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Kid’s Nine Pocket Door Caddy

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Little socks, little shirts, little shoes. Kid accoutrements have a way of turning into a meandering trail across the floor, making a mess and making it hard to find what you need when it’s time to get dressed. Our closet door caddy has nine 6” pockets to hold lots of little stuff. We can’t guarantee that some items won’t still escape, but we can promise super-cute organization that makes it more fun to tidy up.

As any aspiring Mary Poppins will tell you, making picking-up fun gets the job done more quickly and easily. Use a bright, happy print and hang the caddy at kid-height. We chose some frisky foxes from Robert Kaufman’s adorable Urban Zoologie collection, and the binding is done is a soft flannel. 

The caddy is really meant to be spot cleaned, but it could be machine-washed on the gentle cycle and hung to dry. It will need to be pressed prior to re-hanging and re-filling. Anytime you’re working with flannel, we do recommend pre-washing as it shrinks more that most fabrics.

Each pocket has a small pleat at the base so it can expand to hold as much as possible. The three pocket panels are sell secured along the bottom, the sides and with each division seam, so we chose to not use interfacing. This works great to hold small clothing and accessory items. If you’d like your caddy to hold heavier items, consider adding a layer of interfacing to each panel prior to binding and pleating. We used Command brand hooks to position our sample caddy. They make it easy to adjust the height and attach without a hammer and nails. You could certainly use any style of hooks, just make sure the curve of the hook has enough depth to handle the thickness of the caddy and the plastic grommet. 

The grommets we selected are from Dritz® Home. Although the red we used is a promotional color no longer readily available, there are a dozen other colors that would look just as great. With our fabric combination, white, black or even pewter would be fun. 

Our caddy finishes at approximately 20” wide x 30” high with nine pockets that are approximately 6” x 6” with an expandable pleat.

Sewing Tools You Need

Fabric and Other Supplies

Getting Started

  1. From the fabric for the caddy front and pockets (mini foxes in our sample), cut the following:
    ONE 21” wide x 31” high rectangle from the main panel
    THREE 22” wide x 12” high rectangles for the pocket panels
  2. From the fabric for the caddy back (gray canvas in our sample), cut ONE 21” wide x 31” high rectangle.
  3. From the binding fabric (stripe flannel in our sample), cut SIX 2½" x width of fabric (WOF) strips.
  4. From the mid-weight fusible interfacing, cut ONE 21” x 31” rectangle.

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

Preparing the caddy body

  1. Fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the cotton duck/canvas piece (the caddy back).
  2. Layer the caddy front and the caddy back WRONG sides together. All the raw edges of both layers should be flush.
  3. Using a machine basting stitch and a ½" seam allowance, sew around the entire outside edge to hold these layers together. Set aside. 

Preparing the pockets

  1. Find the three pocket panel pieces. Press each in half, wrong sides together, so they are now 22” wide x 6” high. Set aside. 
  2. Find three of the WOF binding strips. Fold each strip in half, wrong sides together, so it is now 1¼” wide.
    NOTE: These are the binding strips for each pocket. You will use the remaining three strips later to finish the caddy body. 
  3. Pair up one binding strip with each pocket panel, aligning the raw edges of the folded binding with the raw edges of folded pocket panel. Pin in place. 
    NOTE: Each binding strip will be longer than the pocket piece; that's okay, you’ll trim off the excess once it's sewn. 
  4. Using a ¼" seam allowance, stitch the binding to each pocket piece. Trim off the excess binding from the sides so all edges are flush.
  5. Press the binding up, away from the pocket.
  6. Using an overcast stitch, a zigzag stitch, or a serger, finish the raw edges along both sides of each pocket panel. 
  7. Fold the binding up and around to the back of the pocket panel, aligning it just beyond the previous stitching line. Make sure your fold is even along the length of the pocket panel. Press in place. 
  8. On the front of each pocket panel, place pins 'in the ditch' of the binding seam line, which is right along the seam line of the panel and binding. This will catch the edge of the binding which should sit, as described above, just beyond the seam. 
  9. Using a standard straight stitch, sew ‘in the ditch' - again, this is right along the seam line of the panel and the binding. In the photo below, we flipped over the pocket panel so you could see where we are stitching on the front (under the needle) and what it should look like on the back. 
    NOTE: You can sew in the ditch with a regular presser foot (we continued to use the AcuFeed™ Flex feeding system on our Skyline S7) or you can switch to a Ditch Quilting foot, which has a handy guide that runs along the previous seam to keep the ditch stitching perfectly straight. 
  10. Fold back both sides of each pocket panel ½". Press in place. You can see how we finished the raw edges with an overcast stitch. For more about machine sewn finishes, check out our four-part tutorial

Pleating the pockets

  1. Place each bound pocket flat on your work surface with the right side (the front side with the clean edge of the binding) facing up.
  2. Line up a tape measure along the bottom edge of each pocket panel. Your overall pocket panel should measure approximately 21”.
  3. Using a fabric pencil or pins, place a mark at 7" and 14". Repeat for the remaining two pocket panels. These are the pocket division lines. Place a pin at the top and bottom and/or draw in a vertical lines at each of these two measurements on each pocket panel. 
  4. With the pocket division lines marked, measure for the center point of each pocket’s three pleats. To do this from the left folded edge of the pocket panel measure 3½” to the right, 10½” to the right and 17½” to the right. These are the three center marks for your pleats
  5. From each center point, measure 1/2” to the right and 1/2” to the left. Place a pin or make a mark at these points. You should now have three marks/pins at each pleat point. 
  6. Flip over the panel so you are now working on the back side of the pocket. 
  7. To make each pleat, pinch the outside marks and fold them in to meet at the middle mark.
  8. Baste across each pleat close to the edge to hold it in place. Remember, this is the back-to-school of the pocket panel. 
  9. Repeat for each pocket on each pocket panel.
  10. Below is a bird’s eye view of how each pleat forms along each panel.
  11. Set all the pocket panels aside.

Binding

  1. Place the caddy body right side up on a flat surface. Trim the seam allowance to ⅜" from the basting line previously sewn. You used a ½" seam allowance for the basting , so this means you're trimming off just ⅛". 
    NOTE: Pay attention to the overall size of the door caddy; make sure it's even all around and square at each corner. 
  2. Using a straight stitch and a ¼" seam allowance, sew the three remaining binding strips together end-to-end to create one long strip. Press all seams open.
  3. Press the entire long binding string in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. 

    NOTE:
    Because our project has a definite front and back, we decided to bind the edge in the same manner we bound the pockets above. This allows for a clean bound edge on the front with the stitching line only showing on the back. This is different than how we’ve done instructions for other tutorials with reversible items that are bound, such as blankets and throws, where we traditionally recommend a two-step quilt binding with a hand sewn edge along the back. Just making sure you’re paying attention :-).
  4. Starting in the middle of one side or the middle of the bottom, line up the raw edges of the folded binding with the raw edge of the caddy body. Leave about a 6" tail. Pin in place.
  5. Using a ¼" seam allowance, start sewing the binding to the door caddy edge. Go from your starting point (remember to leave that 6" tail) to the first corner.
  6. Stop at the corner. Raise the needle and the pressure foot. Pull the caddy out slightly from under the needle to the left of the machine. You do not need to cut the thread.
  7. Rotate the caddy. To turn the corner, bring the folded edge of your binding up. This automatically creates a pleat and a 90˚ corner. Pin. Line up the next side's raw edge with the raw edges of the binding, working your way to the next corner. Pin in place.
  8. Place the caddy back under the needle and foot to continue sewing the binding, starting about ¼" in from the top edge. 
  9. Repeat these same steps at each corner. We’ve summarized our binding instructions and photos. If you are brand new to the technique, check out our full tutorial on Binding Quilts and Throws
  10. When you are approaching where you started, stop about 4" short of this point and back tack. This will allow you space to join your binding end-to-end, and then attach it to the caddy for a clean finish.
  11. With the 6" tail you left at the beginning, and the tail you have at the end, unfold the binding strip and place the two binding tails right sides together.
  12. Determine the point where you can sew a straight seam (just like you did when you joined the binding pieces end-to-end at the start), allowing your binding to lay flat against caddy. Pin the ends together at this point.
  13. Pull the binding away from the caddy so you can place the it under the foot of your sewing machine.
  14. Sew a seam where you pinned the binding. Trim the tails to a ¼" seam allowance, trimming away all the excess binding. Press open the seam allowance.
  15. The binding should now be a perfect fit against the caddy. Press this loose section of the binding in half wrong sides together (into its original shape).
  16. Pin the raw edges of the binding to the raw edge of the caddy.
  17. Finish sewing binding to the caddy from the point where you stopped to the point where you started, matching your seam lines.
  18. Press the binding up and away from the caddy.
  19. Fold the binding over to the back of the caddy, aligning it just beyond the previous stitching line. Just like you did above for the pocket binding. Make sure your fold is even all around the edge. You'll probably need to futz with the corners a little bit to get the pleats right. Press in place.
  20. Also as you did with the pocket binding above, on the front of the caddy, place pins "in the ditch" of the binding seam line, which is just below your original seam line.
  21. Using a straight stitch, sew 'in the ditch' - again, this is right along and just below your original seam line. 
    NOTE: As mentioned above, check out our full binding tutorial if you are new to this technique.
  22. Remove any visible basting stitches from around the body of the caddy. 

Attaching the pockets

  1. Place the bound caddy right side up you work surface.
  2. Using a fabric marking pen or pencil and a see-through ruler or tape measure, mark the pocket positions. For each pocket panel, you will mark the position of the bottom, the left and right sides, and the pocket sections.
  3. Place a long ruler or tape measure at the exact center (right to left) of the caddy, with the top of the ruler at the top of the caddy (the top of the binding).
  4. Down the center, place marks at 14½" from the top, 21" from the top, and 28½" from the top. 
  5. Move your ruler to the left side and position it so it is 1" in from the binding seam (the 'stitch in the ditch' seam line, NOT the outside edge of the binding) along the left side of the caddy. Make the same three measurements (14½" from the top, 21" from the top, and 28½" from the top). This represents the extreme left side of the pocket panels.

  6. Repeat with your ruler 1" in from the binding seam along the right side of the caddy. This represents the extreme right side of the pocket panels. 
  7. Connect each of these three sets of marks to make on long horizontal line. 
    NOTE: Each line should be approximately 18" long (the finished length of the pocket pieces with their pleats in place). 
  8. Now, place your ruler along each drawn horizontal line, and mark at 6" and 12" (this is where each previously drawn vertical line should fall that represents the division lines of the pocket).
  9. Pin the bottom pocket panel in place, using the lines and marks as your positioning guides. Remember to place pins across each pocket division line. 
  10. Pin the middle and top pocket panels in place in the same manner.
  11. Using a straight stitch, edgestitch each pocket panel in place. Start to sew at the top of one pocket side, stitch down, pivot at the corner, go along the bottom, pivot at the opposite corner, and go up the other side to finish.
  12. Be sure to back tack at the beginning and end of each pocket panel, and be careful to keep all your layers flat when stitching over your pleats.
  13. To sew the pocket sections, start at the bottom line of edgestitching and sew to the top of the pocket along the drawn line. Again, be sure to Back tack at the beginning and end. 
  14. The illustration below shows the sizing and stitching of each pocket panel.

Grommets

  1. Using the template that comes with the grommets, mark the position of each hole at the upper left and right corners of the door caddy. We positioned ours 1" from either edge. 
  2. Using a zigzag stitch, sew around the marked circle for each grommet's position. We use a zigzag stitch here to help keep the fabric from fraying in case we ever needed to wash our caddy. 
  3. Cut out the circle, just inside the zigzag stitching. 
  4. Place one half of the grommet in the hole from the wrong side. 
  5. Snap on the other half on the opposite side. 

    NOTE: For more information on how to use Dritz® Curtain Grommets, see our tutorial: How to Use Snap-On Grommets.

Contributors
Project Design: Alicia Thommas 
Sample Creation and Instructional Outline: Debbie Guild

Section: 

Comments (2)

Marilyn Brecher said:
Marilyn Brecher's picture

I bought material on sale to make 25 of these as Christmas gifts.   Started the first 2.   You say to buy 3/4 yard of interfacing and backing, which is only 27" long.  The dirctions say the pieces are 31."  That means I am 4" short on all the pieces of material.  The whole yardage of 1 and 3/4 yds is too short too.  To make 2, I bought 2 and 1/4 yards.  I will only be able to make one.   Making this for a friend who is paying for materail.   I haven't checked yet to see if I'm going to run short of binding.  Not happy.
"

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@Marilyn-If the fabric is at least 44-45" wide, you can cut your pieces side by side: 21" for the main panel and 22" for the pocket panels. If you're pattern is random, as our little foxes were, you could also cut the panels going the oher direction: the main panel 31" across the 44" width, which would then be 21" deep, and then cut the three pockets underneath - side by side: 12" - 12" - 12" and an additional 22" deep, using up 53" of your 63". From your 2-1/4 yards, you can cut the two main panels side by side: two main 21" panels side by side, taking up 31" of your 81" in length. From the remaining 50" cut the six pocket panels side by side (22" - 22") in three rows , each row would be 12" deep, We specified that Pellon Decor Bond for interfacing, which is 45" wide, giving enough for 21" x 31" panel cut horizontally. If you interfacing is narrower, there will be an issue. We've added a width clarification above. I hope that helps a bit. 

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