Sometimes, it’s sleek simplicity you’re looking for. Other times, pulling out all the bells and whistles is what makes a project, and your heart, sing. Our Happy Garden Patchwork Sling combines several of your favorite things in one beautiful bag: embroidery, decorative stitching, lettering, ribbons, and patchwork. It’s a bag that is “happy to be scrappy!”

Thanks to a sponsorship from Janome America, we used the Continental M17. It’s a powerful, flexible model that gave us the tools to do everything: over 1,200 built-in embroidery designs, including a selection of alphabets for the embroidered lettering we featured on the front and back panels of the bag, plus 850 stitches. We selected a lacy flower to embroider onto two of the patchwork blocks along with decorative stitches from the CM17’s Botanical Collection. We show you how to mark, measure, and stitch six parallel lines to embellish the side and base panels as well as the straps.

The pretty patchwork can be done with scraps or pre-cuts. We used Layer Cakes from a variety of designers and manufacturers, proving you don’t have to pull from a single collection to get a wonderful look. For our S4H secrets on mixing and matching, take a look at our tutorial: Top 10 Designer Tips for Blending Colors and Prints.

We certainly understand not everyone is ready to immediately step up to a top-of-the-line sewing and embroidery model, but when you see what’s available on the CM17, it’s an window into all the creative potential. With any hobby, you start with the basics. Then, as your skills grow, your tools grow with you. Janome machines, from the entry level on up, all have incredible power, precision, and reliability. With that as your base, you can decide which directions you want to head: more stitches from which to choose, embroidery capability, specialized quilting features, bed space, and more. When you visit a local Janome dealer (always our #1 recommendation) come with a list of the projects most important to you and test out a variety of models to help you decide the next step you want to take on your sewing/quilting/embroidery journey.

As always, there are detailed instructions and photos to take you through all the construction steps. We’ve added extra notes on stabilization, like how to use spray starch to prep for your decorative stitching, and which presser feet can make things faster and easier. We especially loved using the Janome Border Guide foot, which has “wings” to either side that make it a snap to keep multiple lines of stitching perfectly even.

You’ll notice we kept our thread color tone-on-tone for the decorative stitching. We wanted the interest and the texture, but we didn’t want to draw too much focus away from the main patchwork panels. Of course, all the final colors and fabrics are up to you, which is one of the best parts of sewing. Making it your own!

There’s a generous pocket on the front and a lining pocket, but the main bag is designed as a simple box to give you plenty of space to carry what you need. It has a wonderfully soft feel, thanks to a layer of standard cotton batting. The tapered straps come up and knot at the shoulder so you can adjust the carrying height for your comfort.

The lining is a standard quilting cotton in a neutral color, but we wanted to bring the “happy scrappiness” inside. The interior seam allowances are bound with custom bias binding made from leftover bias cuts of our pretty prints – even decorative stitched scraps, creating a colorful outline inside the bag. This seam finishing is optional, but oh-so pretty!

Gorgeous ribbons accent the bag’s top binding and highlight the top of each pocket. We recommend a woven ribbon, like a jacquard rather than a printed ribbon for the best patterns and strongest color. It needs to be able to hold its own against the bold patchwork.

The finished sling bag is summertime style that is as fun to make as it is to wear. The dominance of florals within our patchwork lent itself to the Happy Garden phrase we used for the front and back lettering. Pick up our wording or design your own to match your fabrics, colors, and theme. We used the Script embroidery monogram alphabet on the Janome CM17, enlarging it to 110% to fill each of the two solid color blocks.

A shout out again to Janome America for their support of this project and many of our other most popular projects. To find out more about the amazing Janome machines, visit their website, follow them on social media, and – as we described above – visit a local dealer with your wish list in hand for an in-person test stitch.

Our Happy Garden Patchwork Sling finishes at approximately 12” wide x 14” high x 4” deep with an inset base panel and two 24” tapered straps to knot together.

Sewing Tools You Need

• Sewing Machine and standard presser foot – for the embellished blocks, you need a model with embroidery capability or an embroidery-only machine
• Border Guide foot; optional – a Janome specialty presser foot with “wings” to either side that feature guidelines to help you keep multiple lines of stitching parallel and precise — love it!
• Embroidery foot
• We recommend an Even Feed/Walking foot or engaging your machine’s built-in feeding system for the in-the-ditch quilting; we used the Janome AcuFeed™ Flex built-in fabric feeding system with the AcuFeed™ Open Toe Satin Stitch foot – you could also opt for an AcuFeed Ditch Quilting foot or even a standard Ditch Quilting foot

Fabric and Other Supplies

• 1½ yards of 44”+ quilting weight cotton in a neutral solid color for two patchwork blocks, the lining, as well as the ties, side panels, and center base panel; we used Bella Solids in Pearl from Moda Fabrics
• NINE 10” x 10” Layer Cake Squares; our squares came from a variety of leftovers in our S4H stash, representing several different manufacturers and designers – if you choose not to use Layer Cakes, pay attention to the cut sizes below in the Getting Started section and pull your patchwork pieces from your own favorite scraps.
  NOTE: As mentioned above, if you’d like to learn some of our S4H secrets for mixing and matching, take a look at our tutorial: Top 10 Designer Tips for Blending Colors and Prints.
• Low loft cotton batting: batting comes in a variety of widths on the bolt as well as packaged options. You need an 18” x 40” piece; a “craft size”package would also fit the bill.
• ¾ yard of lightweight fusible WOVEN interfacing for the pockets and the ties – the non-woven options will not allow the flexibility needed for the ties; we used Pellon Shape-Flex
• 2 yards of 20” wide tearaway stabilizer for the embroidery and decorative stitching
• 1 yard of ¼” wide fusible seam tape; such as Warm Company’s Steam-A-Seam
• ⅝ yard of ⅜” wide ribbon for the top of both pockets (exterior and lining)
• 1 yard of ⅝” wide ribbon for the top of the bag accent/binding
• 40wt cotton thread for embroidery and decorative stitching; we used a very light greenish gray for the decorative stitching and then chose THREE colors from within our patchwork to highlight for the embroidery: spring green and bright orange for the lacy flowers, and creamsicle orange for the lettering.
  NOTE: As mentioned above, we recommend a tone-on-tone color choice for the decorative stitching as the best look to add texture without distracting from the colorful patchwork, however, all color options are always up to you.
• All-purpose thread to match fabric for construction
• Invisible thread; optional, our choice when sewing ribbons
• Bobbin thread; we used white pre-wound bobbins
• See-through ruler
• Fabric pen or pencil
• Iron and ironing board
• Scissors
• Rotary cutter and mat
• Seam gauge
• Seam ripper
• Straight pins
• Spray starch; optional – our recommendation for the decorative stitching and the embroidery

Getting Started and Pattern Download

1. Download and print out TWO copies of our pattern sheets, which contain Strap Part A, Part B, Part C, and Part D. These two sheets have been bundled into ONE PDF to make the download easier.
   
   IMPORTANT: Each page of the PDF is ONE 8½” x 11″ sheet. You must print the PDF file at 100%. DO NOT SCALE to fit the page. There is a guide rule on each page to confirm your printout is to size. Print horizontally (landscape).
   Cut out all four pattern pieces along the solid lines. Butt together the pieces at the arrows as indicated on the pattern pieces. Do not overlap. Tape together to form both copies of the complete pattern. Keep one pattern as-is to use to cut the final ties. Trim the other set along the dotted seam allowance line to use to cut the interfacing.
   
2. From the solid color quilting cotton (Pearl in our sample), cut the following:
   THREE 9” wide x 8½” high wide panels for the front pocket lining and both layers of the interior pocket
   FOUR 6” high x 44” wide (WOF-width of fabric) strips from which the decorative-stitched ties, exterior side panels, and center base panel will be cut
   ONE 15” high x WOF strip – from this strip sub-cut the following pieces for all the lining panels:
   TWO at 15” high x 13” wide – for the main front and back panels
   THREE at 15” high x 5” wide – then trim ONE of these three down to 13” high x 5” wide – the taller pieces are the side panels, the slightly shorter piece is the base panel
3. From the remaining solid fabric, cut the following for the top binding and the lettering panels:
   TWO 2¼” x 17” strips
   TWO 5” x 10 panels
4. For the patchwork, we’ve included a drawing you can follow with letters indicating each block. These letters and descriptions of our chosen motifs are in the cut list below as well as within the instructions so you can easily follow along to cut and assemble the pieces from your own Layer Cakes and/or scraps.
   
5. Our motifs were all random; if you are working with directional motifs, note that the cuts listed below are all width x height. And, in all instances, we recommend measuring on your cutting mat with a see-through ruler and cutting to size with a rotary cutter.
   
6. From the Green Stripe – A: cut TWO 5” x 5”
7. From the Green Leaf Print – B: cut TWO 5” x 5” and ONE 5” x 4½”
8. From the Light Orange with Small White Flowers – C: cut ONE 9” x 8½”
9. From the Large Yellow and Purple Floral – D: cut ONE 9” x 8½”
10. From the Orange Dot – E: cut TWO 5” x 5”
11. From the Orange, Yellow and Red Garland – F: Cut ONE 5” x 5” – our garlands were cut to run vertically
12. From the Light Orange with Medium White Flowers – G: cut ONE 5” x 4½” and TWO 5” x 3½”
13. From the Large Multi Color Floral – H: cut ONE 9” x 8½”
14. From the Orange and White Daisy Floral – I: cut ONE 5” x 5” and FOUR 5” x 3¼”
    NOTE: Set aside all your scraps from both the patchwork cutting and the solid cutting. These will be used at the end of the project for the optional colorful interior binding.
15. From the woven fusible interfacing, cut the following:
    TWO 8” x 7½” pieces for the pockets
    Using the assembled tie pattern you trimmed along the dotted seam allowance, cut TWO
    
16. From batting, cut the following:
    TWO 13” x 15” rectangles
    TWO 5” x 15” rectangles
    ONE 5” x 13” rectangle
17. From tearaway stabilizer, cut EIGHT 4” x 20” strips. Keep the remaining stabilizer to cut for the hooped embroidery.

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

Decorative Stitching

1. Thread the machine with your chosen 40wt cotton thread color in the top and bobbin thread in the bobbin. Set up the machine for standard sewing. If possible, attach the Janome Border Guide foot. If you do not have this foot, you can draw in additional guide lines and use a standard Satin Stitch foot or Open Toe Satin Stitch foot. Our notes below show specifics using the Border Guide foot.
   
2. Find the FOUR 6” x WOF strips in the solid color cotton. Spray starch each strip and let dry. This step is optional, but the spray starch adds an extra bit of crispness to these long, parallel lines of stitching for the most beautiful finish.
3. Find the EIGHT 4” x 20” strips of tearaway stabilizer. Center two strips of stabilizer end to end on each 6” strip of solid color cotton, which means there will be 1” of fabric showing beyond the stabilizer on each side. There will be a bit more fabric extending at each end. This is okay.
4. Baste the stabilizer in place along both sides, ¼” in from the edge of the stabilizer.
   
5. On right side of each strip, mark a line 2” in from each long raw edge, which means there will be a 2” space between the lines at the center of the strip. These first marked lines are the center lines for the two triplets of stitching lines.
   NOTE: Whenever you are working on the right side of your fabric, use a marking tool that will easily wipe away or vanish with exposure to the air or the heat of any iron. 
   
6. Select your stitches. We chose stitches 23 and 24 at a 9mm width from the Botanical Collection on our Janome CM17. For our trio, stitch 24 was the design for the center line and stitch 23 was used for both outer lines.
7. Stitch along each drawn line with the center stitch selection. Work slowly, just gently guiding the fabric, keeping the strip slack so it can move back and forth freely.
   NOTE: For long lines of decorative stitching, we suggest using your Start/Stop button rather than the foot control. Even though you might not notice it, you’re likely to change speed with foot pressure, which can cause tiny imperfections in the stitch formation. Using the Start/Stop takes away this issue.
   
8. When both center lines are complete, set up for the second decorative stitch. Use the markings on the Border Guide foot to position this next line of stitching to the right of the center line. As you can see in the photo below, we used the first red mark to the left of the needle as a guide along the left edge of the center line.
   
   NOTE: Our chosen patterns were stitched at 9mm in width. Anytime you are planning decorative stitching, you should first practice your stitch patterns and spacing on scraps to ensure you have the look you want. Our trio of final lines finished approximately ⅛” apart. If you do not have a Border Guide foot, you should draw in all six necessary guidelines.
9. Turn the strip around to start the final outer line of this first trio. Notice we did not “flip” the stitch on the machine’s edit screen to create a mirror image. Instead, by simply stitching from the opposite end, our two outer lines are both facing out.
   
10. Repeat these same steps to finish the second trio of stitching lines. Then, repeat the whole thing on the remaining three 6” x WOF strips.
    NOTE: Because of how wide the ties are and the fact they knot together at the top, we felt it was important that both the front AND the back of the ties featured decorative stitching. This way, the ties are beautiful from all angles.
    
11. When all the strips are complete, remove the basting stitches and tear away the excess stabilizer. Press from the wrong side.
    

Cutting the Exterior Ties, Side Panels, and Center Base Panel

1. Find the assembled tie pattern – the full pattern with the seam allowance in place.
2. From each decorative-stitched strip, cut one tie using the tie pattern. Position the pattern toward one end of each strip with the decorative stitching centered. You need the excess fabric beyond the tie pattern for additional cuts!
   
3. From the excess, cut TWO 5” x 12¼” panels for the exterior side panels, ONE one 5” x7½” panel for the exterior center base panel.
   

Embroidery of the front and back word blocks

1. Set up the machine for embroidery with 40wt cotton in the color selected for the words featured on the front and back panels (creamsicle orange on our sample) on top and bobbin thread in the bobbin. Attach an Embroidery foot; the P foot on the CM17.
2. Find the two 5” x 10” pieces of solid color cotton. Starch each piece of fabric and let dry (as above – this step is optional but recommended when using a lot of embroidery or decorative stitching on lighter weight cotton).
3. On the machine, select the Edit screen. Select Lettering. From the available fonts on the CM17, we chose Script in the large size. Type in your first word; our word was Happy.
   
4. On the Edit Screen, select the word. Enlarge it to 110%. Center the word on the screen.
   
5. Click OK to take it to the Ready to Embroider screen.
   
   NOTE: Our steps are summarized here and show the CM17 screens. The embroidery steps on your model may be different, but are likely to be similar. As with the decorative stitching above, it’s always a good idea to do test stitch-outs on scraps first to confirm sizing, thread color/contrast against the fabric, etc. Practice makes perfect!
6. Hoop two layers of tearaway stabilizer.
7. Place the hoop on the machine. Place the fabric over the hoop, centering it top to bottom and side to side.
8. Use the Baste function to secure the fabric in place.
   
9. Embroider the first word.
   
10. Remove the hoop from the machine and remove the fabric from the hoop. Tear away the excess stabilizer from the back of the embroidery, remove the basting stitches, and press from the wrong side.
11. Repeat these steps for the second word; our second word was Garden.

Embroidery of the front and back flower blocks

1. Locate the two 5” A Squares – the Green Stripe in our sample.
2. Hoop two layers of tearaway stabilizer.
3. Select your chosen embroidery design. We used a built-in flower design from the Embroidery Lace Designs collection on the CM17. It is a two-color design, but we opted to stitch it as one-color for each block: spring green for the front and bright orange for the back.
   
4. Place the hoop on the machine.
5. We are starting with the back flower which is perfectly centered within its square. Mark the center of one square of fabric. Center the fabric on the hoop and use the Baste function to secure it in place.
6. Embroider the flower.
   
7. Remove the hoop from the machine, peel off the fabric square, remove the basting stitches, and remove the excess stabilizer from the back. Press from the wrong side.
8. The second  square is embroidered with a green flower in the same manner, but the flower is embroidered ¼“ below the center mark. This slight positioning difference accounts for the ribbon around the top of the bag.
9. Here are all four of our beautiful embroideries.
   
10. The floral blocks are okay as-is. But, each word block needs to be trimmed down to its final 3½” x 9” size with the embroidery centered.
    

Prepare the pockets – exterior and lining

As we move into the construction phases, note that all seams are sewn with a ½” seam allowance unless otherwise indicated.

1. Find the elements for the exterior and lining pockets: the three 9” x 8½” pieces of solid color cotton, the 9” x 8½” D Piece – the Large Yellow and Purple Floral in our sample, the two 8” x 7½” pieces of lightweight fusible stabilizer, and the ⅝ yard of ⅜” wide ribbon for the pocket tops.
2. Center one fusible interfacing panel on the wrong side of one of the solid color pocket pieces. Center the second fusible interfacing panel on the wrong side of the floral print D piece. In both cases, there should be ½” of fabric showing beyond the interfacing on all sides. Following manufacturer’s instructions, fuse in place.
   
3. Place the floral print pocket D piece right sides together with a plain solid color pocket piece, right sides together. Pin along one of the 9” sides (if using a directional fabric, this seam will become the top of the pocket).
   
4. Repeat to place the remaining solid color pocket pieces right sides together and pin along one of the 9” sides.
5. Set up your machine for ordinary sewing with all purpose thread to best match your fabrics in the top and the bobbin. Attach a standard presser foot.
6. Sew across the pinned side of both pockets. Press open both seam allowances.
   
7. The next step is to apply the decorative ribbon. This will create the finished upper edge of each pocket. We feel this type of brightly colored woven ribbon looks best when stitched with invisible thread, so at this time, we changed our upper thread to invisible thread. If you prefer not to use invisible thread, re-thread with an all purpose thread in a color that best matches your ribbon.
8. Flip the exterior pocket right side up so it is flat with the front D panel to the left and the lining panel to the right. Place the ribbon onto the pocket, aligning one edge of the ribbon along the seam line so the ribbon is overlapping onto the front panel.
9. Edgestitch in place along the edge of the ribbon aligned with the seam.
   
10. When complete, fold the pocket along the upper seam so the panels are now wrong sides together. Press well.
    
11. Edgestitch along the remaining lower edge of the ribbon through all layers.
    
12. By going through all the layers in this manner, the top of the pocket is very stable.
    
13. Add the ribbon to the lining pocket in a similar manner. But do NOT stitch along the lower edge of the ribbon on the lining pocket. That will be completed later when the pocket is finished and attached to the lining panel.
14. It’s okay that the ribbon extends a bit at either end. It will be trimmed flush later in the process.
    
15. Replace the invisible thread with all purpose thread to best match the patchwork fabrics; we used an off-white throughout.

Assemble the front and back patchwork panels

Remember, all seams are sewn with a ½” seam allowance unless otherwise indicated.

1. Referring to the drawing above, arrange the three pieces that will form the upper left corner of the front panel (B, I, and C in our sample).
   
2. Stitch the two 5” squares together, (B and I).
   
3. Stitch this sewn panel onto the larger piece (C).
4. All ½” seams are pressed open and flat.
   
5. Placed the three-piece sewn panel right side up and flat on your work surface. Lay the pocket in place over the larger piece (C). The upper edge of the pocket should align with the seam line. If your ribbon extended beyond the pocket top on either side, trim it flush now. Baste the pocket to the pieced unit along both sides and across the bottom, staying within the ½” seam allowance.
   
6. Again referring to the drawing above, arrange the three pieces to the right of the pocket unit (A with its embroidery, E, and D). Stitch these three pieces together into a vertical strip. Press all seams open
   
7. Place this sewn strip right sides together with the pocket unit, matching the seams as needed. Stitch together and press the seam allowance open and flat.
   
8. Stitch the front lettering block to the remaining front piece (G in our sample).
   
9. Place this bottom row right sides together with the main panel and stitch across to close the the bottom of the pocket and complete the front panel’s patchwork.
10. The back panel is completed in the same manner. It is simply a mirror image of the front panel and there is no pocket.
    

Complete the exterior sides and base panels

1. Find the decorative-stitched strips for the exterior side panels and center bottom panel.
2. Find the four 5” x 3¼” I pieces – the Orange and White Daisy Floral.
3. Match one I piece to one end of each of the 12¼” decorative side panel strips.
   
4. Sew the pieces together with a ¼” seam allowance.
5. Press the seam toward the print fabric.
6. Add the remaining two I pieces to each end of the 7½” decorative center bottom panel.
7. Sew the pieces together with a ¼” seam allowance and press the seam toward the print fabric.
   

Apply the batting and quilt all the exterior panels

1. Find the five batting panels: front, back, two sides, and base. Match each batting panel to its appropriate exterior panel and pin in place.
   
2. Baste each piece to the batting, using a lengthened stitch. Run this basting stitch 7/16” in from the edge (just within the ½” seam allowance).
   
3. Trim back the batting to the basting seam along the sides and across the bottom on the front and back panels and the side panels, leaving the batting flush with the upper edge of all the panels. On the base panel, trim the batting back to the basting line on all four sides.
   
4. We recommend an Even Feed/Walking foot or engaging your machine’s built-in feeding system for the in-the-ditch quilting; we used the Janome AcuFeed™ Flex built-in fabric feeding system with the AcuFeed™ Open Toe Satin Stitch foot – you could also opt for an AcuFeed Ditch Quilting foot or even a standard Ditch Quilting foot
5. Use a “stitch in the ditch” technique for all the quilting. This means you are following along each seam line, stitching through the layers. Do this on all the seams on the front and back panels…
   
6. … including pulling back the front pocket top to stitch the seam line behind it.
   
7. And stitch in the ditch on the sides and base between the decorative-stitched panels and the print fabric.
   

Prepare the ties

1. Find the four tie pieces with their decorative stitching along with the two matching pieces of woven fusible interfacing.
2. Center interfacing on the wrong side of two of the ties. Following manufacturer’s instructions, fuse in place.
   
3. Place each interfaced tie right sides together with a plain tie. Pin in place.
   
4. Stitch together, along the sides and around the tapered end. You are stitching right along the edge of the interfacing. Leave the straight end unsewn.
   
5. Trim back the seam allowance on the tapered end of each tie to ⅛”.
6. Turn each tie right side out through its open end. Reach in with a long, blunt tool to smooth out the tapered ends. A long knitting needle, chopstick or point turner all work well.
   
7. Press flat.
   

Finish the lining pocket and apply to the back lining panel

Just another reminder, all seams are sewn with a ½” seam allowance unless otherwise indicated.

1. Find the lining pocket, which should have the upper accent ribbon in place with ONE line of stitching.
2. Re-fold the pocket right sides together so all the raw edges along the sides and bottom are flush.
3. Stitch along both sides only. The bottom of the pocket remains unsewn.
4. Turn the pocket right side out and press well.
   
5. Fold in and press the bottom raw edges ½” to match the sewn seam.
6. Align these folded edges and pin.
   
7. We’re back to the ribbon, which for us means a re-thread with invisible thread in the top. As above, you could choose to re-thread with standard all purpose thread, but do take the take to re-thread with thread that best matches your ribbon. Yes, it’s the inside of the bag, but it’s little details like this that give you a professional finish.
8. Remember that lower edge of the ribbon you left unstitched above? Edgestitch now along that lower edge.
   
9. As with the front pocket, you now have a sturdy pocket top.
   
10. Change back to all purpose thread in the top to best match your fabrics.
11. Select a large lining piece for the tote lining back. Both pieces are the same, so simply pick your favorite. Place the lining panel right side up and flat on your work surface. Place the pocket unit right side up on the lining panel, centering it side to side and 3” up from the lower raw edge. Pin in place along both sides and across the bottom.
    
12. Edgestitch the pocket in place along both sides and across the bottom, sharply pivoting at each bottom corner. This secures the pocket in place and closes the open bottom. Press the pocket and panel flat.

Create the optional colorful interior bias binding

1. From the leftover Layer Cake scraps and any other coordinating scraps you have on hand, cut 2” bias strips. We even used our leftover decorative-stitched scraps, cutting them into 2” bias strips.
   
2. Join the pieces randomly to create a bias strip approximately 3 yards in length.
   
3. This will be used to finish the interior seams of the tote.
   
   NOTE: We love the look of this colorful outline inside the tote, but it is optional. You could finish the seams with standard packaged bias binding in a matching or coordinating color or even choose your favorite machine sewn finishing stitch. Don’t have a favorite? Check out our four-part series on machine sewn seam finishes.

Layer the lining panels with the exterior panels, assemble, and bind the side seam allowances

1. Find all the lining panels: front panel, back panel, two side panels, and the base panel.
2. Layer a lining panel wrong sides together with each exterior panel. All raw edges of each layer should be flush. Pin in place.
   
3. With all the panels layered, you can begin assembly of the flat layers into a tube. We started by matching a layered side panel right sides together with the layered front panel. Pin in place.
   
4. Stitch together, still using our standard ½” seam allowance. We also continued to use our AcuFeed™ Flex fabric feeding system for excellent control of these thicker layers.
   
5. With the seam sewn, cut a length of binding just a big longer that the seam itself and place the binding strip behind the seam allowance – right sides together with the seam allowance.
   
6. Stitch together along the previous line of stitching. Remember, you are just working with the seam allowance; do not stitch into the body of the bag.
   
7. Press the bias strip away from the seam.
   
8. Press under the raw edge of the binding ¼”.
9. Wrap the bias strip around the seam allowance so it covers the line of stitching. Pin in place.
   
10. From the front side of the binding, edgestitch the binding in place through all layers. Trim away the excess binding at the top and bottom of the seam so the binding is flush with the panels.
    
11. Repeat these steps to continue to assemble the side panels to the front and back panels, binding each seam as you go.
    

Inset the base panel and apply the binding to its seam allowance

1. Set the layered base panel into the open bottom of the tote, aligning the corners of the base panel with the side panel seams.
   
2. Stitch each long side first. The pin and stitch to stitch the sides.
   
   NOTE: If you are brand new to inserting a base panel into a tube, we have a full step-by-step tutorial you can review prior to starting.
3. Apply the binding in the same manner as you did with the side seams. First stitching flat against the seam allowance…
   
4. … then folding in the raw edge and wrapping around the seam allowance to stitch in place. Don’t forget to generously clip the corners of the base panel prior to wrapping for the smoothest finish.
   

Set the ties into position, create the top ribbon-accented binding, stitch all around to finish

1. Match the raw, straight end of each tie to the upper edge of the bag on the inside of the bag so each tie is exactly in line with a side panel and the tapered ends are hanging down inside the bag. Pin in place.
   
2. Locate the TWO 2½” x 17” strips for the upper edge finish. Sew together at one end, creating a strip approximately 33” in length.
3. Press the seam allowance open and flat, then press back one long raw edge ½”.
   
4. Flip over the strip so it is right side up. Find the ¼” fusible seam tape and the ⅝” decorative ribbon.
5. Run a strip of fusible seam tape along the folded edge. Place the ribbon over the seam tape so the edge of the ribbon runs right along the fold.
   
6. Following manufacturer’s instructions, fuse the ribbon in place.
7. Unfold the ½” fold just in order to sew the ends together to form a loop. Once sewn, fold back into position.
8. Pin the binding loop to the upper edge of the bag, aligning the raw edge of the binding loop with the top raw edge of bag. The ribbon side of the binding loop is against the lining of the bag. Pin in place all around. As you go around, you are sandwiching the ends of the ties between the main panels and the binding.
   
9. Working from the inside, so you can best see the binding, use a ½” seam allowance to stitch all around the top through all the layers. We switched back to our Janome AcuFeed™ Flex fabric feeding system to handle all the layers. We recommend you do the same or at least switch to an Even Feed/Walking foot for the best control.
   
10. Bring the binding strip around to the right side of the bag, covering the line of stitching with the folded edge and revealing the pretty ribbon against the front of the bag. Pin in place.
11. Re-thread the machine with invisible thread in the top (our choice) or at least with thread that best matches your ribbon. For the next step, leave the ties hanging down inside the tote. Edgestitch along the lower edge of the ribbon all around the bag. This secures the binding loop in place.
12. Bring up the ties and pin them into their upright position, which should be directly in line with the side panels.
    
13. Edgestitch along the upper edge of the ribbon, doubly securing the binding as well as securing the ties in their upright position.
    

Project Design: Anne Adams
Sample Creation and Construction Techniques: Michele Mishler