Our thanks to our friends at Moda Fabrics for providing all the French General Lumiere de Noel fabric as well as our selected velvets. You can find the gorgeous Lumiere de Noel fabric in stores and online now, including at Fat Quarter Shop.
Sewing Tools You Need
- Any Sewing Machine (we recommend the Janome JNH1860)
Fabric and Other Supplies
Yardages shown below are PER STOCKING, multiply to your heart's content.
- ½ yard of 44-45" wide fabric for stocking body: we used Lumiere de Noel by French General for Moda Fabrics; our stocking trio features: Floral Christmas Oiseaux Rouge Natural, Floral Christmas Tournesal Red, and Floral Christmas La Veille de Noel Tan
- ¾ yard of 44-45" wide fabric for lining of the stocking body and stocking cuff: we used Lumiere de Noel by French General for Moda Fabrics in Antique & Red Pinstripe Silky Cotton
- ¼ yard of 60" wide fabric for the outside of the stocking cuff: we used a cotton velvet by Moda Fabrics, our stocking trio features: Burgundy, Hunter and Brown
- ½ yard of low loft batting or craft fleece
- Two approximately 2½" pom-poms
NOTE: We made our own using a
- All purpose thread
- See-through ruler
- Fabric pen, pencil or chalk
- Iron and ironing board
- Hand sewing needle
- Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
- Straight pins
- Download and print the FOUR 8½" x 11"pattern sheets: Stocking Cuff, Stocking Leg, Stocking Toe and Stocking Heel You must print these PDF files at 100%. DO NOT SCALE to fit the page.
- Cut out the pattern pieces along the solid line.
- Following the diagram on the printouts, tape the Stocking Leg, Toe and Heel together to form one stocking body pattern. Do NOT overlap.
- You will now have TWO patterns: the Stocking Cuff and your taped-together Stocking Body.
- From the main body fabric (Lumiere de Noel in our sample) , use our pattern to cut the front and back of the stocking.
NOTE: Remember, you need to cut out your two pieces with your fabric folded either right sides together or wrong sides together. That way you end up with toes and heels that will match up correctly (nothing is sadder than two left feet!). If you prefer to work with your fabric flat, you will need to cut one piece with the pattern piece right side up and the other piece with the pattern piece flipped over to the wrong side. I like to work with wrong sides together so I can fussy cut my designs when the fabric has a dominant design(s).
- From the lining fabric (Pinstripe in our sample) , use our patterns to cut two body pieces and two cuff pieces.
- From the low-loft batting, use our pattern to cut two body pieces.
- From the outside cuff fabric (velvet in our sample) , use our pattern to cut two cuff pieces.
At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board
Make the two stocking body 'sandwiches'
- Place the stocking body lining piece on your work surface WRONG side facing up. Place a batting piece on top it. Place the outside stocking body piece on top of the batting layer, RIGHT side facing up. That's your 'sandwich': lining, batting, main fabric. Repeat to create a second sandwich with your remaining three layers.
- Pin the sandwiches together through all layers.
- Machine baste around the entire outside edge of the sandwiches, staying close to the raw edges.
Two choices for sewing front to back
- The easiest option is to simply pin the two completed sandwiches right sides together (front sides together). Then, using a ½" seam allowance, stitch both sides and the bottom, leaving the top open. Very carefully clip the curves, but make sure you don't clip into your seam.
- Simply turn right side out and you have a finished stocking body. The seam inside will be raw, which you can leave as is, overcast the edges with your sewing machine, or pink the edges with your pinking shears.
- The other option is to do a French seam , which is what we chose. To do this, place the front and back sandwiches WRONG sides together (right sides showing). Pin in place. Then, using a ¼" seam allowance, stitch both sides and the bottom, leaving the top open.
- Trim the seam allowance back very close to your stitching. Very carefully clip the curves, but make sure you don't clip into your seam.
- Turn the stocking wrong side out. You'll need to carefully smooth out the seam and all the curves. You can press it lightly if you want.
- Using a ¼" seam allowance, stitch AGAIN along both sides and across the bottom.
- You're encasing your first seam.
- Turn the stocking right side out again. Smooth out all those curves again, and you have a lovely French seam for a clean inside finish.
- If you are new to this technique, check out our Birthday Party Backpacks project also has some great photos of how we did a French seam for these little bags.
- We made our fluffy pom-poms, using the Clover Pom-Pom Maker. You can do this too with help from our easy, step-by-step tutorial. Or... you can buy some big pom-poms.
- We also did a fancy little twisted cord technique for the pom hangers. If you are a knitter, you'll recognize this easy technique right away. If not, there are lots of instructions online, including this video from Knitting at KNoon.
- We cut one pom and hanger at approximately 9½" and the other at approximately 11½".
- Then we made a little loop for a hanging hook with the same twisted cord technique. The finished twisted cord should be approximately 6" so you can loop it in half to 3".
- Place the two pom-poms and the loop on the INSIDE of the finished stocking body at the back side seam (the side seam in line with the stocking's heel). The ends of the pom hangers and the raw ends of the hook look should be flush with the top raw edge of the stocking; the poms are hanging down to the inside of the stocking. Place the pom-pom ends on one side of the seam and the hook loop ends on the other side. Machine baste very close to the edge, approximately 1/8", to secure all the ends.
- Set the stocking body aside.
Create and attach the cuff
- Find the two outside cuff pieces and the two lining cuff pieces.
- Place the two lining pieces right sides together, aligning all the raw edges on all sides. Pin together along both the long and short sides.
- Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch both the long and short sides.
- Repeat with the two outside cuff pieces.
- You now have two 'cuff circles.' Press seams open.
- Turn the lining cuff circle right side out and keep the outside cuff circle wrong side out.
- Slip the lining cuff circle inside the outside cuff circle. The two cuff circles are now right sides together. Match up the side seams.
- Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch along the entire bottom edge of the cuff circles. If you have a free arm on your machine, now is a good time to use it.
- To create the cuff's finished angles (the nice point at the back and squared edge at the front), you need to make sure to carefully sew into each side seam, stopping with your needle in the down position exactly on the seam, then pivot, and continue.
- Clip the seam allowance away from the points, and turn the cuff right side out.
- Using a long, blunt-end tool, like a knitting needle or chopstick, gently push out the point. Finger press the seam.
- Pull the lining cuff out and away from the outside cuff.
- Turn under the raw edge of the lining ½" and press
- With the lining still pulled away from the outside fabric, slide the cuff inside the finished body of the stocking. The lining slides in first, allowing the outside cuff to line up with the top raw edge of the stocking.
- Here's the position of everything: The stocking toe is pointing to the left. The back 'point' of the cuff should be against the back side seam of the stocking. The short front seam of the cuff should be against the front side seam of the stocking. The RIGHT side of the cuff (the velvet in our sample) should be against the WRONG side (the lining) of the stocking. The pom-poms and hook loop are sandwiched between the cuff and the stocking.
- Pin around the top of the stocking through all the layers.
- Stitch around the top of the stocking through all the layers, using a 3/8" seam allowance.
- Pull the cuff all the way out from the inside of the stocking. Press the seam allowance toward the cuff.
- Fold the pressed-under edge of the lining down over the seam allowance, covering the raw edges for a clean finish. Pin in place.
- Thread a hand sewing needle and
- Fold the cuff all the way down into place. Carefully iron from the inside so you don't mar the velvet.
- Flip out the pom-poms and pull up the hook loop.
Project Concept: Alicia Thommas
Sample Creation: Natalie Lawrie
Other machines suitable for this project include the Elna eXcellence and the Pfaff select 4.0.