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Ruffled-End Table Runner for the Holidays or Any Day

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When browsing for great fabric for a seasonal table runner, we kept returning to the home décor category because of the bold designs and striking colors you can find there. These traditionally heavier fabrics are where most people turn for larger projects, such as curtain panels or upholstered items, so the motifs tend to be bigger and the tones more dramatic. Not only is it beautiful fabric, it's also often thicker, tougher, and more durable. Batting is usually necessary with runners made of standard cottons in order to protect the tabletop from hot or wet dishes. But with this fabric, two simple layers provided plenty of protection... unless, of course, you plan on serving sizzling fajitas at the table for your holiday dinner!

To figure the correct length to fit your table and the yardage needed, measure the table then add 6" - 8" for a 3" - 4" drop at each end; the ruffles will add another 10" to each drop. Our table was 64" in length. To that we added 8" for a 4" drop on each end. The seam allowances will take up a minimal amount so don't stress about that in your figuring.

You're not quite done yet, because the centering of your fabric's motif is essential to this design. If our sample, we needed 72" of yardage PLUS the measurement of ONE motif repeat. If you shop online, look for a ruler next to the fabric swatch so you can easily figure the motif size. If shopping in store, bring a mini tape measure with you. Our motif was approximately 12". So, we needed 72" + 12" or 84". We rounded up a bit and went with 2⅜ yards (85½"). Most home décor fabrics are quite wide (ours was 54"), so width will not be a problem when cutting your two long rectangles. You'll even have fabric left over for other projects... yay!

To soften the overall scene, and because you know how we love to mix our textures, we added deep double ruffles to each end of the runner in a featherweight washer linen blend (55% linen with 45" rayon). This is an elegant accent, and the linen is so soft, even if it drops down near the lap of a dinner guest, it's no more noticeable than a tablecloth would be hanging at that angle. 

Our runner finishes at approximately 18" wide x 92" long (72" runner plus 10" ruffles on each end).

Sewing Tools You Need

Fabric and Other Supplies


Above are our original sample fabrics. Below are some alternate selections available at Fabric.com in the same bright red theme.
      

  • 2⅜ yards of 45"+ medium-weight home décor fabric; see the introdcution above to figure the length for your table
  • 1 yard of 45"+ lightweight linen in a coordinating color
  • 1¼ yards of ¾" wide coordinating velvet ribbon
  • All purpose thread to match fabric and ribbon
  • See-through ruler
  • Fabric pen or pencil
  • Seam gauge
  • Seam ripper
  • Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
  • Iron and ironing board
  • Straight pins

Getting Started

NOTE: As mentioned above, the designer look of this runner is dependent on a careful fussy cut of a big, bold motif. 

  1. From the main fabric, fussy cut TWO 19" wide x 72" long panels (adjust this measurement as needed for your table; notes on how to do this are listed above in the introduction). The motifs should be centered and evenly spaced along the length of the runner.
  2. From the linen blend, cut the following:
    TWO 27" wide x 11" high rectangles
    TWO 27" wide x 7" high rectangles
  3. Cut the ribbon into TWO 19" lengths.

At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board

Ribbon

  1. Place one of the 19" x 72" panels right side up and flat on your work surface. 
  2. Pin one length of velvet ribbon across each end of the runner panel, positioning the ribbon ½" up from each raw edge. 
  3. Thread the machine with thread to match the ribbon in the top and bobbin. Edgestitch along both sides of the ribbon on each end of the runner.

Ruffles

  1. Find the four ruffle rectangles.
  2. Make a narrow hem along one 27" side of each rectangle. To do this, fold under the raw edge ⅛" and press well. 
  3. Then fold an additional ⅛" and press again, concealing the raw edge within the folds.
    NOTE: As mentioned above in the the Supply List, if you have a Rolled Hem foot, you could also use it to make this tiny hem. Check out our tutorial on how to create Rolled Hems by Machine.
  4. Repeat to fold narrow hems along the sides of all the ruffle rectangles. 
  5. Edgestitch the folded hems in place. To do this on very lightweight fabric, it's helpful to use a scrap of fabric as a starter piece. Place a small folded scrap of fabric under the foot and sew across. Stop towards the end of the scrap, but do not remove it from under the presser foot.
  6. Find the first of the ruffle pieces and butt its narrow hem against the starter scrap of fabric. Continue stitching from the scrap across to the main fabric. The scrap of fabric allows you to gently pull the fabric until the feed dogs have a chance to grab it. 
  7. Add the next ruffle piece as you approach the end of the first piece. Continue in this manner until all hems are edgestitched. You should end up with four rectangles, each hemmed on three sides.
    NOTE: Some heavier fabrics may require a little bit wider hem, but the beautiful washer linen we chose allows for a very tiny hem. 
  8. Place the two wider ruffle strips right side up and flat on your work surface. Place a narrow ruffle on top of each wide ruffle, also right side up. Align the top raw edges and hemmed side edges. Pin in place along the top edges of each pair.
  9. With a long stitch length, run two lines of machine basting along the top edge of each ruffle pair. Keep both basting seams within the ½" seam allowance. 

    NOTE: If you are new to gathering, take a look at our Machine Gathering tutorial

Final assembly

  1. Place the ribbon-trimmed runner panel and the plain runner panel right sides together. Align all the raw edges of the two layers. Pin along both long sides, leaving a 5" opening on one side. Both ends are open. 
  2. Using a ½" seam, sew each long side. Remember to lock your seam at either side of the 5" opening on one side. 
  3. Press the seams open. 
  4. Press back the raw edges of the opening so they are flush with sewn seam.
  5. Pull the basting threads of one double ruffle so it matches the width of the sewn table runner. 
  6. With the runner still wrong side out, open up one end. Place the ruffle over the ribbon-trim. The shorter ruffle should be facing right side down against the ribbon. Pin in place, evenly distributing the gathers. The raw edges of the ruffle should be flush with the raw edge of the runner. The hemmed sides of the ruffled should be aligned with the runner's side seams. 
  7. Place the back of the runner down into place, covering the ruffle. Pin through all the layers. 
  8. At each side, fold the seam allowances back so they wrap the end of the ruffle. 
  9. Stitch across the end. Sew with the ribbon-trimmed side facing up, so you can see the previous ribbon stitching lines. The new stitching line should be ⅛" to the right of the previous ribbon stitching to ensure the ribbon is not caught in the seam. This means it will be just ⅛" narrower than a traditional ½" seam.
  10. Trim the seam allowance back to ¼". 
  11. Repeat to insert the remaining double ruffle at the opposite end.
  12. Turn the table runner right side out through that 5" opening in the one long side. 
  13. Pin the opening so the two folded edges are flush.
  14. Edgestitch along each long side of the table runner. 
  15. Then stitch across each end, running the seam just to the inside (just to the left) of the velvet ribbon.

Contributors

Project Design: Alicia Thommas 
Sample Creation and Instructional Outline: Michele Mishler

Section: 

Comments (4)

stitchappy said:
stitchappy's picture

I have a gathering foot that will allow me to gather and sew the layers onto the main simultaneously.  Do you have any tips for me, or should I avoid trying this method?

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@stitchappy - I know the type of foot you're describing. Because these ruffled ends are a unit that needs to be precisely inserted between layers and then stitched in place through all the layers - the foot you're describing isn't really the right choice for this particular project. 

April Cain said:
April Cain's picture

Love this, great colors and directions as always!!!

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@April - Thank you so much! Let us know if you give it a go!

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