Today in our ScrapBusters Series, we're cooking up a great kitchen project. Hot pads are perfect for scraps because they are small, simple shapes that cry out for mixing and matching. We 'stretched' our possibilities by making a long, two-handed version. Kind of like those 'idiot mittens' you used to have as a kid; one mitten on the each end of a string running through the arms of your coat. However, we didn't think 'idiot hot pads' sounded very good. I don't know about you, but I always set down my pot holders on opposite sides of the kitchen so when I need both to pull something out of the oven or off the stove, I never seem to have two within reach. Problem solved, and a very pretty solution to boot!
We suggest you use a thermal batting, such as Insul-Bright to insure you can handle hot pots and pans without yelping.
As with yesterday's project, today's also uses the gorgeous Pretty Bird by Pillow & Maxfield for Michael Miller Fabrics. Our hot pad features Pretty Bird fabric from the Spice colorway. Yesterday's Binky Leash and Bag was the Aqua colorway. We found Pretty Bird still available from Fashionable Fabrics and Fabric.com.
If you want to browse some of our other hot pad projects as possibilities for your scraps, check out our Retro Fun: Quilted Mitt Pot Holders.
Sewing Tools You Need
- Any Sewing Machine (we recommend the Janome DC5100)
Fabric and Other Supplies
- Scraps of various cotton fabrics or ¼ yard cuts (you need two pieces for each body, both 8" x 31", FOUR 8" x 8" squares for the mitts, TWO 3" x 8" strips for the mitt borders, and one 4" x 4" square for the hanger): we used our collection of scraps from Pillow & Maxfield's Pretty Bird for Michael Miller Fabrics: Orange Twirling Tendrils and Spice Meandering Vines for the body, Brown Dancing Flowers for the mitts, and Spice Garden Stripe for the borders and hanger
- Scraps or ½ yard of thermal batting (one piece 8" x 31" and two pieces approximately 8" x 8"): we used Insul-Bright from The Warm Company
- All purpose thread to match fabrics
- Tracing or pattern paper
- See-through ruler
- Iron and ironing board
- Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
- Straight pins
- Download and print the Rounded Corner Template.
IMPORTANT: This pattern consists of ONE 8.5" x 11" sheet. You must print the PDF file at 100%. DO NOT SCALE to fit the page.
- Cut out the piece along the solid line. Set aside.
- From the tracing or pattern paper, cut an 8" x 8" square. Set aside.
- From the fabric(s) for the body of the hot pad (Orange Twirling Tendrils-front and Spice Meandering Vines-back in our sample), cut ONE 8" x 31" rectangle for the front and ONE 8" x 31" rectangle for the back.
- Using your 8" x 8" template, from the fabric for the mitts (Brown Dancing Flowers in our sample), fussy cut FOUR 8" x 8" squares.
NOTE: The fussy-cutting is most important for the pieces that will become the front of your mitts. Choose and center a large design; I picked a large flower with bits of eye-catching blue on its petals.
- From the contrasting fabric (Garden Stripe in our sample), cut:
ONE 4"x 4" square for the hanger.
TWO 3" x 8" strips for the mitt borders.
NOTE: If you use a directional print as we did, think about which way you want your print to appear. For example, we wanted our stripes running horizontally.
- From the thermal batting, cut ONE 8" x 31" rectangle for the body. We'll cut the batting for the mitts later.
- Layer your three body pieces flat on your work surface in the following order: batting, back piece RIGHT side up, front piece WRONG side up.
- Pin the Rounded Corner Template in place on one end. Align the side edges and bring the curve very close to the raw edges. Pin and carefully cut.
- Repeat to round the opposite end.
NOTE: We cut through all layers at once to insure our pieces would match up perfectly for sewing. However, for the mitt pieces below, I recommend cutting these one at a time to insure your designs are centered and to lessen the chance you'll cut one backwards.
- Place the two 8" x 8" squares that will become the front of your mitts side by side. Adjust the two pieces until they are mirror images of one another.
- Place the Rounded Corner Template on the outside right edge of one square, aligning as above. Pin and cut.
- Without moving the pieces, place the Rounded Corner Template on the outside left edge of the opposite square, aligning as above. Pin and cut.
- It's important to keep track of your lefts and rights so the mitts are correctly cut to fit on each end of the hot pad.
- Repeat steps 11-14 to cut the mitt lining pieces.
At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board
Assemble the mitts
- Pin a 3" x 8" strip right sides together with the inside straight edge of each front mitt front piece. Stitch together using a ½" seam allowance. Press seam open.
- Match up the opposite 8" side of each strip with the inside straight edge of each mitt lining piece. Stitch together using a ½" seam allowance. Press seam open.
- You now have two flat mitt pieces. Fold each one in half, matching all raw edges and creating a clean-finished fold along the border edge.
- Use one folded piece as a template to cut TWO pieces of thermal batting. Remember, I promised we'd do this.
- Sandwich a batting piece in between the fabric layers of each mitt, making sure all the layers are smooth and flat. Using a ¼" seam allowance, machine baste around the raw edges. Do not stitch along the folded border edge.
Assemble the front layers
- Place the batting down first on your work surface, place the front body piece on top, right side up. Place a finished mitt on each end. Keep the raw edges of all the layers flush. Pin the layers together and the mitts in place.
Create the hanger
- Find your 4" x 4" fabric square. Fold it in half diagonally. Stitch ½" from the folded edge.
- Trim the remaining fabric to ¼" from the seam. Turn right side out and roll the seam to the center of once side. Press well.
NOTE: I used my hemostats to allow me to turn this tiny tube with ease.
- Fold the hanger loop in half and pin it in place at the center top of the hot pad body. To find the center, simply fold the hot pad body in half and mark the top center with a pin.
- The hanging loop should be right sides together with the hot pad body, in other words, the seam of the loop should be facing up. I adjusted my loop for the pointy raw edges extended beyond the raw edge of the body. I'll trim them off later.
- Layer the hot pad back piece right sides together with the assembled front.
- Pin all around, leaving an approximate 6" opening along the edge opposite the hanger . Just to make sure you're paying attention, in my picture that opening is shown at the top of the photo.
- Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch around the entire hot pad. Go slowly around the curved ends, stopping as needed, with your needle in the down position, to slightly adjust your presser foot position if needed. Remember to back tack or lock stitch at either side of the 6" bottom opening.
- Trim the seam allowance and clip the curves. Do not trim back the seam allowance along the opening.
- Turn right side out through the opening. Use your finger or a long blunt tool, like a chopstick or knitting needle, to help smooth out the curved ends.
- Fold in the raw edges of the opening so they are flush with the sewn seam. Pin in place and slip stitch closed.
Project Design: Alicia Thommas
Sample Creation: Liz Johnson
Other machines suitable for this project include the Elna 5200 and the Baby Lock Melody.