s4h-janome-mc15000

Facebook Twitter Sew4Home RSS Feed Follow Me on Pinterest

Sew4Home

Bed Caddy

Printer-friendly versionSend by emailPDF version

Click to Enlarge

I don't know about you, but my nightstand is pretty crowded. There are books and magazines and lotions and a clock and remotes and, and, and! This handy bed caddy allows me to keep my most-used items right at my fingertips, and the top of my nightstand stays tidy. The pockets all have the perfect expandable gusset: big enough to easily slide stuff in and out, but not so big that things topple out.

We used two coordinating Amy Butler fabrics in a decorator weight: a solid in Leaf and Garden Knot in Olive from her August Fields collection. You really need the extra heft in the fabric for both strength and stability.

Sewing Tools You Need

Fabric and Other Supplies

Click to Enlarge

  • Fabric for base: ¾ yard of 54" decorator weight fabric: we used Amy Butler's Decorator Solids in Leaf
    NOTE:
    if you don't choose a solid, you will likely need a full yard to account for directional patterns
  • Fabric for binding and pockets: ½ yard of 54" decorator weight fabric: we used Amy Butler's August Fields in Garden Knot Olive
  • Gripper fabric: one piece apx 20" x 4"
    NOTE: this is like the traction fabric used on the bottom of feetie pajamas - it can be found in stores and online under the names Slipper Gripper and Jiffy Grip
  • All purpose thread
  • See-through ruler
  • Fabric pencil
  • Iron and ironing board
  • Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
  • Straight pins

Getting Started

Some important notes on sizing

Our pocket sizes were determined based on the things we wanted to store; you'll have different stuff, and you can change the pocket sizes to get the best fit. Remember, the pockets can go horizontally or vertically. Do whatever works best in your space. We needed the following items handy: a Logitech Harmony One remote, an iPhone 3GS, a Sonos Controller 200, and an issue of Martha Stewart Living.

Click to Enlarge

Click to Enlarge

Also, bed frames and mattress depths vary considerably. So before you decide our measurements are going to be perfect for your bed and your arm, we recommend grabbing your cloth tape measure, a note pad and a pencil, and heading on over to your bed. Lift up the mattress and insert the end of the tape measure about 18" (make sure you insert the 1" end). Drop the mattress and let the other end of the tape measure fall to the floor. Climb in bed, but do not go to sleep! Instead, drop your arm over the side of the bed and gauge a comfortable reach for the pockets. Grab the tape measure at the points you think are good for the pockets, note these measurements on your pad of paper. Finally, get out of bed (I know .... bummer!) and pick the bottom point. This should be an inch or so from the floor. If you have a dust ruffle, you could make the bottom of the caddy flush with the that.

Okay ... now you can start

  1. Lay out base (solid) fabric and measure, draw and cut a rectangle 20" wide x 34" high.
  2. All the pockets have side gussets for expansion and an inside lining for stability. The lining fabric folds over the top to mimic binding. This means 3½" must be added to the finished width and ¼" to the finished height for the outside or printed fabric. And, 3½" must be added to the finished width and 1¼" to the finished height for the inside or solid fabric.
    Click to Enlarge
  3. For our sample, we chose three small pockets and one large pocket.
    Pocket 1: Finished size needed to be 3" wide x 4" high. From the printed fabric we cut a rectangle 6½" wide and 4¼" high. And from the solid fabric we cut a rectangle if 6½" wide and 5¼" high.
    Pocket 2: Finished size needed to be 2½" wide x 4" high. From the printed fabric we cut a rectangle 6" wide and 4¼" high. And from the solid fabric we cut a rectangle if 6" wide and 5¼" high.
    Pocket 3: Finished size needed to be 6½" wide x 4½" high. From the printed fabric we cut a rectangle 10" wide and 4¾" high. And from the solid fabric we cut a rectangle if 10" wide and 5¾" high.
    Pocket 4: Finished size needed to be 9½" wide x 10" high. From the printed fabric we cut a rectangle 13" wide and 10¼" high. And from the solid fabric we cut a rectangle if 13" wide and 11¼" high.
  4. For the edge binding, cut two strips of the printed fabric 2" wide x 22" long and two strips of printed fabric 2" wide x 34" long.
    NOTE: You'll need to cut these pieces across the width of your 54" decorator fabric.
  5. Cut a strip of gripper fabric 20" wide x 4" high. Finish the raw edges with pinking shears or a pinking rotary cutter. You could also serge the edge or fold under ¼" and edge stitch. This gripper fabric will help make your caddy extra resistant to slipping.

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

Constructing the base

  1. Place the 20" x 4" gripper fabric against the back side of the base fabric, positioning it 4" from top edge and edge-to-edge across the width. Pin.
    Click to Enlarge
  2. Edgestitch in place.
    Click to Enlarge
  3. If gripper fabric does not slide freely under your machine's presser foot, place a sheet of wax paper over the gripper fabric and stitch on top of the wax paper. The wax paper tears away from the stitching easily when finished.
    Click to Enlarge
  4. Take your four pieces of binding fabric and create a double fold binding tape. Iron each strip in half, right sides facing out, then open and fold each edge to the middle. Press both new folds, then fold in half again and press. This will create two strips of binding tape ½" x 22" and two strips ½" x 34". If you are new to creating binding, read our tutorial, Bias Tape: How To Make It & Attach It.
  5. First, sew the binding on each side of the base fabric.
  6. Then sew the binding to the top and bottom edges, overlapping the side bindings at each corner with a folded, finished edge. Again, for step-by-step help attaching binding, see our tutorial, Bias Tape: How To Make It & Attach It.
  7. Set your completed base piece aside.

Constructing the pockets

  1. Lay out all your printed and solid pocket pairs with right sides together. Line up the bottom edges of the solid and printed fabrics. The top edge of the solid fabric should extend 1" above the top edge of the printed fabric.
    Click to Enlarge
  2. For EACH pair: pin together, and using with ¼" seam allowance, stitch the two sides and the bottom edge. Leave the top edge open.
    Click to Enlarge
  3. Trim the bottom corners diagonally ( to make a cleaner point), turn all the pockets right side out and press.
    Click to Enlarge
  4. Take one pocket. Fold down the solid fabric top edge ½" and press. Fold it down another ½" to cover the top raw edge of the printed fabric. Press.
    Click to Enlarge
  5. Stitch along the edge of this folded 'faux binding' with a straight or zig-zag stitch. We chose a zig zag stitch.
    Click to Enlarge
  6. Repeat with remaining three pockets.
  7. To form the side gussets, fold each side of the pocket back 1½" and press to create a firm fold.
    Click to Enlarge
  8. Edgestitch along the fold and then stitch again 1/8" from the first edgestitching to create double stitching lines. Do this along both folds.
    Click to Enlarge
  9. Fan fold the side flap back towards the side edge. Press firmly. Fan fold the other side flap. Press.
    Click to Enlarge
  10. Repeat for each pocket. Set all the pockets aside.
    Click to Enlarge
  11. Lay out your base fabric piece and use your fabric pencil to draw guides for your pocket placement. If you're duplicating our design: measure 1½" in from each side edge and draw a 15" vertical line along each side. Then, measure 3" in from the bottom edge and draw a horizontal line straight across.
    Diagram
  12. Using your drawn lines as guides, square up the largest pocket first (in our sample, the #4 pocket). Line up the right hand side of the pocket with the right vertical line and the bottom of the pocket with the bottom horizontal line.
  13. Pin the pleated edge to the base fabric along both sides.
    Click to Enlarge
  14. Edgestitch each side of the pocket to the fabric base, then stitch again about 1/8" from the first edgestitching line. Leave the bottom edge open. Remove from the machine.
  15. Fold the gussets out to their final position and pin the the bottom edge of the pocket to the base fabric. Stitch the bottom closed by edge stitching through all layers, then stitch again about 1/8" from the first edgestitching line. Start and stop these seams at the corners to best match the vertical stitching lines of the gusset's fold.
    Click to Enlarge
  16. Lay pocket #3 on the base fabric, lining up the bottom and left side edge with your drawn lines on the left side and bottom. Pin and stitch as indicated above in steps 13-15.
  17. Lay pocket #1 on the base fabric about 1½" above pocket #3 and lined up with the left side vertical drawn line. Pin and stitch as indicated above in steps 13-15.
  18. Lay pocket #2 on the base fabric about 1½" above pocket #3 and ½" to the right of pocket #1. Pin and stitch as indicated above in steps 13-15.
    Click to Enlarge
  19. Slide your caddy between the mattress and box springs. Adjust so the pockets fall within arm's reach.

Hints and Tips

What are all those double stitching lines for?

These pockets need to hold some heavy things, and the gussets need to flex in and out repeatedly. The double lines of stitching keep the seams nice and secure. Double lines for double strength!

Stitching through the layers

When you're sewing the pockets to the base fabric, and you get to the corners, you will be stitching through a lot of layers!

Go slowly and carefully. Rather than using the foot pedal, sometimes it helps to use your machine's handwheel to crank through the last half to quarter inch, and go stitch-by-stitch.

This is also the time to use your lock stitch button if you have one. If you don't, hit reverse and use the handwheel again to back tack a few stitches.

Contributors

Project Design: Alicia Thommas
Sample Coreation: Dianne LeBlanc

Other machines suitable for this project include the Elna 3230 or the Pfaff Select 4.0.

Tags: 

Section: 

Comments (27)

Anonymous said:
Anonymous's picture

Gonna have to stop being cheap and buy decorator fabrics! Made this and it turned out just like yours except for the stiffness. Love it though! Thank you for the tutorial!!!

spparry said:
spparry's picture

On step number 8, are you edgestitching just up to the faux binding and stopping, or edgestitching up through the faux binding as well?

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ spparry - up to the binding, but not through it. If you click on the pictures, they will enlarge, which will show you a more detailed image.

spparry said:
spparry's picture

Thank you so much!!  And for answering on a Saturday!

Jo said:
Jo's picture

thank you for taking the time to make strangers lives easy may Gods blessings pour back to you

Julie Shank said:
Julie Shank's picture

Loved it, but decided the bias tape was just extra work, so cut out two pieces of the 20 x 34 inch piece and lined it.  Much easier, but then you don't have the contrasting border.  (I'm for making things easier!)

carol blackburn said:
carol blackburn's picture
easy to understand step by step instructions...
Charlie said:
Charlie's picture
Cute! I've pinned this and am linking to it in my "Gifts for men" post today. Thanks for the tutorial!

Aloha,
Charlie
sklemm said:
sklemm's picture
This is wonderful! I've just completed one for my oldest daughter and I'm on to another for my youngest. Thanks for all your great tutorials!
Emmy said:
Emmy's picture
Very neat! I appreciate how simple the instructions are to follow and the pictures also serve as a terrific guide.
Thanks so much for posting such a crisp option that would stand up to daily use.
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture
@ suziqsi -- I don't work with vinyl a lot, so I don't know all the specific weights, but I have purchased what is labeled in the store as "craft vinyl" for a couple projects and it has worked well. However, I've never tried to "pleat" it as you'd need to do on this project to create the pocket depth. It might not want to hold that shape. Test it out, and if you have trouble, maybe make your vinyl pockets flat instead of gusseted.
suziqsi said:
suziqsi's picture
I love this and am considering making it for my daughters room with a few vinyl pockets added for sports schedules - lunch menu - etc. what thickness of vinyl would you choose if any for this? Thanks for the great project!!! can't wait!
jule said:
jule's picture
thank u so much. I had back surgery a year ago and can finally yet painfully sleep back in bed. I have trouble falling asleep and then its painful to move when I wake up. I freak that I can't find my phone which I also use as an alarm clock and my glasses when I wake up. I am going to make this today. thank u for the details you added for strength in the pockets!smilies/kiss.gif
shukria said:
shukria's picture
superb! i'll try it tomorrow. i rally need it to make mt life easier, thanks n may God bless you.smilies/kiss.gif
sewheavenly said:
sewheavenly's picture
This is a great project for me to work on when I have time off from school. My husband is always looking for the remote control and can never remember where he has hidden it. This is a great organizational solution. Thanks a lot happy sewing.
manny said:
manny's picture
hola a todos y todas!!! les mando un saludo enorme desde Mexico, dejenme contarles que descubri esta pagina y es grandiosa la manera en como hace los tutoriales, solo que tengo un problema..... apenas me regalaron mi maquina de coser y estoy empezando a aprender, sabran de alguna pagina donde pueda ilustrar o leer o aprender los pasos escenciales para empezar a coser y hacer estas maravillas??? ojala que si me puedan ayudar.... una vez mas, felicidades por esta hermosisima pagina Liz....I LOVE IT!!! smilies/cheesy.gif
Liz Johnson, Editor, Sew4Hhome said:
Liz Johnson, Editor, Sew4Hhome's picture
Hi Isa ... so happy to help. There's nothing worse that getting all cozy and dozy and then having to get up to put away your book and glasses! This will be perfect for you. You can make one for each side.
Isa said:
Isa's picture
This was exactly what I was looking for and your instructions, plus your images, are so easy to follow. We have no room for nightstands by our bed and so I've been having to get out of bed to put my book and glasses on the bureau. I knew I could make something but wasn't sure how to go about it. Thank you! This is going to make my life just a little easier. smilies/cheesy.gif
Liz Johnson, Editor, Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson, Editor, Sew4Home's picture
Thanks for the link, SewWhatToday! smilies/cheesy.gif
Sew What said:
Sew What's picture
Wow, this is a great idea! I'd like to share a link on sewwhattoday.blogspot.com on June 7!
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture
Hi Kdubzzz -- SO glad you like this project. It's fun and easy and I just adore the Amy Butler fabric. Let us know how yours turns out. Thanks for visiting!
Kdubzzz said:
Kdubzzz's picture
Love this idea! FABULOUS! I also very much appreciate the tidbit about the wax paper! I'm a new sewer and have been trying to sew this PUL. It's been horrible... I did try paper but then I couldn't see. Wax paper I can see!!! Thank you!

Add new comment

*Sew4Home reserves the right to restrict comments that don’t relate to the article, contain profanity, personal attacks or promote personal or other business.
By submitting this form, you accept the Mollom privacy policy.