed Buds in our sample).
5. Pin one strip, right sides together, on each side of the center square.
   
6. Stitch together using a ½” seam allowance. Press the seam allowance together and towards the darker fabric.
7. Find the four 14″ outside frame strips (Butterscotch Floral Natural in our sample).
8. Pin one strip, right sides together, on the top of the center square (which now has the inside frame sewn in place) and one strip, right sides together, on the bottom.
   
9. Stitch together using a ½” seam allowance. Press the seam allowance together and towards the darker fabric.
10. Find the four small triangles. Pin one triangle, right sides together, to each end of the two remaining 14″ outside frame strips.
    
11. Stitch together using a ½” seam allowance. Press the seam allowance together and towards the darker fabric.
12. In addition to pressing towards the darker color, for all the above seaming it is important to alternate the direction of the seams you will be matching up. In other words, if you press the seam of one piece to the right, the seam it matches up with should be pressed to the left. This will allow the seams to nest together, the seam lines to match perfectly, and the patchwork to lay nice and flat.
    
13. Pin one finished triangles/strip piece to the top of your in-progress front and one to the bottom.
    
14. Press well from both the front and back to complete the pillow front.
    

Make the pillow back

1. On both the overlap panel and the underlap panel fold and press one 18″ edge ½”, then fold and press an additional 3″.
2. Edgestitch in place along the inside folded edge to create a 3½” clean finished hem on each piece.
   
   NOTE: If you are new to hemming, check out our technique tutorial: How To Make A Simple Hem.
3. On the hemmed overlap panel mark placement for the buttonholes. One buttonhole should be at the exact center (9″ from  the top/bottom).The other two buttonholes should each be placed 5″ from each raw edge (5″ down from the top and 5″ up from the bottom).
4. Following the instructions in your machine’s manual, make one buttonhole at each of the three marks. The buttonholes should be vertical within the hemmed edge – in other words parallel to the hemmed edge.
   
5. Take both pieces and overlap the hems to yield the correct finished width (18″ in our sample)
   
6. The opening should be centered along the back of the pillow.
   
7. Use the positioned buttonholes to mark the placement for the buttons and hand stitch three buttons in place.
8. Overlap the panels again and button the buttons. Working as close to the edges as possible, stitch the top and the bottom of panels together to secure and create one piece. Keep your stitching within the regular seam allowance. It’s easier to work with one piece to do the final assembly of the front and back.
   
9. Place the pillow back right side up on your work surface. Place the pillow front right side down on top of the pillow back (in other words, the two pieces are right sides together).
10. Align your see-through ruler along the raw edge of the corner triangle. Use a rotary cutter to trim off the corner of the pillow back so it is flush with the pillow front.
    
11. Repeat at each corner.
12. If you don’t have a rotary cutter, draw a line along the ruler’s edge and then cut along the drawn line with a pair of scissors.

Piping

1. If this is your first time making piping, see our piping tutorial for tips on how to make it and attach it.
2. Stitch together your 2″ bias strips to create a 78″ length.
   
3. Wrap the fabric around the cord. Pin close to the cording to hold it in place.
4. Using a zipper foot, sew close to the cording to create your fabric covered piping.
   
   NOTE: If your sewing machine allows, move the needle all the way to the left. Or, use a narrow base zipper foot so you can get nice and tight against the cording.
5. The flange (this is the fabric portion that is flat) on the cording should be a perfect ½” seam allowance.
6. Machine or hand baste the piping onto the right side of the pillow front, aligning the raw edges and easing around the corners.
   NOTE: Since you cut your strips on the bias, it should bend nicely, but you can also cut a few slits into the flange to help it around the corner angles. However, be sure not to cut into your stitching.
7. To join, cut back the piping cord to match and overlap to finish.
   
8. Again, if you’re new to attaching piping, check out our tutorial for tips on joining and finishing.

Sew front and back together

1. Layer front and back right sides together, sandwiching the piping in between. Pin well all around.
2. Using a ½” seam allowance and your zipper foot, sew around all four sides of the pillow. 
   
3. Unbutton the pillow back and turn the pillow cover right side out.

Alter the corners of the pillow form

1. Our pillow is an octagon rather than square like our pillow form, and although we probably could have squished the pillow form into the corners, we were worried about wrinkles showing through.
2. So, we stitched and cut off the corners of our pillow form to match the pillow cover.
3. To do this, measure approximately 2½” back from the point of each corner and draw a diagonal line with your fabric pen.
4. Stitch along the drawn line.
   
5. Trim the pillow point back to about ½” from the seam line.
   
6. Insert the octagon pillow form into the octagon pillow cover through the back opening and button closed.