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S4H's Top Tips & Techniques: #3 Attaching Metal Snaps

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Snaps - they're easier to use than buttons and more durable than Velcro. So why don't more people use them? Because they are scared to death of that giant plier thingy you gotta use to attach them. S4H to the rescue! We make it easy to understand, holding your hand every step of the way so you won't be frightened. The first time we ran this tutorial, the comments flooded in, thanking us for finally making this very handy tool understandable. Snap it up!

Installing snaps is pretty simple. You just take a series of tiny metal rings (which can be set up twenty wrong ways and only one right way) line them up within a millimeter of perfection, and then crush the whole assemblage together as hard as you can through several layers of fabric. What could possibly go wrong?

Well, as you might imagine, plenty can go wrong. Take a look at some of the online forums for tales of woe, tragedy, anguish and regret. But billions of snaps are successfully installed each year, and by taking a few precautions, you too can do it!.

Choosing your tools

Industrial Snap Press

If you're going to be installing snaps 24/7 and have about $100 to spend, you should get a small industrial snap press. It looks something like a heavy duty stapler with an arm to give you extra leverage. You get good crushing force and perfect alignment.

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SnapSetter® And Other Hammer-Driven Tools

The 'old school' way of installing snaps was with a wooden spool, a hammer, and a very sturdy surface. SnapSource® has refined this technique with an affordable tool called the SnapSetter® that makes it simple to align your snap parts and only requires moderate tapping with a small hammer.

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Dritz® Plier-Style Snap Tool

This is the tool that's readily available at most fabric stores and the one we're using for the following instructions. You squeeze the handles to embed the two halves of each snap part. It's available almost everywhere; we found ours at Amazon.

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We found an online retailer called Buttoncare, who had a very good selection of snaps and tools.

Preparing your fabric

Your snaps will not install properly if your fabric is too thin. As you'll see below, part of each snap is a metal ring with little spikes on it. These spikes penetrate your fabric and then are jammed into a groove on the other part of the snap. If your fabric isn't thick enough (or layered enough times), the spikes don't penetrate evenly and your snap doesn't look right.

You can use lightweight fabric, but you must add a layer of interfacing, both for thickness and to keep the little spikes from tearing holes around the snap.

For our example, we chose a medium-weight, cotton fabric. We used two layers – a single piece folded once and ironed flat.

The parts of a snap

A complete snap has four parts: the ball, the socket, and the two rings with spikes that attach them to the fabric. A decorative snap would have one solid back piece instead of a ring, like the pearl snaps on a cowboy shirt.

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Marking your fabric

Think through exactly where you want the ball and the socket parts on your project. Traditionally, the back of the socket will on the front of your project. Using a fabric pen or pencil, mark where you want the CENTER of each part of the snap. Make these centering marks on both the front and back of your fabric.

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Setting up the Dritz® pliers

Your pliers have a round metal holder on one side, and on the other side, a yellow plastic wheel with both a round plastic holder and a metal punch. The metal punch is for eyelets, so for snaps, make sure the plastic holder is opposite the other side's metal holder. There's a yellow wheel you lift and turn to position the punch/plastic holder.

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Your pliers should come with two little rubber rings. Slide a rubber ring over each of the holders (the metal holder on one side and the plastic holder on the other side). Make sure each ring is pushed all the way on.

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Installing the snap socket

  1. Take one of your rings with prongs on it and insert it into the yellow plastic holder with the prongs poking out. Make sure it's pushed all the way in and is sitting evenly in the holder.
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  2. Pick up the snap socket and determine which side is raised. You can feel it with your finger. Or if you hold it sideways and squint you can see that one side protrudes a little more.
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  3. Insert the socket, with the protruding side OUT, into the metal holder.
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  4. You're just about ready to squish this half of the snap into place. Check your two snap parts one last time to make sure they're all the way into their respective holders and sitting evenly.
  5. Hold your pliers so the ring with the prongs (in the yellow plastic holder) is facing over what will be the outside of your project. Then position the pliers so that mark you made on your fabric earlier is in the center of snap.
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  6. Holding your pliers level, squeeze firmly. I mean... really firmly. Then open up the pliers and see how you did. The ring should be evenly pressed down all the way around
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    NOTE: If the ring isn't perfectly flat all the way around, you can use a pair of regular pliers to gently 'persuade' it. Squeezing the ring with pliers can scuff the shiny finish. So if you do this, put a piece of fabric between the plier jaws and the ring to protect it.

Installing the snap ball

  1. Take your remaining ring with the prongs on it, and insert it, prongs poking up, into the metal holder on the pliers.
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  2. Take the ball part of the snap and insert it, with the ball facing downwards, into the yellow plastic holder. Again, make sure both pieces are all the way inserted and sitting evenly.
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  3. Find where you marked your fabric for this half of the snap. Remember, you want the ball part of the snap to meet the socket part of the snap you just installed. This is the part where you have to stop and think. The ball is facing down into the holder. You have to position your fabric so the ball will be facing up when it's installed. That means, if you put your snap parts in the right holders, the yellow plastic holder will be on top.
    NOTE: This is a bit of a brain teaser, because all of the other parts of the ball installation are opposite of what you did for the socket installation. Except, just like with the socket, your final plier position is with the yellow side of the pliers over your fabric. It's okay... this is correct.
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  4. Center the pliers over your mark. Firmly squeeze the handles. Then release them, and see how you did.
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Practice first

With snaps, it's rare to get perfect results the first time. Make sure you have extra snaps in the size you'll be using for your project. Take a scrap of your project fabric, fold it and add interfacing just like you would for your project. Then practice putting in the ball and socket parts of the snaps. After you've successfully installed a few on your scrap, go ahead and install them on your actual project.

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Comments (17)

judyl1948 said:
judyl1948's picture
I make western shirts with pearl snaps all the time. I always have problems with the snaps. I just realized I'm not using the little rubber holders. I wonder where they are?LOL They would make my life much easier. I may have to purchase a new set of pliers to have the rubber rings. Thanks for all the wonderful information.
olorias said:
Thank you - this is just what I needed to finish a project!! smilies/smiley.gif
Marysewfun said:
Marysewfun's picture
Thbis is great - thank you. I used to use snaps (the fancy kind like for western wear) but the last time (years ago) I tried them, I broke a bunch of the tops so it kind of scared/shyed me away from trying them again. Thank you, I'll try again.
amy21 said:
amy21's picture
THANK YOU!! This is so much better than sewn-on snaps. No way I have the confidence to attempt this without your tutorial. smilies/smiley.gif
phoebegrant said:
phoebegrant's picture
For Laura S and all - I have known some stitchers to machine 'darn' a little patch on the thicker fabrics to flatten them where the snap will go. Try on some scraps first, please!
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture
Hi Laura S -- Terry cloth can have quite a bit of loft; you are likely to need a larger size snap. Unfortunately, I couldn't find any sort of "official" table that showed which snap to use with which fabric. I'd suggest getting some larger snaps (see my post above to @psquared52 about sizes) and testing first with some terry scraps. Also, maybe you could try the Snapsetter - you can get more power with a hammer that you can squeezing with one hand.
Laura S. said:
Laura S.'s picture
This is a great tutorial -- I have been very frustrated by the instructions on the back of my snap setter for ages!

Questoin: I have made cotton baby bibs with a flannel back and used this method with no problems. However, on a recent project, I used a thicker terry cloth backing and I can't get the snaps to set -- no matter how hard I press.

Is there a certain thickness of fabric that makes snaps no longer practical? Or is the problem that my snaps are not "heavy duty" enough?
Sally G said:
Sally G's picture
This would make attaching snaps for the dolly clothing I make way easier. I am just a little nervous when it comes to new tools and stuff.
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home said:
Liz Johnson.Editor.Sew4Home's picture
Hi psquared52 -- The SnapSetter tools we reference above do come in different sizes. The Dritz tool, which is what the tutorial detail shows, applies a variety of snaps -- if you click on that picture above to enlarge it, you can read all the types of snaps it will apply: #15, #16, #17, #19, #25 and #34 snaps. Also #24-3 and #30-1 snaps and #104 eyelets. So, it will cover the majority of snaps you need. The do make a heavy duty plier set if you want to do the super heavy duty Western snaps. In general, the smaller the number - the lighter the weight of fabric the snap is for. Sizes 15 and 16 are probably the most common. There is a #14 snap, which is good for very lightweight fabrics, like a single knit. For that, I know SnapSetter offers a Size 14 tool.
carola said:
carola's picture
TYhanks this is great. Have done snaps before but this reassures each step. I printed and put in my sewing workbook. Thanks again.
psquared52 said:
psquared52's picture
Can you shed a little light on the sizing of the snaps? Does one snap setter work for a variety of size snaps? Appreciate the tutorial. I've been interested for awhile but not sure how they work. Thanks!
laceylady said:
laceylady's picture
I used your tutorial and thought I did something wrong because I couldnt get the 2 parts to actually snap together. So I gently used the pliers to get them together and it totally worked. Turns out I just needed to break in the snap.
Thanks for the tutorial!
wordygirl said:
wordygirl's picture
I LOVE your tutorials. Thanks so much. I just saw one of those plier sets--the next time I get a 40% off coupon I'll splurge.
manybooks said:
manybooks's picture
Really? They'er that easy? Hmmmm.... what could I make and use some snaps. The pliers and some snaps are going on my shopping list!
joyce liou said:
joyce liou's picture
They should have mentioned that both yellow rubber rings are indispensable in their instrution package! I thought one of them is spare and forgot where I stored it. Now that I have S4H excellent tutorial I have to find the one I lostsmilies/sad.gif
AmySews said:
AmySews's picture
This is just what I needed! My grandmother gave me a set of the pliers and all the snaps! I had no idea how to use them! Thank you so much!!
marysza said:
marysza's picture
omg i love it;o i was looking for a thing like that for a looooon time;o

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