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Baby Gifts: Pretty Bird Quick Trip Diaper Bag

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Our smaller (and cuter) diaper bag isn't meant to supplant the full-size, workhorse of a diaper bag; you know the one I mean... the one that holds enough stuff to open your own nursery school. Nope. This one is perfect to grab and go for short jaunts out and about. It's still big enough, with pockets inside and outside, to hold the essentials: several diapers, wipes, a couple bottles, a special blankie or toy, even your own wallet and keys. The outside fabric is our fave Pretty Bird from Pillow & Maxfield for Michael Miller Fabrics; the inside is the popular PUL waterproof fabric.

The finished bag is approximately 14" wide and 14" tall with a 6" x 14" bottom panel, and 6" side panels.

PUL (Polyurethane Laminate) fabric can be a little finicky to work with, but is a great option when you want a thin, lightweight waterproof layer. It's very popular right now with folks making their own diaper covers. These same people caution against the use of pins as they poke unnecessary holes into the PUL and reduce its effectiveness as a waterproof fabric. They suggest paper clips or basting tape. I totally get this for a diaper cover, which you really do want as leakproof as possible, but for our bag, we did use pins. Our construction is much more complex than a diaper cover, and there are points where matching is essential and so, therefore, are pins. Your lining will still be plenty water-resistant to protect against splashes and small spills, as well as the wet items that inevitably get tossed in.

If you experience skipped stitches on the PUL, it usually means you're using the wrong needle. We chose a #14 denim needle and had excellent results.

Our thanks to our pals at Michael Miller Fabrics for providing us with the absolutely wonderful Pretty Bird from Pillow & Maxfield for our series of seven Baby Gift projects. There are three vibrant colorways from which to choose. We selected the fabrics for our Baby collection from the Aqua colorway with its incredible hot pinks, limes and bright blues. Pretty Bird comes out this month, so check your favorite local or online fabric retailer soon for availability.

Sewing Tools You Need

Fabric and Other Supplies

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  • 1½ yards of 44-45" wide fabric for the outside of the bag: we used Pillow & Maxfield Pretty Bird from Michael Miller Fabrics in Pink Meandering Vines
  • 5/8 yard of 44-45" wide coordinating fabric for the inside facings: we used Pillow & Maxfield Pretty Bird from Michael Miller Fabrics in Pink Bloomies
  • 1½ yards of PUL waterproof lining
  • 5/8 yard fusible craft fleece
  • ¾ yard heavy-weight fusible interfacing
  • 7/8 yard light-weight fusible interfacing
  • 6" x 14" rectangle of extra heavy-weight interfacing (we recommend Timtex Interfacing Craft Pack
  • 2 yards ¼" elastic
  • All purpose thread to match fabrics
  • One swivel hook for keys
  • One 1" wooden button
  • See-through ruler
  • Wash away fabric marker
  • Scissors and rotary cutter and cutting mat
  • Iron and ironing board
  • Straight pins

Getting Started

  1. Download and print the Outside Pocket Pattern, Long Strap Pattern and Short Strap Pattern.
    IMPORTANT: These patterns consist of six, four and three 8.5" x 11" sheets respectively. You must print these PDF files at 100%. DO NOT SCALE to fit the page.
  2. Butt the pages together to create each full pattern. Do NOT overlap. Tape together.
  3. The two strap patterns print out and butt together left to right to form each piece. The pocket pattern is a bit different. Butt together pages one, two and three in a vertical column. Then, butt together pages four, five and six in the same manner to form a second column. Now, butt together the two columns to finish the pattern. You are initially working vertically to tape everything together, but your finished pattern will be a horizontal piece.
  4. Cut out each pattern along the solid line. Transfer the patterns' pleat and seam line markings to the fabric with a fabric pen or pencil.
  5. From the fabric for the outside of the bag (Pink Meandering Vines in our sample), cut:
    TWO 15" x 21" side panels
    TWO 7" x 15" bottom panels
    ONE 4" x 4" square for button loop
    ONE outside pocket, using our pattern
    ONE short strap, using our pattern
    ONE long strap, using our pattern
  6. From the fabric for the inside facings (Pink Bloomies in our sample), cut:
    TWO 3" x 21" facings
    ONE short strap, using our pattern
    ONE long strap, using our pattern
    ONE 3" x 4" rectangle for swivel hook
  7. From the PUL waterproof lining, cut:
    TWO 13" x 21" side panels
    ONE 11" x 27" panel for pleated pockets
    ONE 11" x 21" panel for flat pockets
    ONE 7" x 15" bottom panel
    ONE outside pocket, using our pattern but REVERSED
  8. From the fusible craft fleece, cut:
    TWO 15" x 21" side panels
    ONE 7" x 15" bottom panel
  9. From the heavy-weight fusible interfacing, cut:
    TWO  3" x 21" facings
    ONE outside pocket, using our pattern but REVERSED
  10. From the light-weight fusible interfacing, cut:
    ONE short strap, using our pattern
    ONE long strap, using our pattern

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

  1. Following the manufacturer's instructions, fuse the light-weight interfacing to the wrong side of the outside long and short straps. Fuse the heavy-weight interfacing to the wrong side of the two 3" x 21" inside facings. Trim the heavy-weight interfacing for the outside pocket as shown, and fuse it to the wrong side of the outside pocket.
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  2. Following manufacturer's instructions, fuse the craft fleece to one of the outside bottom panels and the two outside 15" x 21" side panels.
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Straps

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  1. Match each outside strap to its coordinating inside strap (Vines to Bloomies in our sample), right sides together. Align the pleat marks and all raw edges. Pin in place.
  2. Sew each pair together, using a ½" seam allowance, leaving the bottom edge open. Trim close to the stitching line all around.
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  3. Turn right sides out. Press. Topstitch ¼" from the edge. Form pleats by folding on the marked lines and basting in place.
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Front pocket and body of the bag

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  1. Following the pleat and the stitch-line marks you made on the outside pocket piece, sew the outside pocket to the PUL waterproof lining along the upper edge, using a ½" seam.
    NOTE: It is especially important the vertical stitch-line is correctly marked on your fabric.
  2. Turn right sides out and press. Top stitch 3/8" from the edge, forming a casing. Insert elastic into casing with ½" extra extending out each end. The pocket unit should lay flat.
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  3. Place the outside pocket on one of the outside 15" x 21" side panels. The lower edge and short side of the pocket should match the edges of the panel. The opposite edge of the pocket extends beyond the panel.
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  4. Pin in place from the short end back toward the marked vertical stitch-line and up toward the casing.
  5. Machine baste the pocket to the side panel. Start in the corner at the casing, stitch down, pivot at the bottom corner, stitch along the bottom edge, and stop at the marked vertical stitch-line.
  6. With your fabric pen pencil (make sure it's one that washes away or fades with exposure to the air because you are marking on the front of the project), extend the marked vertical stitch-line past the top of the pocket slant to the upper edge of the panel.
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  7. Stitch along this marked line from the lower edge of the panel to the upper edge of the panel, backstitching across the casing to reinforce this point.
  8. Match the left side of the pocket with the left edge of the side panel, and pin in place. Form pleats by folding on the marked lines, and pin pleats in place.
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  9. Pull the elastic until gathers form and the upper edge of the pocket lays flat against the side panel. Pin, and baste in place along the remaining raw edges of the pocket. Trim the excess elastic even with the edges.
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  10. Lay the remaining outside side panel right side up on your work surface. It should lay in the finished direction - with the 21" sides top and bottom and the 15" sides left and right. Mark a vertical stitching line 6½" in from the left edge of the panel. Stitch along the line.
  11. Place the two side panels right sides together, aligning the 15" sides. Stitch along both sides, through all layers, with a ½" seam allowance, to form the body of the diaper bag.

Bottom of the bag

  1. Place the outside bottom panel with the fusible fleece wrong side up on your work surface. Fold under one short end of the remaining fabric bottom panel ½" and press. Place this fabric panel over the fleece, right side up. Align the unfinished edges. Baste the two pieces together along the three raw edges. The short side with the folded edge should not be basted.    
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  2. The side with the folded edge (which forms a little pocket) is the wrong side of the bottom panel.
  3. With the body of the bag wrong side out, insert the bottom panel into the bag. Align the right sides of the bottom of the bag with the right sides of the bottom panel. Match the corner points of the front pocket to the 'front' two corners of the bottom panel, the match up the 'back' corners exactly opposite. Pin in place, adjusting as necessary and using plenty of pins to insure the panel sits in the bag evenly and square.
  4. Using a ½" seam allowance, sew the bottom panel to the body of the diaper bag, matching each side and clipping at the corners. Start and stop at each corner.
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    NOTE: Take care to not catch the folded edge of the bottom panel in the stitching. You need this 'pocket' to be open to allow you to insert the stiffener that will create the solid bottom of the bag.
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  5. Trim corners, and insert the piece of Timtex into the bottom panel pocket.
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  6. Hand stitch the 'pocket opening' closed. Turn the diaper bag right side out.
  7. Pin the short strap to the side of the diaper bag with the pleated pocket. Pin the long strap to the opposite side.

Inside pockets from the waterproof PUL

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  1. Fold down ½" along one long side of the 11" x 27" PUL panel. Topstitch 3/8" from the folded edge to form a small casing. Mark the panel for pockets: space the first vertical line 8½" from the left and a second line 9" from this first line.
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  2. Insert elastic into the casing with ½" extending from each end. The pocket unit should still lay flat at this point.
  3. Mark one of the 13" x 21" PUL panels for pocket placement, space the first line 6½" from the left and the second line 7" from this first line.
  4. Place the 11" x 27" panel with elastic over the 13" x 21" panel marked for pocket placement, both with right sides facing up. Align the first set of marked lines with the lower edges even, and pin in place.
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  5. Stitch along the marked line, back stitching across the elastic.
  6. Align the left edges of the two pieces of PUL and pin in place. Pull the elastic from the left, adjusting the fullness to fit the pocket width. Pin the elastic in place. Create a box pleat at the lower edge of the pocket to accommodate the lower fullness. Machine baste along the side and across the bottom of the pocket. Trim excess elastic.
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  7. Align the second set of marked vertical lines, keeping the lower edges even. Pin in place. Pull the elastic from the right, adjusting the fullness to fit the pocket width. Pin the elastic in place. Stitch along the marked vertical line, back stitching across the elastic. Create a box pleat at the lower edge of the pocket to accommodate the lower fullness and machine baste in place along the bottom edge.
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  8. Finally, align the right edges and pin in place. Pull the elastic from the right, adjusting the fullness to fit the pocket width. Pin the elastic in place. Create a box pleat at the lower edge of the pocket to accommodate the lower fullness. Machine baste along the bottom and side of the pocket. Trim excess elastic.
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  9. Place the completed inside PUL pocket unit right sides together with a 3" x 21" inside facing piece along the upper edge.
  10. Stitch together, using a ½" seam allowance.
  11. Press the seam toward the facing and topstitch ¼" from the seam. This completes the first section of the diaper bag lining.
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  12. Fold down ½" along one long side of the 11" x 21" PUL panel. Topstitch 3/8" from the folded edge to form a small casing. Insert elastic into casing with ½" extending from each end. The pocket unit should lay flat. Mark the panel for pockets: space the first line 6½" from the left and a second line 7" from this first line.
  13. Mark the remaining 13" x 21" PUL panel for pocket placement, placing the first line 6½" from the left and a second line 7" from this first line.
  14. Place the 11" x 21" elastic casing panel over the 13" x 21" panel with both right sides facing up. Align the sides and lower edges, and machine baste in place.
  15. Align the marked vertical pocket lines on both pieces and pin in place. Stitch along these marked lines, back stitching across the elastic. Trim the ends of the elastic.
    NOTE: For this pocket unit the elastic acts as a stabilizer, but is not gathered.
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Key hook, button loop, and completion of the lining

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  1. Fold the 3" x 4" rectangle of inside fabric (Bloomies in our sample) in half lengthwise matching the long sides (it is now 1½" x 4"). Stitch with a ½" seam.
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  2. Turn right side out. Press, centering the seam on one side. This is the loop for the swivel hook. Insert the loop through the swivel hook and match the ends.
  3. Center the loop above the right hand pocket of the flat PUL pocket unit and pin in place.
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  4. Sew the remaining 3" x 21" fabric facing piece to top edge of this flat PUL pocket unit, right sides together with a ½" seam allowance. You will be securing the loop as you sew. Press the seam toward the facing. Top stitch a ¼" from the seam. This completes the second section of the diaper bag lining.
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  5. Sew the two PUL lining units right sides together at the side seams, using a ½" seam allowance.
  6. Sew the 7" x 15" PUL bottom panel into place, matching a seam to opposite corners of the bottom panel and a line of stitching to the alternate corners.
  7. Sew with a ½" seam allowance, starting and stopping at each corner. Trim the corners.
  8. Fold the 4" x 4" outside fabric square diagonally and stitch ¼" from the fold. Trim away the excess and turn right side out, using a safety pin or loop turner. Press flat.
  9. Find the top center point of the side that will be the ‘back' of your bag (the side without the pocket). Make a mark at this center point with your fabric pencil. Then, still using your fabric pencil, draw a short horizontal line along the ½" seam line.
  10. Fold your loop in half and pin it at the center point mark you just made above. Adjust the loop so enough of it extends past the seam line for the button to pass through easily. Don't guess. Test it with your actual button. Pin the loop in place.
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  11. Stitch the loop down, running forward and backwards several times so your loop is secure and can stand up to lots of wear and tear. Trim away the excess.

Finishing

  1. With the body of the diaper bag wrong side out and the lining right side out, slide the lining inside the bag - so the two pieces are now nested and right sides together.
  2. Match up the top raw edges all around, aligning seams and corners of the bottom panels. Make sure the two straps are sandwiched in between bag and lining but the ends are hanging free. (You won't be able to actually see the straps because they are between the bag and the lining, but you just need to make sure they don't accidentally get caught up or tangled when you slip the lining inside the bag.)
  3. Using a ½" seam allowance, sew the lining to the diaper bag along the upper edge, enclosing the straps and the button loop in the seam. Leave about a 3-4" opening for turning the bag.
  4. Turn the diaper bag right side out. Push the lining down inside the bag, poking the corners of the lining's bottom panel into the corners of the bag so the bottom lays as flat as possible.
  5. Press, making sure the raw edges of your opening are pressed in so they are flush with the sewn seam.
  6. Topstitch around the top of the bag ¼" from the edge, closing the opening.
  7. Sew a button in place on the front panel of the bag above the outer pocket, matching its position to the button loop.
  8. Tie the two straps together with a square knot, adjusting to your preferred length.
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    Click to Enlarge

Contributors
Project Design: Alicia Thommas  
Sample Creation, Pattern Design and Instructional Outline: Michele Mishler

Other machines suitable for this project include the Elna 5200 and the Bernina aurora 440QE.

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Comments (162)

Theresa Rodman said:
Theresa Rodman's picture

I made this bag for my daughter and although she loved the bag, I was disappointed that it was so big!  To say that it is smaller than a typical diaper bag is incorrect.  If anything, I would say that it is larger than today's diaper bags.

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

Theresa Rodman - Sorry you were disappointed. we do always list the finished sizes of our projects (in this case: The finished bag is approximately 14" wide and 14" tall with a 6" x 14" bottom panel, and 6" side panels). Our research showed this was smaller than many of the available store-bought bags. But, of course, that may be different than what you've found. Glad to hear your daughter loved the bag anyway. 

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ Carola Hoeckx - nice job -- cute fabric and I like the blue lining. Thanks for sharing.

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ cdufford - thanks for sharing! Great job - especially love how you matched the elephant on the pocket.

NikkiB said:
NikkiB's picture

i am so excited to make this bag i printed all of the instructions only i cant find where to download and print the patterns could you please help me navigate the screen?

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ NikkiB - the first step in the Getting Started section has the links to all the pattern pieces.

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ LizzTaylor - glad you enjoyed the project. And thanks for linking back to Sew4Home

Barb Q. said:
Barb Q.'s picture

Hi,

I made this bag for my sister, and gave it to her at her baby shower, and it recieved great praise. But now I have been asked to make another for some realtives for them to give at a baby shower, I don't think they know what fabric costs, but I am pricing the fabric online at JoAnns at full price and it looks like it will cost around $60 just for materials, does this sound right? Also, I am not sure what to charge for the labor I put into the bag? Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Barb

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ Barb Q. - there are so many variables in pricing and options that I can't really give you a definitive option, but for everything in the supply list - yes, you could spend $50+. Labor is totally up to you to determine what your time is worth. 

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ Annette - I do not have the conversions on my end to be able to give you an exact one-to-one translation - I can't tell from the site you linked to. It isn't critical that you buy a very specific kind. For the lightweight interfacing, something like Pellon's Shir-Tailor would be fine: http://www.pellonprojects.com/products/950f-shirtailor/.  For the mid to heavy weight, Pellon's Decor Bond is a good choice: http://www.pellonprojects.com/products/809-decor-bond/. For the craft fleece, any thin batting would work.

Sara O said:
Sara O's picture

If I made some of these up can I sell them at our local craft show or is that agaist your copyright?

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ Sara O - You can make small quantities for sale if you make the items yourself. They cannot be manufactured by others or sold through a third party. We simply ask that on the tag and/ or somewhere within the display or packaging and/or within the sales description online, credit is given for the item being created from a copyrighted design/pattern/tutorial from Sew4Home.com.

Sara O said:
Sara O's picture

Thank you so much.  Yes, I will definetly credit your site for the pattern!  And I would be making them!  I have made 4 so far for friends and one for myself and everyone loves them!  You have great patterns and I have used several of them to make items for myself!  Thank you for offering such great patterns for free!

Meegan said:
Meegan's picture

I stumbled across this tutorial a little over a year ago and made this bag as a gift for an expecting friend. It has become her favorite bag (EVER!) and since she raved about it so much I've decided to make myself one too! Thank you for sharing this with all of us!

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ Meegan - thanks for sharing. We love that it's her favorite bag!

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ Softymel - so glad you had success! Your bag turned out very cute! Thanks for sharing.

Amanda said:
Amanda 's picture

I absolutely love it! Thanks so much for the pattern! It was do simple and fun! I will definitely be making more of these! 

Bridget said:
Bridget 's picture

Hi- Thanks for the pattern. I made one just recently and was impressed with the amount of stuff it can hold. For me its an everyday bag and not a quick trip one!

tabatha said:
tabatha's picture

i just found yourfantastic bag pattern. I will be attempting to make it soon. I find out this week if my little peanut will be a boy or girl and will buy fabrics that will also work with other.baby sewing projects that Id like to make gender specific. i am nervous though as I am extremely new to sewing (all I have made is simple crayon rolls and a camera strap cover lol). but this bag is too dadgone cute.NOT to.try to.make. I do have an.aunt.and.cousin who can.help if I end up needing it.

tabatha said:
tabatha's picture

i just found yourfantastic bag pattern. I will be attempting to make it soon. I find out this week if my little peanut will be a boy or girl and will buy fabrics that will also work with other.baby sewing projects that Id like to make gender specific. i am nervous though as I am extremely new to sewing (all I have made is simple crayon rolls and a camera strap cover lol). but this bag is too dadgone cute.NOT to.try to.make. I do have an.aunt.and.cousin who can.help if I end up needing it.

GinaGaladriel said:
GinaGaladriel's picture

Have a fast question, in step 6 how far from the edge you mark, I'm a bit confused.

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ GinaGaladriel - There are several "step 6" items above. I believe you are asking about step 6 in the pocket section. If so, refer to the photo below. The pocket pattern has a vertical stitch line that you should transfer to your pattern piece. Look closely at the photo - now that the pocket is basted in place, we have aligned our ruler with the marked line on the pocket and then extended it straight up across the body of the bag. All the way up to the top raw edge.

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ Mbailey - thanks for sharing your finished photo! And, so glad you hung in their past the "butterflies" to finish. We KNEW you could do it!

5littlekiddies said:
5littlekiddies's picture

Maybe I missed it but what are the finished dimensions of the bag?

Great job, it's really awesome!

Jeremias said:
Jeremias's picture

This is so pretty! I was just doing a gogole images search for diaper bag backpacks and found your blog and these pics. Please email me if you're interested in selling it again. Thanks!!

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ Jeremias - Sew4Home is all about teaching you to make your own items . We don't sell any projects or do custom work.

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ Brittany - the bag is not designed for a zipper so you would need to do a bit of reverse engineering. You would likely need to add a facing above the lining to accomodate it.

Anonymous said:
Anonymous's picture

I think so you would just put it in before adding the linning so it would be on top

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ Rebecca - glad you had fun with the pattern. Thank you for sharing it with your blog audience and linking back to Sew4Home. Your bag is super cute! Love the felted accents. 

Kristin said:
Kristin's picture

I am on my third of these bags, and I absolutely love the pattern and the finished bag.  It is the perfect diaper bag.  Only changes I made were instead of PUL (b/c I'm frugal!) for the lining of the outside pockets, I used the same coordinated cotton that was used on the flip of the strap, and then I used a magnetic closure instead of a button b/c it's easier.  I also used plastic needlepoint canvas for the base because I couldn't find the other material.  I always get compliments on my own bag, and the one that was a gift was a big hit.  It washes beautifully, too.  I just throw it in cold on a delicate cycle, then 10 min on low in the dryer, rest is air dry.  Perfect.  Thanks for an awesome pattern!

serenity2088 said:
serenity2088's picture

This is an excellent pattern!  I just made it for my dear friend's first grandbaby and it turned out great.  Thanks for sharing and allowing us to use it.  I wasn't able to get PUL so I used Heat Bond Vinyl that's ironed onto fabric.  This allowed me to use another decorator fabric inside the bag.  It's a little stiff but it works.  I'm extremely happy with the result.

CrystalB said:
CrystalB's picture

Hi, I was just wondering what the dimensions were for this bag, thanks

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ CrystalB - the bag finishes at approximate 14" high x 14" wide and the sides are 6" panels.  

Confusseddd said:
Confusseddd's picture

I dont understand where the marked lines are to do pleats in step 3 for the straps. 

Also Im not there yet but i dont understand step 10  for putting all the sides together. What is the remaining outside side panel? Do you just put a random stich 61/2" inches from the edge? I dont see what this is sewing together. 

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ confusseddd - all the pleat marks are on the original pattern pieces. There are two side panels, you are attaching the pocket to one, so there is one remaining. The vertical seam gives you a line to follow to create the side of the bag. It matches the vertical seam sewn through the pocket panel. This is one of our more complex bags. If it's becomming a challenge, you might want to make a prototype bag out of muslin or a scrap fabric prior to doing the final bag. 

Charlee said:
Charlee's picture

I am a beginner and I have a question about the pattern. This makes me seem like an idiot? But, I am to the point of sewing on the straps. I think I know the answer but wanted to verify. The straps should be sewn from the top of the bag? Because if I sew them down lower near the pocket/bottom portion of the bag they would be much shorter (too short). So my assumption is that they should be sewn higher up toward the top part of the bag? Is that correct?

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ Charlee - When you sew the strap in place on the bag, you match the raw edge of the strap with the top raw edge of the bag. So, yes, you are attaching them at the top. The finished ends of the straps will be hanging down towards the bottom of the bag. As it mentions during the "Finishing" section, when you put the lining inside the bag, the straps will be sandwiched between the layers. When you finally turn the bag right side out through the opening you left, you will pull up the straps, which will now be sewn into the top seam. This is one of our more complex bag patterns on the site. You could also browse through our Storage Solutions section within Projects and look at some of the simpler totes to see other pictures of how bag handles are normally attached. Hope that helps. 

ljzarembo said:
ljzarembo's picture

Love this pattern.  I am having a hard time with putting pattern pieces together.  When you say butt up pages do you mean match the lines or match up edge of paper.  On the long strap when matching up edges of paper the pattern is off.  If I butt up lines then it's ok.  There are length measurements on the short strap and the outside pocket but not one on long strap. If I match up lines on the short strap and outside pocket the measurements do not match.  Very confused.  Any input would be greatly appreciated.  I am a beginner!!

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