I did quite a bit of searching to find out where/how prairie points got their name. In doing this, I discovered quite a bit about prairie dogs, the ecosystems of Kansas prairies, and even Prairie vodka. However, the history of these cute little triangles in the world of sewing and quilting seems a bit vague. There was one posting about their possible start as a trim on undergarments in the mid-1800s. If you are a prairie point historian, leave us a comment and let us know the real scoop. While we're waiting, let's make a few prairie points to adorn a pretty pillow done in Marmalade by Bonnie & Camille for Moda Fabrics. There are 32 points around the edge; including clever mitered corners, which we show you how to make, plus three along the back as buttonhole accents. And, in case you were wondering, prairie dogs are considered to have one of the most sophisticated communication systems in the animal kingdom.
Our thanks to Moda Fabrics for sponsoring this month's series. We have over three weeks of projects and how-to tutorials to get you through the holidays and thinking about those 2013 sewing resolutions. Thanks as well to accompanying sponsor, Fat Quarter Shop for providing the Charm Packs for today's sample pillows.
Marmalade by Bonnie & Camille for Moda came out in October 2012, and is still widely available from many of your favorite online and in-store Moda retailers. We found a great selection at these Sew4Home Marketplace vendors: Fat Quarter Shop, The Ribbon Retreat, and Bloomerie. It is available in both a standard quilting cotton (which we used) as well as a soft flannel.
Sewing Tools You Need
Any Sewing Machine (we recommend the Janome HD 3000)
Fabric and Other Supplies
Supplies listed below are for one 20" pillow.
- ¾ yard of 44-45" wide fabric for the pillow front: we used Cotton Cream Apron from the Marmalade collection by Bonnie & Camille for Moda Fabrics
- ¾ yard of 44-45" wide fabric for the pillow back: we used Cotton Leaf Jam from the Marmalade collection by Bonnie & Camille for Moda Fabrics
NOTE: You need the full width of the fabric (at least 44") to get all the cuts to fit. If you are worried about your cutting skills or have a strong motif to fussy cut, get 1¼ yards in order to stack the cuts vertically rather than horizontally.
- One Charm Pack: we used a Charm Pack from the Marmalade collection by Bonnie & Camille for Moda Fabrics
NOTE: Each pillow uses 35 of the 42 5" x 5" squares that come in a standard Moda Charm Pack. If you choose not to use a Charm Pack, you would need to cut 35 coordinating 5" squares.
- Three 1" buttons; we used three vintage-style white buttons purchased locally
- One 20" x 20" pillow insert; we used a Soft Touch® insert by Fairfield
- All-purpose sewing thread in colors to match fabrics
- Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
- See-through ruler
- Tape measure
- Fabric pencil or pen
- Straight pins
- Hand sewing needle
- Iron and ironing board
- From the fabric for the pillow front (Cotton Cream Apron from the Marmalade collection by Bonnie & Camille in our sample), cut ONE 20" x 20" square.
- From the fabric for the pillow back (Cotton Leaf Jam Bloom from the Marmalade collection by Bonnie & Camille in our sample), cut the following:
TWO 10½" x 20" high rectangles for the back overlap
ONE 22" wide x 20" high rectangle for the back underlap
- Select 32 squares from the charm park and arrange them in an order that is pleasing to you. Alternate both color as well as motif size to get a pleasing pattern. Select an additional 3 squares for the back points.
At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board
- Make 32 prairie points, eight per side for a 20" x 20" pillow.
- To make a point. Fold a charm square in half, wrong sides together, to create a wide triangle and press.
- Fold this triangle in half again to create a smaller triangle. Press again.
- Arrange the prairie points in four groups of eight.
- Place the first prairie point flat on your work surface with its "open edge" facing right. Slide the second prairie point in the sequence in between the layers of the first until its left-most point is at the exact center of the first triangle.
- Repeat this tuck-to-the-center pattern until you have a finished row of eight.
- You'll have what looks like a colorful mountain range when all four rows are complete.
- Our pillow's corners come together with a pretty side-by-side miter.
- Place the 20" x 20" front square right side up on your work surface.
- Position one row of prairie points along one edge. The points will extend beyond the front square to the left edge by half a triangle; on the right, the points are in line with the square's edge. Below you can see how ours extended to the left.
- Unfold the prairie point on the left edge.
- Fold in the 90˚ corner to meet the opposite folded edge. Press.
- Fold the upper corner back down into place, aligning the bottom edges once again and forming an upper square. Press.
- Unfold the prairie point on the right edge.
- Fold in each point so they meet at the center fold (a little like you're making a paper airplane). Press.
- Fold the prairie point back into place along the original center crease, aligning the bottom edges once again and forming an upper square. Press.
Attach points to pillow front
- Slide the entire row into position on the right side of the front square so the raw edges of the prairie points are flush with the raw edge of the pillow square. The right and left mitered points should each be ½" in from the corner. Pin in place.
- Machine baste the prairie points row in place, staying within the ½" seam allowance.
- Repeat to create mitered corners for the other three sides of the pillow, then pin and machine baste in place. At each corner fold the mitered points on top of one another and pin so they will not get caught up into the final seam.
- Find the remaining three charm squares and make three additional prairie points, following the steps above.
- Find the two 10½" x 20" overlap panels.
- Place the three prairie points along the one 20" wide of one panel. One prairie point should be in the exact center; the other two to either side of the center point. Overlap the points as shown below.
- Pin the prairie points in place so their raw edges are flush with the raw edge of the panel.
- Layer the second 10½" x 20" overlap panel right sides together with the first, sandwiching the points between the layers. Pin along just the 20" edge with the prairie points.
- Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch along this 20" side through all the layers.
- Fold the panels wrong sides together so the prairie points extend from the seam.
- Following the manual for your sewing machine, make a buttonhole in the center of each prairie point.
- Find the 22" x 20" back underlap panel.
- Fold the panel in half, wrong sides together, so it is now 11" x 20". Press.
- Place the pillow front (with all the prairie points machine basted in place) right side up and flat on your work surface.
- Place the back overlap panel right sides together over the left half, aligning the raw edges of the front and back panels. Pin in place.
- Place the folded underlap panel over the right half, aligning the raw edges of these two front and back panels and covering the prairie point buttonholes. Pin in place.
- Stitch together through all layers around all four sides, using a ½" seam allowance and pivoting at the corners. Go slowly and make sure your layers stay flat.
- Clip the corners diagonally. Be careful not to clip into your seam or your pretty prairie points.
- Turn right side out through the back opening.
- Gently poke out the corners from the inside using a long, blunt-end tool, such as a knitting needle or chopstick.
- Pull out the prairie points all around. Un-pin the mitered corner pieces. If needed, pick out any stray basting stitches with your seam ripper.
- Sew a button in place to align with each buttonhole.
- Insert your pillow form through the envelope opening and fluff it out into the corners.
Project Design: Alicia Thommas
Sample Creation and Instructions: Michele Mishler