To adapt a famous quote, “When the sewing gets tough; the tough keep going.” We’re excited to bring you our first project using the new Janome HD9QC Professional. This heavy duty, straight stitch model is built to keep going with speed, precision, and power. It was a perfect choice for our Workhorse Utility Apron in tough canvas with unique faux suede accents.

The apron is full-coverage and designed for women or men with two continuous ties that criss-cross at the back and run through side grommets so you can adjust for a comfortable fit, tying at the back or all the way around to the front.

You will be sewing through a lot of layers, adding topstitching and edgestitching in a contrasting heavy thread. These are all tasks tailor made for the HD9. Its needle penetration power is amazing! Plus, it comes with a specialized high-speed Even Feed foot, which adds to the control when working with multiple layers.

We also found the Even Feed foot to be indispensable when stitching the faux suede we chose for the accents. Uncommon substrates, like a faux suede, leather or vinyl, can be a feeding challenge for some machines. Not for the HD9! There was no drag; even the narrow faux suede towel loop fed through with ease. And, check out the precision topstitching on the faux suede that wraps the ends of the straps. This machine is part of the Janome Professional Line, and it’s easy to see why!

The HD9 is a straight stitch model, which means all your construction steps are done with a standard straight stitch. We did lengthen the stitch a bit for our topstitching and edgestitching, but that was the only adjustment needed.

The apron and all its pockets are lined with a quality quilting cotton, and because we used a faux suede, you can toss everything in the laundry without worry. The straps are attached with swivel clips so they can be detached and won’t clunk around in your washer and dryer. The cotton duck canvas will soften nicely with repeated washing. This Workhorse Apron is meant to be used!

You can see in our beauty “action shots” that it’s a great apron option for a wide range of tough tasks. From gardening to carpentry to outdoor grilling. From pottery to cooking to indoor cleaning.

There are rivets and grommets and swivel clips (oh my!) that add to the strength of the construction. We review all the insertion steps below and link to our full step-by-step tutorials on grommets and rivets if you are new to these techniques. Metal hardware is one of our favorite finishes, and it’s easier to install that you might think – plus, you get to hit your project with a hammer and how many of us have wanted to do that before?!

Our thanks to Janome America for allowing us to put the HD9QC Professional through its paces. Visit your local Janome America dealer for your own test drive. For more information before you go, visit their website and follow them on social media.

And, be on the lookout right here on Sew4Home for a new Bag project also using the HD9 coming this Fall.

As with store-bought aprons, our design is meant to be one-size-fits-all. However, we realize you may still wish to make yours smaller or larger. As a reference, this apron finishes approximately 30″ wide at its widest point across the center and approximately 10″ at its narrowest point across the top of the bib; the total length, top to bottom, is approximately 33″; each continuous tie is 60”. You can always start with longer tie lengths as it is easy to trim and re-melt the ends of the cotton/poly webbing once you do a final fit on the apron’s wearer.

Sewing Tools You Need

Sewing Machine and standard presser foot
Quarter Inch Seam foot; standard with the HD9 in a high-speed version – very helpful in this project for the precision topstitching
Even Feed/Walking foot; standard with the HD9 in a high speed version – very helpful in this project when working with the faux suede

Fabric and Other Supplies

1 yard of 54″+ wide mid-weight duck canvas or similar for the body of the apron and the exterior of all the pockets; we used a 60” wide 10oz cotton duck canvas in black
1½ yards of 44″+ wide quilting weight cotton for the lining of the apron and all of the pockets; we used a 44” wide homespun back and mustard mini plaid check quilting cotton
½ yard of 10”+ wide faux suede or similar for the all the accents and loops; we used a brown faux suede in a thickness of about 0.9mm
NOTE: If you are new to working with faux suede, you may want to get ¾ – a full yard in order to practice your stitching options.
½ yard of 20”+ wide lightweight interfacing; we used Pellon Décor Bond
3½ yards of ¾” wide cotton/poly webbing in a color to match the canvas; we used black cotton/polyester webbing – using a polyester blend allows you to simply melt the ends of the webbing with a small flame, eliminating the need for a hem or other finish
ONE 1” D-Ring; we used antique brass
TWO ¾” swivel hooks; we used antique brass
NOTE: Swivel hooks come in a variety of styles. For this apron design, you want one with a longer hook in order to open and clip into the larger grommets at the top of the bib.
FOUR ¾” metal grommets + the appropriately-sized setting tools; we used antique brass
TEN double cap rivets + the appropriately-sized setting tools; we used antique brass
NOTE: You will be going through a number of layers when riveting so it is important your rivets have an apx. 9mm cap with a medium length shaft of apx. 8.5mm; we used Tandy Leather Medium Double Cap Rivets.
All-purpose thread in a contrasting color for topstitching; we recommend a heavyweight thread, such as Coats Heavy Thread, which is what we used in a medium latte color to stand out nicely against the black canvas
See-through ruler
Measuring tape
Fabric pen or pencil
Iron and ironing board
Pressing cloth to protect the faux suede
Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
Seam gauge
Seam ripper
Straight pins
Sewing clips; we find these easier to work with for thick layers and especially for the faux suede
Hammer to set rivets and grommets
Heavy metal, stone or wooden block to use as a cutting and hammering surface – you need a very hard surface; we like to use a small granite block
Lighter to heat seal the ends of the webbing
Kitty optional

Getting Started and Pattern Download

Download and print out the Bib Cut Out-Part A, Bib Cut Out-Part B, Bib Cut Out-Part C, Corner Trim, Large Pocket, Small Pocket, Utensil Loop, Towel Loop, D-Ring Loop, and Strap Trim. These have been bundled into one PDF to make the download easier.

IMPORTANT: Each of the EIGHT pages within the PDF is ONE 8½” x 11″ sheet. You must print the PDF file at 100%. DO NOT SCALE to fit the page. There is a guideline on each page to confirm your printout is to scale. Print horizontally (landscape).
Cut out the pattern pieces along the solid lines. For the Bib, aligning the printed arrows, assemble pieces A, B, and C into the complete Bib Cut Out pattern. There is a separate page within the PDF bundle with an assembly diagram to follow if need be. All other patterns are single pieces, although do take note that the Large Pocket pattern is designed to be cut on the fold.
From the fabric for the main body of the apron and the exterior of all the pockets (the black canvas in our sample), cut the following:
ONE 31″ wide x 34″ high rectangle
NOTE: If you have trouble cutting large panels, fold your fabric and instead cut one 15½” wide x 34” high. It can also help to stack two rulers at right angles to get a perfectly square corner.

Using the pattern, cut ONE Small Pocket and transfer the markings for the D-Ring Loop from the pattern to the pocket panel
Using the pattern, cut ONE Large Pocket and transfer the markings for the Utensil Loops and Towel Loop from the pattern to the pocket panel – remember the pocket pattern is designed to be cut on the fold.
From the fabric for the lining of the apron and all the pockets (the mini check quilting cotton in our sample); cut the following:
ONE 31″ wide x 34″ high rectangle
NOTE: If you have trouble cutting large panels, fold your fabric and instead cut one 15½” wide x 34” high.
Using the pattern, cut ONE Small Pocket
Using the pattern, cut ONE Large Pocket
From the faux suede (or similar) for all the accents, cut the following:
Using the Corner Trim pattern, cut TWO
Using the Utensil Loop pattern, cut TWO
Using the Towel Loop pattern, cut ONE
Using the D-Ring Loop pattern, cut ONE
Using the Strap Trim pattern, cut TWO
Cut the webbing into TWO 60” lengths.
From the interfacing, using the patterns, but cutting along the dotted stitching line, cut following:
ONE Small Pocket
ONE Large Pocket – again, remember the pocket pattern is designed to be cut on the fold – you need a full piece of interfacing

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

Prepare the main panels

Find the main 31″ x 34″ lining panel. Place it right side up and flat on your work surface. Find the main 31″ x 34″ exterior panel. Place it right side down and flat on top of the lining. The two layers are now right sides together. Make sure all the raw edges of both layers are flush with one another.
Fold the apron panel in half vertically so it is now 15½” x 34”. Carefully align the raw edges of the layers on all sides.
Find the assembled Bib Cut Out pattern. Place it in the upper corner (not the corner with the fold), aligning the pattern with the top and side raw edges as shown in the photo below. Pin or clip the pattern in place.
Cut along the curved inner edge of the pattern through all the layers.
Set the lining panel to the side for now.
If using a label as we did, stitch it in place now on the front of the exterior bib. The top of our label is positioned 1¾” down from the top raw edge of the bib and centered side to side.
Thread the machine with thread to best match your label in the top and bobbin or use a thread to match your exterior fabric, which was our choice. Slightly lengthen the stitch and edgestitch around all four sides of the label.
Place the exterior apron panel right side up and flat on your work surface.
Thread the machine with thread to best match the faux suede in the top and bobbin. Re-set for a standard straight stitch. Attach the Straight Stitch foot.
Find the two Corner Trim squares. Place one square right side down (so the two pieces are right sides together) in each lower corner of the apron panel, making sure the outer edges of the two layers are flush. Follow the steps below for each corner.
Draw a line diagonally through the center of the square.
Stitch along the drawn line.
Trim ½” inch to the right of the seam line, essentially cutting off the outside corner.
Fold the corner trim along the seam line so it is now right side up and its raw edges align with the raw edges of the apron panel.
The machine should still be threaded with thread to best match the faux suede in the top and bobbin. Slightly lengthen the stitch.
Topstitch ¼” from the diagonal fold. This secures the seam allowance and insures the thicker faux suede will lay beautifully flat during the remainder of construction. In the photo below, we topstitched and then returned the foot to the center of the stitching to best show you both the stitch line and foot position.

NOTE: If you are a quilter, you’ll recognize this corner triangle stitch-trim-and-fold process as a standard quilting technique.

Prepare the small pocket

Find all the elements for the small upper pocket: the exterior panel, the lining panel, the interfacing panel, the D-Ring loop, and the D-Ring.
Center the interfacing on the exterior panel so there is ½” of fabric showing beyond the interfacing on all four sides. Following manufacturers instructions, fuse in place.
You should have transferred the markings for the position of the D-Ring Loop from the paper pattern to the fabric. If not, do that now.
Find the D-Ring Loop, flip it wrong side up and draw a line down the vertical center.
Fold in the edges so they meet along the drawn line and clip to secure.
The machine should still be threaded with thread to best match the faux suede in the top and bobbin, and the stitch should still be slightly lengthened. We switched to the Quarter Inch Seam foot.
Topstitch along both sides to secure the folds.
Slip the sewn loop through the D-Ring, pulling the ends through until they are flush. And, following the placement marks you made, put the loop into position on the front panel. The raw ends of the loop should be flush with the raw edge of the panel. Machine baste the loop in place. We switched to the Even Feed/Walking foot, which is a standard, and very helpful, accessory for the HD9QC.
Place the exterior and lining layers of the small pocket right sides together with the D-Ring Loop sandwiched between and all raw edges of both layers flush. Pin or clip in place, leaving an approximate 3” opening along one side for turning.
Re-thread with construction thread to best match the exterior in the top and to best matching the lining in the bobbin. Re-set for a standard straight stitch. Re-attach the Straight Stitch foot.
Using a ½” seam allowance, stitch around all four sides. Remember to sharply pivot at each corner and lock your seam at either side of the opening for turning. You might also want to run the seam back and forth across the D-Ring Loop for extra security – although be very careful to keep any additional stitching in line with your original seam.
Clip the corners, carefully turn the pocket right side out through the opening, and pull the D-Ring Loop down into position. Using a long blunt tool, such as a knitting needle, chopstick or point turn, gently push out all the corners so they are as sharp as possible. Press well, pressing in the raw edges along the opening so they are flush with the sewn seam.

Prepare the large pocket

Find these elements for the large lower pocket: the exterior panel, the lining panel, the interfacing panel, and the two Utensil Loops (we’ll address the Towel Loop below).
Also make sure, as you did above, that you’ve transferred the positioning marks for the Utensil Loops and Towel Loop from the paper pattern to the fabric.
As shown in the photos above and below, prepare the Utensil Loops in the same manner as you did above for the D-Ring Loop.
The Towel Loop is prepared sightly differently because it finishes much longer and needs to be thicker in order to be able to handle a heavier load, like a damp towel. First, fold the edges back to the center line as you did above with the other loops.
Then fold in half again, aligning the two folded edges and clip in place.
Re-thread with thread to best match the faux suede in the top and bobbin, and slightly lengthen the stitch. We switched again to an Even Feed/Walking foot on our HD9QC to best hold all the layers flat while stitching. The needle penetration power of the HD9QC is excellent, and it stitched beautifully through all the layers.
Edgestitch just ONE line along the folded edges.
With the three loops complete, use your pattern markings to place them all in position on the right side of the large pocket panel. Note that the Utensil Loops are folded in half but the Towel Loop is flat with its one seam facing down. Machine baste each in place as you did above with the D-Ring Loop.
Re-thread with construction thread to best match the exterior in the top and to best matching the lining in the bobbin. Re-set for a standard straight stitch. Re-attach the Straight Stitch foot.
Place the exterior and lining layers of the large pocket right sides together with the Loops sandwiched between and all raw edges of both layers flush. Pin or clip in place, leaving an approximate 3” opening along the bottom for turning.
Using a ½” seam allowance, stitch around all four sides. Remember to sharply pivot at each corner, including all points of the angled bottom corners, and lock your seam at either side of the opening for turning. As you did above, you might also want to run the seam back and forth across each of the Loops for extra security. Clip the upper corners and the bottom angled corners.
Carefully turn the pocket right side out through the opening and pull all three Loops out into position. Using a long blunt tool, such as a knitting needle, chopstick or point turn, gently push out all the corners so they are as sharp as possible. Press well, pressing in the raw edges along the opening so they are flush with the sewn seam. Use a pressing cloth to protect the faux suede.

NOTE: You are working with thick layers and somewhat bulky seam allowances on both pockets, which means a tiny bit of your lining may want to peek out along the edges. Don’t stress! Although this is visible in the close-ups here within the construction images, it will be barely visible on the finished apron – even less so after laundering and pressing with use.

Mark for the pocket divisions and topstitch across the top of each pocket

You are always welcome to alter the pocket divisions to best match your plans for using the apron. We decided to mark for one vertical dividing line down the center of the large pocket…
… and two narrow “pen pockets” along the right side of the smaller pockets, making our vertical dividing lines 1” from the side edge of the pocket and 1” from this first drawn line.

NOTE: Remember, anytime you are working on the right side of your fabric, make sure your marking tool is one that will easily wipe away or will vanish with exposure to the air or the heat of an iron.
Re-thread the machine with the heavier, contrasting thread you’ve chosen for the main topstitching in the top and bobbin. Slightly lengthen the stitch to match the previous topstitching. We switched to the Quarter Inch Seam foot, which is a standard accessory on the HD9QC, to keep a perfect ¼” line of topstitching.
Stitch across just the top of each pocket.

Place the pockets

Find the apron panel. Place it right side up and flat on your work surface.
Place the upper edge of the small pocket 5½” down from the top raw edge of the apron bib and centered side to side. Place the upper edge of the large pocket 15½” down from the top raw edge of the apron bib and centered side to side.
The raw end of the towel loop should stop ½” from the raw edge of the panel. This is correct as it will be riveted in position at the end of construction through the finished layers.
The machine should still be threaded with the topstitching thread in the top and bobbin and the stitch should still be slightly lengthened. We kept using our Quarter Inch Seam foot with its handy flange to keep our topstitching straight and true.
Edgestitch each pocket in place along both sides and across the bottom, pivoting at the corners. This seam closes the openings used for turning on both pockets.
Re-set to stitch along the dividing lines on each pocket.
Use a substantial backstitch to end each pocket division seam, but be careful to keep the backstitch directly in line with your original stitching. On some machines, you could also opt for a lock stitch to start and end all your division seams.

Sew the exterior to the lining

Find the main lining panel, which has been patiently waiting off to the side all this time. Layer it right sides together with the exterior panel, sandwiching the pockets between the layers. Pin around all the sides, leaving an approximate 5” opening along the bottom for turning. You may want to use clips at the corners to best hold the thicker faux suede in place against the lining.
Before starting, it’s a good idea to clip the towel loop to the pocket to make sure it stays out of the way of the perimeter seam.
Re-thread with construction thread to best match the exterior in the top and to best match the lining in the bobbin. Re-set for a standard straight stitch. Re-attach the Straight Stitch foot.
Using a ½” seam allowance, stitch all the way around the perimeter through both layers. Remember to sharply pivot at the upper and lower corners and to keep your stitching smooth and even around the curved edges of the bib.
When done, clip all the corners…
… and clip the curves along both sides of the bib.
Turn right side out through the bottom opening. Using a long blunt tool, such as a knitting needle, chopstick or point turn, gently push out all the corners so they are as sharp as possible and smooth the curves. Press well, pressing in the raw edges along the opening so they are flush with the sewn seam.
Re-thread the machine with the heavier, contrasting topstitching thread in the top and bobbin. Slightly lengthen the stitch to match the previous topstitching. We switched again to the Quarter Inch Seam foot.
We suggest starting along the bottom of the apron at one side of the opening used for turning. Using a ¼” seam allowance, stitch around the perimeter of the apron, coming all the way back to your starting point, which closes the opening.
When you stitch along the side with the raw end of the towel loop, lift up the end of the loop so you can stitch past it uninterrupted. As mentioned above, this end will be riveted in place at the end of construction.

Add the grommets

Find the four grommets, one for each upper corner and one for each waistline corner.
Each grommet should be tucked snuggly into each corner as shown below and as you can see in our beauty images above.
Use the front grommet piece to trace its inner circle for placement.
Cut out the hole through both layers around the drawn circle.
Insert each grommet, making sure you are putting in the grommet in from the front to the back so it is pretty side out when done.
If you are brand new to setting grommets, it’s actually quite easy and is a hardware accent you can use on many projects. We have a full step-by-step tutorial you can review prior to starting.

Add the the pocket rivets

NOTE: If you prefer the look of keeping the lining side of the apron completely uninterrupted, you could opt to insert the rivets BEFORE the exterior and lining are sewn together. It is really up to you. We added them at the end in order to insure the riveting points were are secure as possible, which traditionally means going through as many layers as possible.

We added two double cap rivets to the upper pocket, one in each corner. There are three double cap rivets across the top of the larger pocket, one in each outer corner and one in the center at the top of the pocket division stitching. In all cases, they help reinforce the pocket’s stress points and add a cool hardware embellishment.
For all the rivet points, cut your original hole for the rivet stud near but not on the stitching. Most double cap rivets are inserted from back to front with the front cap then snapped onto the stud and sealed with a post, anvil, and hammer.
If you are brand new to working with rivets, just like the grommets above, it’s easier than you might think. Our two strongest recommendations are to make sure you have the correct setting tools to match the size of your rivets and to use a very hard surface to hammer against for the best seal of the two parts of the rivets. We like to use a small block of granite.
You can also check out our Metal Rivets Tutorial, which contains additional details and techniques.

Wrap the ends of the straps, add the swivel clips + rivets

Find all the elements for the straps: two 60” lengths of webbing, two faux leather Strap Trim pieces, two swivel clips, the remaining four rivets, your sewing clips, and the lighter.
Use the lighter to melt both ends of both lengths of webbing. Just passing each end through the flame a couple times is perfect; you don’t need to set anything on fire!
Place one Strap Trim piece wrong side up on your work surface. Align one length of webbing with the long right edge of the Strap Trim. As shown in the photo below, the top of the webbing should be placed just slightly down from the top of the strap trim. Clip the webbing to the faux suede.
Wrap the strap trim around the webbing, flipping it so it is now right side up. Make sure your wrap is nice and tight, and clip again.
Then, wrap one more time, bringing the trim around to the back once again
It is important the wrap is nice and tight and that the cut edge is not flush with the fold but just short of it. This allows the front of the strap to be completely smooth but still insures the cut edge will be captured in the final topstitching.
Re-thread the machine with the thread to best match the faux suede in the top and bobbin. Slightly lengthen the stitch to match the previous topstitching. We switched back to an EvenFeed/Walking foot.
Edgestitch around the faux suede, creating a pretty box.
One of the great things about using the Janome HD9QC for this project was its ability to power through the thick layers – even along thick edges. If you feel your machine isn’t up to the task, 1) consider test driving a Janome, and 2) you could simply add just one vertical line of topstitching to secure the wrap. Faux suede doesn’t ravel, so there’s no need to worry about finishing any of the edges.
Slip the sewn end of the webbing through a swivel clip and fold it almost in half. It should be just shy of even, which keeps the ends from becoming too bulky one on top of the other, allowing for a flatter, tighter finish.
Insert two rivets as shown below. Your two initial holes should be punched with one near but not on the stitching and one near but not too close to the swivel clips.
Repeat to wrap the second length of webbing.

One last rivet

Remember that one raw end of the towel loop? It’s time. Bring it straight across, flush with the side edge of the apron, and add one last rivet through all the layers. There are quite a few layers at this point, so you’ll want to use your rivet hole tool and/or even an awl to cut all the way through the layers. And, as we mentioned above, make sure you do your final hammering to seal the rivets on a very hard surface.
Don’t forget to review our Metal Rivets Tutorial, which contains additional details and techniques.
With everything complete, you can hook the swivel clips through the grommets. The straps should criss cross at the back and thread through the waistline grommets back to front, allowing them to be cinched tight and tied at the back.