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Comfy Pet Bed with Bolster Sides

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All your Christmas Cats and Holiday Hounds can have their own sweet dreams of sugar plums (or jerky treats) in our ultra comfy pet bed. We selected two cozy coordinates: a bright Christmas green and a rich leopard print. The design incorporates four bolster pillows sewn onto a flat base with a separate tufted pillow insert. We noodled on this one for quite awhile to come up with instructions that yielded a cool finished design that was also easy to assemble. So although any three-dimensional project is a bit more complex than a flat item, this cozy pet bed is something we know you can do! 

The interior pillow finishes at 21" x 28". The overall exterior bolster bed finishes at approximately 27" x 32" -- it depends a bit on how much stuffing you use. These dimensions are sized for a smaller dog or a cat, but of course you can modify things to best fit the pet(s) at your house.

We can't do the math for the myriad of animal sizes and shapes; instead, we try to insure our cutting plans and instructions are as clear and concise as possible so you can upsize or downsize as needed. If you do decide to change the size, we suggest making a prototype out of muslin or another inexpensive fabric to test your new dimensions. This is also a great way to practice the construction steps prior launching into your final project with the real fabric. 

We found our comfy fleece at Fabric.com. They have great selection of animal prints as well as a wide variety of solid colors, and even sports themes, in case your pup is a Steelers fan.  

Sewing Tools You Need

  • Any Sewing Machine (we recommend the Janome Horizon Memory Craft 8200 QC) - a machine with an expanded bed space, like the MC8200 QC, is especially helpful for this large project.
  • Walking foot (the MC8200 QC has the built-in AcuFeed Flex™ system, which we love. If you do not have a built-in feeding system, we recommend a Walking foot or similar.)

Fabric and Other Supplies

Getting Started

  1. From the fabric for the interior pillow (leopard fleece in our sample), cut TWO 22" x 29" rectangles.
  2. From the fabric for the bolsters (lime green fleece in our sample), cut the following:
    TWO 15" x 29" rectangles
    TWO 15" x 22" rectangles
  3. From the fabric for the bolster lining (khaki twill in our sample), cut the following:
    TWO 15" x 29" rectangles
    TWO 15" x 22" rectangles
  4. From the fabric for the base and ties (avocado twill in our sample), cut the following:
    TWO 22" x 29" rectangles
    EIGHT 1½" x 12" strips
  5. From the fusible interfacing, cut ONE 20" x 27" rectangle. 

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

Interior pillow

  1. Pin the 22" x 29" fleece rectangles right sides together (remember, the fleece we used was double-sided, which is why it may not look right sides together in our photos).
  2. Leave an approximate 6" opening along one side for turning and stuffing. 
  3. If possible, attach a Walking foot
  4. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch around all four sides, locking your seam at either side of the 6" opening. 
  5. Clip the corners and turn the pillow right side out. 
  6. Following the diagram below, on one side of the pillow, measure and mark SIX points at 7" increments. 
  7. Place a straight pin or safety pin at each point.
  8. Stuff the pillow so it is pleasantly plump. 
  9. Pin the opening and hand stitch closed with standard needle and thread.
  10. Thread a heavy duty needle with the button/carpet thread.
  11. Sew an "X" through all the thicknesses at each of the SIX marked points. Securely knot each "tuft" and clip the thread close to the fleece so it disappears into the nap. 
  12. Set the finished interior pillow aside. 

Bed base

  1. Find the two 22" x 29" base twill panels and the 20" x 27" heavyweight fusible interfacing. 
  2. Center the interfacing on the wrong side of one base panel. There should be 1" of fabric showing around all sides of the interfacing. 
  3. Following manufacturer's instructions fuse in place. 
  4. Along both 22" sides of both base panels (interfaced and non-interfaced), fold in the raw edges ½". 

    NOTE: The bottom edge of our bed is designed to be flexible to allow the best fold to the bolster sides. For this reason, we sized the interfacing to keep it out of the seam. As an extra precaution, you could topstitch all around the interfaced panel at the edge of the interfacing in order to insure the interfacing doesn't have the potential to de-bond and shift.
  5. Set the base panels aside. 

Ties

  1. Find the eight tie strips. 
  2. Press back one long raw edge ¼".
  3. Press in the opposite long raw edge to meet the first edge.
  4. Fold in the narrow side towards the center to conceal the raw edges. Press in place. Edgestitch down the center through all folded layers to secure.
  5. Repeat for the remaining seven tie strips. 
  6. We left both ends of all ties raw. One end of each will be secured in the the seam of the bolster. For the other end, we simply used a drop of seam sealant. You could also make a tiny hem. It depends on how fussy your pet might be.

Bolster sides

  1. Find the two 15" x 29" fleece panels, the two 15" x 22" fleece panels and the corresponding four lining panels. 
    NOTE: We are using a lining with our fleece to insure a super smooth curve to our bolster sides. The lining helps keep the fleece smooth and stable and insures no lumps or bumps of stuffing show.
  2. Place a lining panel on the wrong side of each fleece panel. 
  3. Fold each panel in half right sides together (they are now 7½" x 22" and 7½" x 29"). 
  4. Measure 2" down from the top fold. 
  5. Insert a tie at this 2" point, aligning one end of the tie so it is flush with the raw edges of the fleece/lining. 
  6. Pin and/or hand baste the tie in place. 
  7. Repeat to insert a tie at the opposite side of the panel at the same 2" point. 
  8. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch both sides. Double stitch over the tie.
  9. Clip the corners and turn the panel right side out through the bottom opening. 
  10. Pin across the bottom, leaving the last 6" open for stuffing. 
  11. Machine baste across the bottom, still leaving that last 6" open. 
  12. Repeat to create the other three bolsters. Make sure you accurately measure that 2" point for the ties so they will all align when complete. 

Stuff the bolsters and attach to the base

  1. When all four bolster are complete, use the 6" opening to insert the stuffing. You want the bolsters to be soft yet sturdy, but do NOT overstuff. You need to leave at least a 1" flat edge to effectively sew the bolster in place. Think of the bolster like a giant piece of piping. You need an "insertion tape" to sew the "piping" into the seam. 
  2. When the stuffing is complete, machine baste the 6" opening closed. 
  3. Find the interfaced base panel. Place it right side up on your work surface.  
  4. Place a long bolster at the top and bottom of the panel, aligning the machine basted edges of the bolster with the raw edge of the panel.
  5. Using a ½" seam allowance, machine baste the bolsters in place across the top and bottom.
  6. Find the un-interfaced base panel. Place it right sides together with the interfaced panel, sandwiching the bolsters between the layers. 
  7. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch across the top and bottom through all the layers. Having a Walking foot makes this so much easier, but even with such a foot in place, go slowly and carefully.
  8. Turn right side out through the open sides.
  9. Pull apart the base layers and insert one short bolster in between on each side. 
  10. On one side, pull back the top base panel and pin the bolster to the just the bottom interfaced base panel.
  11. Stitch the flat edges of the bolster to the bottom base panel, following the bolster's machine basting seam. 
  12. Repeat to stitch the opposite side bolster in place.
    NOTE: Yes, you are going to have to do a bit of manuevering to get the project under the needle. Luckily all the elements are soft and you can squish them as needed to fit under the presser foot and against the machine to the right of the needle. As you will see below, this seam will be covered up with the top panel, so don't fret too much as the look. Just stitch it in place as best you can. 
  13. Press the seam allowance towards the bottom base panel, bring the folded edge of the top base panel down over the seam to conceal, and pin in place.
  14. Hand stitch this layer in place along both sides, using tiny stitches for strength and stability. 
  15. Fold the bolsters up into position to form a box and tie a secure bow at each corner.
  16. Insert the interior pillow. 

Contributors

Project Design: Alicia Thommas
Sample Creation: Debbie Guild

Section: 

Comments (7)

Margie Lockwood said:
Margie Lockwood's picture

Thanks for the great pattern, and illustrated instructions!  Great website!

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@Margie - Thank you so much! We hope you come back often and bring all your friends. 

Julita García said:
Julita García's picture

Thank you for Your  help. its was a great help this post. 

From Spain ma y regards 

JulitaJulita

nimmie7@gmail.com said:
nimmie7@gmail.com's picture

It would be very easy to simply sew the sides together OR sew button holes in each corner and velcro straps or simply use heavy duty velcro....cute pattern, definitely trying for my furry babes.

babs4008 said:
babs4008's picture

I made one for my dog, and it came out adorable. Only problem is that she chewed off the ties that hold it together. I tried snaps, but same result. Would be great for a pet that doesn't chew.

s.marie said:
s.marie's picture

that is adorable! I am totally going to make one for my cat! thank you!

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