Close your eyes and imagine your mom, your grandma or maybe even your favorite next door neighbor. The woman who was always wearing an apron as she bustled through the household chores. Maybe she’s hanging sheets on the line, maybe sweeping off the front steps with an old wooden broom, maybe pulling her umpteenth cherry pie warm from the oven. The fabric was a pretty little print in sweet colors. It was long enough to cover all the way to her knees, and soft enough to float in the breeze from her open kitchen windows. That apron… her apron… is what we have for you here.

Do you have the picture in your mind? Then open your eyes… you’ll need them for the instructions, which you’ll be pleasantly surprised to find are very quick and easy. Our design is so clever, you only need one pattern piece, which we provide as a free download, for the armhole cut outs. Everything else is made of simple rectangles!

Our original sweet fabric was from the California Girl collection by Joanna Figueroa for Moda Fabrics. We used the same fabric for all the front pieces. This is the fabric featured in the instructional steps below.

When its drop-waist style and  jaunty suspender clips generated hundreds of downloads, we decided to refresh the sample with new fabric, changing it up by mixing two pretty coordinating prints for the front. Both prints were originally selected from the Ambleside collection by Brenda Riddle Designs for Moda Fabrics.

The neck loop is cut on the bias which allows it to lay nicely around your neck and shoulders. Plus, it’s very easy to adjust with the two suspender clips. Packaged piping provides three lines of accent color along the top of the bodice, the pocket, and the ruffled skirt.

We used a lightweight interfacing for the top of the bodice, neck strap and pocket. If you want a super-soft and slouchy feel, this can be omitted entirely. However, we would recommend placing at least a bit of interfacing at the upper corners of the bodice to help support the buckles.

For the second sample, we interfaced the entire top of the apron rather than stopping the interfacing at the bodice line as was done on the original sample. This gave the apron a smoother front finish while still providing enough stability for the suspender clips as well as the pocket. This additional step means you’ll want to use the armhole pattern to cut out a piece of interfacing in the same manner as the front fabric and the lining.

As with store-bought aprons, our design is meant to be one-size-fits-most. However, we realize you may still wish to make yours smaller or larger. As a reference, the horizontal measurement across the drop waist is approximately 32″, the waist ties are each approximately 29″ long, the neck is a single adjustable loop cut on the bias, the total length from bodice top to the bottom of the ruffled skirt is about 33″, and the very top of the bodice is 12″ across.

Sewing Tools You Need

• Sewing machine and standard presser foot
• Zipper foot

Fabric and Other Supplies

• 1⅓-2 yards of 44-45″ wide print fabric for the apron front, pocket and straps; our original fabrics are detailed above
  NOTE: The yardage variation is because of the optional bias cut for the neck tie. If you’d like to cut on the bias, purchase the larger amount. And – of course you’ll need to split the yardage to account for the pocket and ruffle if you wish to use the double-fabric option of our second sample: ONE 11″ wide x 13″ high rectangle for the pocket and ONE 14″ x WOF (width of fabric) strip for the bottom ruffle.
• ¾ yard of 44-45″ wide solid fabric for the apron lining; we originally used Bella Broadcloth by Moda Fabrics in Ivory
• 1 yard of lightweight fusible interfacing for the pocket, neck strap and bodice
• 2½ yards (one package) of coordinating piping; we used Wrights Maxi Piping
• Two 1″ overall buckles; we used Dritz Overall Buckles with No-Sew Buttons
• All purpose thread to match fabric
• See-through ruler
• Fabric pencil
• Iron and ironing board
• Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
• Seam ripper
• Seam gauge
• Straight pins
• Small hammer

Getting Started and Pattern Download

1. Download and print out the Apron Cut Out Part One and Apron Cut Out Part Two templates.
   IMPORTANT: Each template is ONE 8½” x 11″ sheet. You must print the PDF files at 100%. DO NOT SCALE to fit the page. Print horizontally (landscape).
2. Cut out the pattern pieces along the solid lines. Butt the pieces together at the arrows as indicated on the templates. Do not overlap. Tape together to form the complete template.
3. Fold the apron lining (Bella Broadcloth in our sample) and the apron front fabric (California Girl in our sample) in half (so they are now both 22″ wide).
4. Using the folded edge as one long side, from each fabric cut ONE rectangle 21″ high x 16½” wide. Do not cut the fold.
5. While the fabric piece is still folded, align the assembled Apron Cut Out Template in the upper right corner (the raw edges corner, not the folded corner) and trim out that shape to create the arm hole (to get this photo to fit it is turned at a 90˚ angle).
   
6. Do this for both the front fabric folded piece and the lining fabric folded piece.
7. You now have two finished main body pieces that, when unfolded, should measure 21″ high x 33″ with two armhole cuts.
8. From the remaining print fabric, cut the following:
   ONE 11″ wide x 13″ high rectangle for the pocket; use this cut for the accent fabric if following the two-print option
   TWO 3½” x 30″ strips for the ties
   ONE 3½” x 28 strip ON THE BIAS for the neck strap
   ONE 14″ x WOF (width of fabric) strip for the bottom ruffle; use this cut for the accent fabric if following the two-print option
   NOTE: Cutting the neck strap on the bias is not 100% necessary, but it does allow the strap to gently curve, which makes it lay nicely around the neck.
9. From the fusible interfacing, cut the following:
   ONE 10″ x 6″ rectangle for the pocket
   ONE 2½” x 27″ strip for the neck strap
   Using the apron top piece as a pattern, cut a piece of interfacing to match the top edge and armhole curves and that is approximately 9-10″ in depth.
   NOTE: You simply want enough interfacing to give the top of the apron a little bit of body and provide extra support for the overall buckles. As mentioned above, for our second sample, we opted to cut an interfacing panel to cover the full height of the bodice. The choice is yours.

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

1. Press all pieces to remove any wrinkles.
2. Following manufacturer’s instructions, fuse the interfacing pieces to the WRONG side of all the corresponding apron front pieces as follows: on the bodice piece, align the top edge and the armhole curves – or if using a full panel, cover the entire bodice. On the neck strap, center the interfacing down the length of the strap. On the interior pocket piece, first fold the fabric in half, making it 6½” x 11. Press a center crease. Open up the fabric again and align the top of the interfacing with the crease line. This will leave a ½” of fabric extending along both sides and across the bottom.

Attach piping to apron front

1. Cut the piping to fit both the top and bottom edges of the apron front. You want to piping to extend beyond the fabric edges on both ends to allow for any shifting. You’ll trim it flush when it’s stitched in place.
   
2. Pin the piping in place, aligning the raw edges of the piping’s insertion tape and the fabric.
   
3. Attach your zipper foot.
4. Baste the piping in place. This seam will be about a ⅜” seam allowance, but use the piping’s stitching as your guide rather than your needle plate markings. It helps to move your needle to the left.
   
5. Trim the piping flush with the edges of the fabric. Don’t worry about cutting through your seam line, it will be secured into the final side seams in a later step.
6. Set the apron top aside.

Make and place the waist ties

1. Find the two 3½” x 30″ waist ties. Both ties are created in the exact same manner.
2. Fold the strip in half right sides together so it is now 1¾” x 30″.
3. Switch back to your regular presser foot.
4. Using a ½” seam allowance, stitch one end and the long side. Leave the opposite end open for turning. Remember to pivot at the corner.
5. Clip the corner. Turn the tube right side out. We used our hemostat trick. Square up the corners with a long, blunt-end tool, and press well.
   
6. Place the ties on the apron front. One waist tie should be pinned at each side ⅜” below the bottom of the arm hole curve.
7. The raw ends of the ties should be flush with the raw edges of the apron front. Pin the tails of the ties to the middle of the apron to keep them out of the way of the final seam.
   

Assemble the apron top

1. Place the apron lining right sides together with the apron front, sandwiching the ties and the sewn piping in between the two layers.
2. Pin well, making sure your ties don’t shift position. If you are unsure of your pinning accuracy, you could baste the ties in place prior to layering the lining and the front.
   
3. Using a ⅜” seam allowance (we are using this slightly smaller seam allowance because that is the width of the piping’s insertion tape – that said, across the top, your goal is to stitch right along but not on the piping cord – even if that is slightly wider or narrower than ⅜”), stitch along the sides, around the arm hole curves, and across the top. Leave the entire bottom open.
4. Go slowly to keep your arm hole curve nice and even. Backstitch over each of the ties for extra stability.
5. When done, clip all the corners and the curves.
6. Turn right side out through the bottom opening. Use a long, blunt-end tool to gently push out and square all the corners, smooth out the curves, and push out the piping along the top edge; a chopstick, knitting needle or point turner works nicely.
7. Pull out the ties. Press well.
   

Make and insert the bottom ruffle

1. Find the 14″ x WOF strip.
2. Make a ¼” double-turn hem along both sides and across the bottom. We used our favorite method with clean finished corners. If you are new to hemming, as well as this cornering technique, take a look at our tutorial.
   
3. Run two lines of gathering stitches along the top raw edge. Softly gather the strip to fit the bottom apron opening, approximately 32″.
   NOTE: If you are new to gathering, we have a tutorial on the subject.
   

Finish the edges of the bottom opening and insert the ruffle

1. Fold under the bottom of the apron front. You are folding right on the piping seam line, so the raw edges will turn in, leaving a clean line of piping along the bottom.
2. Fold under the raw edge of the lining to match. It will be an approximate ⅜” fold, however, rather than using your seam gauge, use the piping itself as your guide. Hold the fold in place as you pin across the bottom.
   
3. Press lightly over the pins to set the folds. With the folds set, un-pin so the bottom of the bodice is open.
4. Insert the gathered strip into this bottom opening between the front fabric and the lining.
   
5. Even out the gathers if necessary. The hemmed edges of the ruffled strip should be flush against the edges of the top opening. Pin in place.
   NOTE: We found it helpful to first pin from the front, then to flip over the apron and add pins along the back as well. You will be sewing along the right side of the apron and so you want to insure you will catch the hem of the lining. Adding the extra pins helps hold the lining in place. Because you can simply flip up the ruffle and reach in, it’s easy to remove the pins from on top and underneath as you stitch. Always stop with your needle in the down position so your fabric doesn’t shift.
   
6. Take the apron to the machine. The start point should be the side stitch line of the ruffle. From this start point, stitch ¼” from the piped seam through all the layers across the entire front of the apron.
   
7. As you did at the start of the seam, stop the seam at the side stitch line of the ruffle.
   
8. Here’s the finished seam from the front and the back.
   

Make the neck strap

1. Find the 3½” x 28″ bias cut neck strap, to which you should have already fused the appropriate interfacing strip.
2. Fold the strip in half right sides together so it is now 1¾” x 28″.
3. Using a ½” seam allowance, stitch one end, down the long side, stopping in the middle of the long side and leaving an approximate 4″ opening for turning. Continue the seam to the end of the long side and across the opposite end.
4. Remember to pivot at the corners and to lock your seam at either side of the opening.
5. Clip the corners. Turn the tube right side out. We again used our hemostat trick.
6. Square up the corners with a long, blunt-end tool.
7. Fold in the raw edges of the opening used for turning so they are flush with the sewn seam.
8. Hand stitch the opening closed.
9. Press well. As mentioned above, when cut on the bias, the neck strap should have a gentle curve to it.

Make the pocket

1. Find the 11″ x 13″ pocket piece, to which you should have already fused the appropriate interfacing piece to one half of the panel.
2. As above, pin and then baste the piping across the top raw edge of the pocket (the non-interfaced side of the panel). The piping should extend beyond the edges of the fabric.
   
3. When the piping is stitched in place, trim the ends flush with the edges of the fabric. As above with the apron front piping, don’t worry about cutting through your seam line, it will be secured into the final side seams.
4. Fold the pocket in half, right sides together, so it is now 11″ x 6½”. The piping will be sandwiched between the layers.
5. Pin along both sides and across the top piped edge. Leave a 3-4″ opening along one side for turning.
6. Switch to your zipper foot again.
7. Using a ⅜” seam allowance, stitch along both sides and across the top, remembering the leave the 3-4″ opening along one side. Place the pocket under the needle with the piping seam facing up so you can follow along exactly in this seam when stitching across the top of the pocket.
8. Pivot at the corners and lock your seam at either side of the 3-4″ opening.
9. Trim the seam allowance to ¼” and clip corners at a diagonal, being careful not to cut into your seam.
10. Turn right side out through the side opening.
11. Use a long, blunt-end tool, like a chopstick, knitting needle or point turner to square the corners and gently push the piping into a nice straight line.
12. Press well, pressing in the raw edges of the opening so they are flush with the sewn seam.

Attach the pocket to the apron front

1. Place the finished pocket on the right side of the apron front, centering the pocket side to side (10¾” from both sides) and with the bottom edge of the pocket 1½” up from the bottom line of piping
2. Pin the pocket in place along both sides and across the bottom.
   
3. Edgestitch the pocket in place along both sides and across the bottom.
4. Backstitch at the top corners of the pocket to help secure these areas that will take the most stress.
   
   NOTE: You are stitching through both the front and the lining layers to attach the pocket. In many projects, we have you place the pocket first and then sew the front to the lining. However, for this project, because we are using a lightweight cotton, we felt it was best to attach the pocket through both layers for the best stability. The apron is not meant to be reversible, so this won’t hurt the design.

Neck strap and overall buckles

1. Following manufacturer’s instructions, attach the overall buttons and buckles. The instructions that came with our Dritz buckles were quite easy, and you get to hit something with a hammer!
2. Thread the neck strap through the buckles, making sure to not twist the strap loop. Here is what the threading pattern looks like from the front of one buckle and the back of the other.
   
3. Mark the position for the buttons. We put ours 1½” in from each side edge and an equal 1½” from the top piped edge.
   
4. Insert the button tack from the back through to the front at your marked points.
   NOTE: Do one button at a time.
5. Flip the apron over and drop the point of the tack into the hollow shank of the button cap.
6. Make sure your button cap is sitting absolutely flat on a hard surface. When the two pieces are in position, cover up the back of the tack with a piece of fabric to protect it, and WHACK it several times with a hammer. Make your swings strong and even. It takes some force to drive the tack into place and you don’t want any twisting.
   

Project Design: Alicia Thommas
Sample Creation: Liz Johnson