I'm a little behind the curve when it comes to reality TV. It was only a short time ago I learned exactly what a "Honey Boo Boo" was. Yikes! I also recently discovered a new competitive sport of which I had no previous knowledge: Extreme Couponing, which must be what Extreme Skateboarders do on their day off. Although far from extreme, I am a coupon clipper; I even keep the ones that spit out like some sort of crazy jackpot with my grocery receipt. They all end up in a kitchen drawer, which is usually where they are when I really need them. If I do manage to remember to bring them to the store, it's so hard to find the one I need, I often just give up. For Weekend Wonders Returns with Fabric.com, our solution is a pretty Coupon Wallet. It has seven pockets so you sort coupons, frequent shopper and/or reward punch cards, gift cards, and more into specific sections. Now they will be easy to find, and therefore, easy to use. Never pay full price again!
We chose a great fabric by Patty Young for Michael Miller from Fabric.com in a fun numbers motif. Use our choice or pick your own from Fabric.com's over 500,000 yards of inspiration. Check out the options in their Retro & Mod Prints category. It features many of our favorite designers and collections.
Today's Wallet is a true Weekend Wonder. It is very quick and easy to make and is so pretty it could double as a regular wallet. The finished project folds up in thirds and is secured with an elastic loop and button. You could also use the elastic loop to hang the open wallet on a kitchen bulletin board, making it easy to drop new coupons into the proper pocket.
Our entire week of Weekend Wonders is sponsored by the good folks at Fabric.com where US shipping is always free for orders of $35 or more, and Fabric.com always adds an extra inch to their cuts to insure they are accurate and you are never short. This is especially helpful when you're doing careful fussy cutting.
Sewing Tools You Need
- Any Sewing Machine (we recommend the Janome Memory Craft 9900)
- Quarter Inch Seam foot (optional)
- Zipper foot (optional)
Fabric and Other Supplies
- ¾ yard of 44"+ wide cotton for exterior and all pockets; we used 44" Keys in Red from the Just My Type collection by Patty Young for Michael Miller Fabrics from Fabric.com
- ⅛ - ¼ yard of medium weight twill for the accent band; we used 60" Organic Cotton Twill in Winter White (#UM-148) from Fabric.com
NOTE: You need a piece large enough to hoop for embroidery if you choose to do the monogram; the exact size will depend on your machine's available embroidery hoops. The finished accent band will trim down to 2½" x 14".
- ¼ yard of 45"+ wide fusible fleece; we used 45" Pellon 987F Fusible Fleece (#NR-399) from Fabric.com
- 1 yard of 20" lightweight fusible interfacing; we used Pellon 950F Shir-Tailor® (#0307084) from Fabric.com
- ONE ¾" - 1" button; we used a white button from our stash to coordinate with the round number motif in the fabric
- ONE thin elastic hairband; we used black
- Stabilizer for the optional embroidery as recommended for your embroidery machine
- All purpose thread to match fabrics and ribbon
- Embroidery thread to coordinate with the main fabric for optional monogram; we used steel gray
- See-through ruler
- Fabric pen or pencil
- Seam gauge
- Seam ripper
- Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
- Iron and ironing board
- Straight pins
- Hand sewing needle
- From the fabric from the main fabric (Keys in Red in our sample) cut the following:
TWO 9½" wide x 14" high rectangle for the exterior panels
TWO 9" wide x 8" high rectangles for the A pockets
TWO 9" wide x 6" high rectangles for the B pockets
ONE 9" wide x 7" high rectangle for the C pocket
ONE 9" wide x 5" high rectangle for the D pocket
- From the fabric for the accent band (Organic White Twill in our sample),
If monogramming, cut ONE strip big enough to hoop, it will be trimmed to 2½" x 14"
If not monogramming, cut ONE 2½" x 14" strip
- From the fusible fleece, cut the following:
TWO 4¼" x 8" rectangles
ONE 3¾" x 8" rectangle
- From the lightweight interfacing, cut the following:
ONE 9" wide x 13½" high rectangle
TWO 9" wide x 8" high rectangles
TWO 9" wide x 6" high rectangles
ONE 9" wide x 7" high rectangle
ONE 9" wide x 5" high rectangle
At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board
- Download the free font collection in the proper format for your machine.
- Hoop the twill fabric and stabilizer, and monogram the letter of your choice surrounded by the brackets.
- Trim each of the finished monogrammed pieces to 2½" x 14", positioning the embroidery so it is centered side to side within the 2" width. The bottom-most curve of the brackets should be approximately 2" up from the bottom raw edge of the strip
Prepare and attach the accent band
- Fold back each long raw edge of each strip ¼". Press.
- Machine baste the folds in place. We used our Quarter Inch Seam foot.
- Find one 9½" x 14" exterior panel. Fold the panel in half (so it is now 4¾" x 14") and lightly press to set a center crease. Unfold right side up so the crease line is visible.
- Fold the accent band in half lengthwise and mark the center point at the top and bottom of the strip.
- Center the accent band on the right side of the exterior panel, centering it over the panel's crease line and using the accent band's top and bottom pin points as additional guides. Pin the band in place.
- Thread the machine with thread to match the fabric in the top and bobbin, which should be a contrasting color to the accent band. We used salmon pink in our sample.
- Edgestitch along both sides. This edgestitching should be as close as possible to the outer folded edges of the accent band, and so well out of the way of the machine basting stitches (for which we also used the pink thread).
- Remove the basting stitches.
- Find the hairband. Center it within the accent band at the bottom. Pinch to form an approximate ¾" loop. Pin in place.
- Machine baste in place close to the raw edge of the fabric.
- Flip this sewn panel to the wrong side. Find the 9" x 13½" rectangle of lightweight fusible interfacing. Following manufacturer's instructions, fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the sewn panel.
Prepare the interior pocket panel
- Find the remaining 9½" x 14" main panel.
- Using a fabric pen or pencil, draw in the following guidelines: ½" in along all four sides as a seam allowance guideline, a horizontal line 4½" down from the top 9½" edge, and a horizontal line 9" down from the top 9½" edge.
- Find all the pocket pieces and all the remaining lightweight interfacing pieces.
- All the pockets are made in the same manner, so you can sent up an assembly line to finish each using the same steps.
- Following manufacturer's instructions, fuse an appropriately sized interfacing piece to the wrong side of each pocket piece.
- Fold all the pockets in half widthwise, retaining the 9" width of each piece but with varying heights. Pin along the both sides and across the bottom of each of the six pockets, leaving an approximate 2-3" opening along the bottom edge for turning.
- Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch down both side seams and across the bottom of each pocket. Remember to pivot at the corners and to lock the seam on either side of the 2-3" opening left for turning.
- Clip the corners and press open the seam allowances on each pocket.
- Turn each pocket right side out. Using a blunt-end tool, such as a long knitting needle or chopstick, gently push out the corners so they are nice and square. Press each pocket flat.
NOTE: Keep track of your pockets so you know which are the A, B, C and D pieces.
- Find the three pieces of fusible fleece and the main panel with its marked guidelines.
- Place the fleece onto the wrong side of the main panel. Centering each fleece panel within the guidelines side to side and top to bottom. The two slightly larger panels go in the top and middle sections, the smaller panel in the bottom section.
- Following manufacturer's instructions, fuse the fleece panels in place.
- Find the C and D pockets. Place the D pocket on top of the C pocket, aligning the bottom and sides. Pin together.
- Find the fused main panel. Place it right side up and flat on your work surface.
- Place the first pocket unit at the bottom of the main panel. The top edge of the pocket unit should sit ½" below the marked fold line. The bottom edge should sit 1" up from the raw edge of the panel. The sides should each be approximately ⅛" in from the seam allowance guidelines.
- Find the center of the D pocket, measuring side to side. Draw a vertical line, dividing the pocket into two sections.
- Topstitch along the drawn line through all the layers. Remember, this line goes only from the top to the bottom of the D pocket.
- Edgestitch along both sides and across the bottom of the pocket unit to completely attach them to the panel.
- Find the remaining A and B pockets. There should be two of each.
- Place pocket B on pocket A to create two A/B pairs. As above, align the sides of the bottom edges.
- Place one pair in the center section. The bottom edge should ½" up from the lower horizontal fold line. The top edge should ½" below the upper horizontal fold line. The sides should each be approximately ⅛" in from the seam allowance guidelines. Pin in place.
- Place the remaining pair in the top section. The bottom edge should ½" up from the horizontal fold line. The top edge should 1" below the top raw edge of the panel. The sides should each be approximately ⅛" in from the seam allowance guidelines. Pin in place.
- Edgestitch each pocket in place along both sides and across the bottom.
Assemble to finish
- Place the front and back panels right sides together, aligning all four raw edges. The bottom of the exterior panel (with its monogrammed 'e' and hair band) should be matched up with the top of the interior pocket panel (with the A/B pocket pair on top).
- Pin in place along the all sides, leaving an approximate 7½" opening along the bottom of the interior/top of the exterior edge.
- Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch around the perimeter. Remember to pivot at all the corners and lock your seam at either side of the 7½" opening. This size of opening means you are essentially just stitching around the corners and leaving the majority of this side open.
NOTE: We used our Zipper foot for this seam because of the bulky edges of the pockets sandwiched between the layers. This foot allowed us to get in close for a nice, straight seam.
- Clip all the corners and press open the seam allowances.
- Turn right side out through the opening. As above for the pockets, use a blunt-end tool, such as a long knitting needle or chopstick to gently push out the corners so they are nice and square. Press flat.
- Press in the raw edges of the opening so they are flush with the sewn seam.
- Thread a hand sewing needle with thread to best match the fabric and slip stitch the opening closed.
- Fold the wallet into thirds to close, following the previously marked lines. It should fold easily since there are breaks between the pieces of fusible fleece.
- With the wallet correctly closed, stretch the elastic loop around to the accent band and mark the placement for the button.
- Stitch the button in place.
- Remember to wash away or erase any marked guidelines still visible on the inside.
Project Design: Alicia Thommas
Sample Creation and Instructional Outline: Debbie Guild