Fairfield Generic Project Foam 200x200

Facebook Twitter Sew4Home RSS Feed Follow Me on Pinterest

Sew4Home

Little Sunshine Hanging Diaper Stacker

Printer-friendly versionSend by emailPDF version

Babies bring a ray of sunshine into the world. However, they don't bring anything else with them. It's up to us to provide a nursery full of important things to keep them happy and healthy. This week's Little Sunshine nursery projects will get you going and keep things glowing with a bright, sunny color scheme. Today's handy diaper stacker is designed to hang from a crib or changing table. There's plenty of room for lots of diapers inside plus two handy pockets on the outside for wipes, ointments, lotions and more.

Our adorable sunshine appliqué with the unique teardrop sun rays is offered below as a download. We choose a bold striped fabric along with two coordinating solid canvas cuts. Our thanks to Fabric.com for providing the fabric. There are direct links in the supply list so you can easily load up you own shopping cart to create one identical to ours. Or, shop for your own combo to best fit your nursery's décor. With over 500,000 yards in stock, there's always something to love.

Our stacker finishes at approximately 23" high x 13" wide x 8½" deep and is sized for a 12" wide child's hanger. It is quite sturdy and could easily hold disposable diapers stacked nearly to the top, however, we wouldn't recommend stacking quite as many of the heavier cloth diapers. 

Sewing Tools You Need

Fabric and Other Supplies

Getting Started

  1. Download and print the pattern/template pieces: Diaper Stacker Top Section and Stacker Sunshine Appliqué. Print TWO COPIES of the Diaper Stacker Top Section and ONE COPY of the Appliqué.
    IMPORTANT: Each pattern/template is ONE 8½" x 11" sheet. You must print the PDF files at 100%. DO NOT SCALE to fit the page. There is a guide line on each page to confirm your printout is the correct size. 
  2. Leave the appliqué as a single unit.
  3. Cut out the two copies of the top section pattern along the solid lines. Flip over one copy, then butt together the two pieces along the center line, matching the arrows on the templates, to make one pattern piece. Do NOT overlap. Tape in place. 
  4. From the main exterior fabric (the stripe in our sample), cut the following:
    ONE 19" high x 44" wide rectangle for the main body of the stacker
    Measurements shown to accommodate vertical stripe
    TWO 7" high x 14" wide rectangles for the pockets
    Measurements shown to accommodate horizontal stripe when positioned
    ONE 10" high x 14" wide rectangle for the bottom
  5. From the lining fabric (the white broadcloth in our sample), cut the following:
    TWO pieces, using the assembled top pattern
    ONE 19" high x 44" wide rectangle
    ONE 28" x 10" rectangle for the base insert pocket
  6. From the fabric for the top section (natural duck in our sample), cut TWO pieces, using the assemble top pattern. 
  7. From the fabric for the appliqué, piping and binding (mustard duck in our sample), cut the following:
    ONE 2" x 28" strip for the piping
    TWO 2" x 19" strips for the binding
    Leave an approximate 8½" x 11" rectangle for the appliqué. Fusing and cutting steps are shown below.
  8. From the fusible fleece, cut TWO pieces, using the assembled top pattern.
  9. From the fusible interfacing, cut the following:
    TWO 6½" x 6½" squares for the pockets
    ONE 9" x 13" rectangle for the base
    NOTE: If your fabric is particularly lightweight, you may also want to cut TWO 4" x 19" strips to use to interface both sides of the stacker's opening (between the exterior and the lining). Our combined exterior and lining fabric were substantial enough without. 
  10. On all the top section pieces, snip into the seam allowance, through all the layers, at the dot shown on the pattern. This indicates the opening where the hanger will come through. Remember to make a snip to both the right and left of center.
  11. Cut the Velcro® into one 3" length.
  12. From the plastic canvas, cut ONE 12½" x 8¾" rectangle.

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

Top appliqué

  1. Using the appliqué template you printed, trace the sunshine design onto the paper side of the paper-back fusible web.
  2. Following manufacturer's instructions, fuse the web to the wrong side of the solid fabric (the Mustard Duck in our sample).
  3. Carefully cut out each appliqué shape: the center half circle and all seven teardrop rays. 
  4. Using the template guide on the top section pattern piece, place all the appliqué shapes in position on one of the top section pieces (the natural duck in our sample) – this will then become your front piece. We used just one half of the pattern, setting one side of the sun and then the other. 
  5. Following manufacturer's instructions, fuse the shapes into place. 
  6. Find the fusible fleece and the remaining top exterior piece. Following manufacturer's instructions, fuse the fleece to the wrong side of the front and back top exterior pieces.
  7. Thread the machine with thread to match the appliqué shapes in the top and bobbin.
  8. Set up your machine for a dense satin stitch. We used a medium width zig zag with the length set to almost zero. You want a clean, tight stitch. Practice first on scraps to test your settings. If you are new to appliqué, check out our tutorial. We chose to do a raw-edge appliqué.
  9. Your needle should run right along the edge of the appliqué shape. Go slowly, and remember to always stop with the needle in the down position if you need to pivot or readjust. You are stitching through the fabrics and the fusible fleece, so you should not need any additional stabilizer.

Top assembly

  1. Find the two exterior top pieces (one with the finished appliqué) and the two lining top pieces. 
  2. Place the two exterior pieces right sides together and the two lining pieces right sides together. Pin in place along the curved top edge, leave the long, straight bottom edge open. Find the top marks you made originally, which indicate the opening for the hanger. Align these dots and remember to break your seam to leave this section open. 
  3. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch both pairs together along the top curved edge, locking your seam and leaving the space between the marks open.
  4. Clip the curves, being careful to not cut through your seam. If you are new to this technique, clipping a curved seam allows it to stretch slightly so when you turn the piece right side out you have a smooth finished curve. Find out more in our Curves Tutorial

    NOTE: You will notice in the photo above that some of the appliqué stitching was done prior to adhering the fusible fleece and some was done after. This is us testing to be sure what yields the best result. As listed above, we recommend fusing the fleece into place first, then appliquéing through all the layers.
  5. Prepare the piping. If you are new to this technique, we have a good tutorial on making and attaching piping. We have summarized the steps below. 
  6. Find the 2" x 28" fabric strip. Cut the piping cord to 28" to match. Wrap the strip around the cording. The raw edges of the fabric should be perfectly aligned along the length of the entire strip. Pin in place.
    NOTE: We finished the raw edges of our piping; this is optional.
  7. Stitch in place, running your seam close to the cording. We also finished the raw edges of our piping; this is optional. 
  8. Pin the finished piping around the entire bottom perimeter of the top exterior, on the right side. The raw edges of the piping should be flush with the raw edge of the main fabric. We placed our starting/ending joint at the center back. Remember to leave a piping head and tail free to join. 
  9. At the starting/ending joint, use your seam ripper to reveal the cord. Cut the ends of the cord so they will butt together. Trim away the excess fabric, re-fold the fabric into place around the cording, and re-pin.
  10. Machine baste the piping in place on the right side of the fabric, keep your seam line as close to the cording as possible. It's easiest to simply follow along in the original piping seam. A Zipper foot allows you to get in closer to the cording. 
  11. Press the seam allowance up towards the top, so the piping now forms the bottom edge of this "hanger pocket."
  12. On the lining unit, fold up the bottom ½" all around and press.
  13. With the exterior right side out and the lining wrong side out, slip the lining inside the exterior so the two pieces are now wrong sides together. 
  14. Adjust the pieces to align the curved seams and to match up the top hanger openings. If the two layers are not laying as flat together as you'd like, trim away some the the fleece interfacing around the hanger opening. 
  15. Pin the layers together just at the top opening.
  16. Flatten the piece so you can slide it under your presser foot. 
  17. Along both sides of the opening, topstitch the exterior and lining together through all the layers, staying as close to the fold as possible. Then stitch forward and backward across each end of the opening to secure it, about three to four stitches should be enough. 
  18. It's like you are making a big buttonhole.
  19. Leave the two layers free along the bottom edge. Set aside.

Prepare the main body section with the pockets

  1. Find the two 7" x 14" pocket panels and the two 6½" x 6½" interfacing squares. 
  2. Fold a pocket panel in half so it is now 7" x 7". Press to set a center crease. Unfold wrong side up so the crease line is visible. This center fold will become the top of the pocket. If using a stripe as we did, the stripes should be running horizontally on the pockets against the vertical stripes of the main body of the stacker.
  3. Place the interfacing square on the wrong side of the pocket rectangle. Align one edge of the interfacing with the center fold and one side. This leaves ½" of fabric showing along the opposite side and the bottom. Following manufacturer's instructions, fuse the interfacing in place. Repeat for the remaining pocket.
  4. Re-fold the pockets right sides together. Orient with the stripes running horizontally so you can keep track of the top and bottom Pin along one side only, the side without interfacing in the seam allowance. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch along this side only on each pocket. 
  5. Clip the corner and turn each pocket right side out. Use a long, blunt-end tool, such as a chopstick or knitting needle, to gently push out the corner so it is nice and square. Press the pocket flat. Each pocket should have a folded top edge, a sewn side edge, an open side edge, and an open bottom edge.
  6. Find the 19" x 44" exterior panel. Place it wrong side up on your work surface, then fold the 19" sides together so they meet at the center – like a wrap-around skirt. The stripes are running vertically.
  7. Place one pocket at the bottom corner of what will become the front opening of the stacker. The raw side edge of each pocket should be flush with the raw side of the opening, and the raw bottom edge of each pocket should be flush with the raw bottom of the fabric. The folded edge of each pocket is the pocket top and the finished (seamed) side is the outer edge of each pocket. Pin the pockets in place. 
    NOTE: Remember, you are just pining and stitching the pocket to just the front layer of the exterior fabric. You folded your exterior piece in order to figure out the correct placement, but you don't sew through both layers.
  8. Topstitch along the outer edge only of each pocket. Run your seam as close to the edge of the pocket as possible. 
  9. Find the two 2" x 19" binding strips. To create the binding, fold the strip in half (so it now measures 1" x 19") and press to set a center crease. Unfold wrong side up so the crease line is visible. Fold in each long raw edge so they meet in the middle at the crease and press. Then refold along the original center crease. The photo below shows one plain strip and the pressed folds as described.
  10. Find the 19" x 44" exterior (with the pockets in place) and lining panels. As mentioned above in the Getting Started section, if your fabric is very lightweight, adhere 4" wide interfacing strips to the 19" sides on the wrong side of the exterior panel. We did not use interfacing.
  11. Place the two panels WRONG sides together, aligning all four sides. Machine baste around all four sides, staying within the ½" seam allowance.
  12. Slip the binding over the 19" sides of the basted-together panels, encasing the raw edges of the layers within the binding. Pin in place. 
  13. Edgestitch the binding in place. Go slowly, insuring your seam line stays straight and you catch both the front and back of the binding all along both 19" lengths. 
  14. Re-fold the exterior, aligning the bound edges so they are in the exact center of the folded panel. Make a small snip at the top center back and bottom center back, exactly opposite where the bound edges come together in the front. Do not cut deep; these are just for marking purposes – you don't want to cut below what will be your ½" seam allowance.
  15. Measure 6½" to the left of center front and 6½" to the right of center front. Mark both points with a pin. This is the finished width of the stacker. 
  16. Make a 4½" pleat on each side. To so this, simply bring in each side fold towards the center until the distance from the side to the inner point of the fold is 4½". Pin to securely hold the pleats in place.
     
  17. When both pleats are in place, the top edge should measure 13" across and all the top raw edges should be flush. Machine baste across the top, within the ½" seam allowance, through all the layers. This seals the top of the stacker. 

Insert the base

  1. Find the 10" x 14" base piece and the 9" x 13" interfacing piece. Place the interfacing on the wrong side of the fabric, centering it so there is ½" of fabric showing all around. Following manufacturer's instructions, fuse in place. 
  2. Fold the base in half (so it is now 10" x 7½") and mark the center points at the end of the fold. These marks indicate the center front and center back of the base. 
  3. Turn the main body of the stacker wrong side out. Align the center front mark on the base with the center point of the bound front edges of the stacker. Align the center back mark on the base with the notch you cut earlier marking the center back of the stacker. Pin the base to the stacker right sides together along the front and the back. 
  4. Carefully clip into the seam allowance at the corners to allow the stacker to flatten, then pin the sides of the base to the sides of the stacker. 
  5. The base should fit evenly and flat all around. Make sure it is sitting straight.
  6. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch all around. Stop and pivot at each corner. Keep the needle in the down position, readjusting the stacker in order to stitch each side. This seam also secures the bottom of the pockets.
  7. Turn the stacker right side out through the front bound opening.

Attach the top to the body

  1. Place the completed top right sides together with the seamed top of the body. The right side of the appliqué should be laying against the front bound opening of the body. 
  2. Push the lining up and away. Align ONLY THE FRONT of the top with the pleated top of the stacker. Pin straight across, from seam-to-seam on the top and all the way across the stacker. The back of the top should remain free of the seam as should the top lining. 
  3. Stitch straight across the top of the stacker, using a ½" seam allowance. We suggest repeating this seam for extra security. 
  4. Press the seam allowance up towards the top and bring the lining down into place so it covers the seam allowance.
  5. Adjust the lining so it hangs flat and is smooth and lightly pin. Find the exact center at the back to position the two pieces of Velcro®.
  6. Pull the lining away and stitch one half of the Velcro to either side of the lining, on the right side of the lining.

    NOTE: You could stitch the Velcro® to the lining when first constructing the lining, but we wanted to confirm the placement on the finished piece to insure the closure was as flat as possible. 
  7. Replace the lining so it covers the seam allowance all around and pin in place. The folded edge of the lining should sit right along the piping. If it isn't a perfect fit, adjust the fold as needed.
  8. Hand stitch the lining to the top. 

Bottom insert panel

  1. Find the remaining 28" x 10" lining piece and the plastic canvas.
  2. Fold the lining in half (so it is now 14" x 10") and pin along both 14" sides. 
  3. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch the two sides, creating a pocket.
  4. Turn the pocket right side out. Fold in the top raw edge of the opening 1" and press well. The pocket now measures 13" x 9".
  5. Slip in the plastic canvas. 
  6. Topstitch the top opening, running the seam close to the edge.
  7. Place the insert panel into the stacker, pressing it down into place so it covers the seam allowances of the base and creates a flat platform on which to stack the diapers. 

Contributors

Project Design: Alicia Thommas  
Sample Creation and Instructional Outline: Kathy Andrews, What Sew Ever

Some of the materials featured here or used in this project were provided free of charge by Fabric.com. All opinions are our own.

Tags: 

Section: 

Comments (2)

JaneEyre4 said:
JaneEyre4's picture

Wonderful project. With the baby coming in two weeks this will be great for my nursery. Thanks for the tutorial. :)

Sewandsewon said:
Sewandsewon's picture

I am going to make this.  NOT for diapers, but for my towels.  I have no place in the little bathroom for towels, so I will make this and hang them up on the wall rail.  great idea thanks.

Add new comment

*Sew4Home reserves the right to restrict comments that don’t relate to the article, contain profanity, personal attacks or promote personal or other business.
By submitting this form, you accept the Mollom privacy policy.