mc9900 launch leaderboard

Facebook Twitter Sew4Home RSS Feed Follow Me on Pinterest

Sew4Home

Machine Sewing: Selecting the Right Needle for the Job

Printer-friendly versionSend by emailPDF version

Click to Read MoreIt's not as bad as searching through the proverbial haystack, but choosing the correct needle for your sewing project can be a little overwhelming. They all look pretty much the same unless you pull out the magnifying glass. But, different needles DO have different tips, eyes, shanks, groves and shafts; and what you select can make a big difference in how well your machine sews through your fabric.

Needle Sizes

What the heck are those random numbers? The first thing you see on a needle package is the needle size. This will be shown as one number over another, such as: 70/10, 80/12 or 90/14. These numbers refer to the size of the needle.

There are two numbers because one is the American numbering system and one the European. The American system uses 8 to 19; 8 is a fine, thin needle and 19 is a thick, heavy needle. European sizes range from 60 to 120, 60 is a fine, thin needle and 120 is a thick, heavy needle. Some companies list American first, some list European first.

Here's the rule: the lower the number the finer the needle and the smaller the eye

For example, if you are going to sew a sheer window curtain, you would want a fine needle such as 60/8. Using a 120/19 would leave giant holes in your fabric. On the other hand, if you were to try and sew through upholstery fabric with a 60/8 needle, it would bend or break. Using a 120/19 would give you strength to penetrate your heavy dec fabric and would have an eye large enough to carry the thicker thread you'll need to use.

Test first on a scrap!

When it comes right down to it, a needle can do as much damage to your fabric as a pair of scissors. Always test your needle with the actual thread you've chosen on a scrap of the actual fabric you'll be using for your project.

Needle Types

Click to EnlargeOnce you have the size figured out, next you'll have to choose the TYPE of needle you want. As with any tool, you have general options and specialty options.

For the majority of home decor projects, go for the Universal needle. It works well for most woven fabrics, knits and synthetics.

Other home decor needle options:

  • Jeans: has a sharp, strong point for denim, canvas and other tightly woven fabrics. 
  • Leather: has a chisel point for genuine leather only.
  • Sharps: good for silks and micro-fibers.
  • Metallic: if you are topstitching or embellishing with specialty threads, this needle has a larger eye to allow the thread to flow through without fraying and breaking.
Click to Enlarge Click to Enlarge

As you become more advanced, you can investigate other unique needle options, like stretch, twin, triple and wing.

Your needle is a very important part of your project. I think of it this way: a good needle in your sewing room is like a good knife in your kitchen.

Section: 

Comments (6)

lsmithy said:
lsmithy's picture

my thread twists alot before it has even passed through the thread guide. it doesnt seem to matter want type of thread i use but metalic thread seems to be the biggest problem. I also need to stop sewing after several stiches to manually loose the top thread near the take up lever. if i loosen the tension it will then knot up the underside of my sewing. Is this a wrong needle, wrong fabric,wrong thread problem???

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture

@ Ismithy - trouble-shooting specific machine issues long distance isn't a great idea. It sounds like you have some tension issues baesd on where the thread is breaking. It sounds like it's time for a professional to take a look. A reputable sewing machine dealer should give you a repair estimate at little to no charge.

Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture
@ Mimihu - Machine problems are very tough to diagnose long distance since each brand and model can have its own little quirks, and I certainly don't consider myself a machine repair expert. A good needle can be an issue but it is usually more a problem with the needle being dull rather than being the wrong size. Trying a new Universal needle in a standard size is always a good first step. The next is to rethread both the top and the bobbin. Even the most experienced sewer can can make a threading mistake. After that, I'd recommend taking it to your local dealer for a look-see.
Mimihu said:
Mimihu's picture
hi. Just got my first machine. Was trying it out but my stitches looked funny- was doing straight stitch but each stitch looked slightly diagonal . Tried the tension but it didnt do anything .Someone said it might be the needle- is it too big or too small?
Ginkgo biloba said:
Ginkgo biloba's picture
Sorry but there is another error with this pdf file...
mine said:
mine's picture
A couple of other pointers: You SHOULD change your needle for a fresh one after every major project to keep your machine running optimally. Also, I have used titanium needles and they work really well for me ( I guess I can be a little rough with the needles).

Add new comment

*Sew4Home reserves the right to restrict comments that don’t relate to the article, contain profanity, personal attacks or promote personal or other business.
By submitting this form, you accept the Mollom privacy policy.